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At the centre of it is the Gerewol. Young Wodaabe men whiten their teeth and eyes, paint their faces deep ochre and dance for hours to be judged the most beautiful — by the women, who walk the line and choose. You sleep out in the open, hundreds of kilometres from the nearest electric light. Northern Niger sits under do-not-travel warnings, and you travel here only with a military escort arranged in Agadez. At Dabous, on the western edge of the massif, one outcrop carries two giraffes carved almost life-size, the larger 5.4 metres from hoof to head. They were cut six to eight thousand years ago, when this was grassland with herds on it. 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From up here the Aïr reads as the stone island it is, ringed by flat sand on every side.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F315\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":197},"Cross the Aïr by camel with a Tuareg guide","Ride between hidden gueltas and palm-filled valleys with the nomads who have read this desert for centuries, watering at the same rock pools their salt caravans have always used. As the rains end, thousands of Tuareg and Wodaabe converge near In-Gall for the Cure Salée, the year's great nomad gathering of camel parades, races, songs and the Gerewol courtship dance.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F315\u002Fe2.webp","Sani Maikatanga \u002F Pexels",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":202},"Walk Agadez and its mud-brick minaret","Wander the old caravan city at the foot of the mountains, where a 16th-century mosque raises the world's tallest mud-brick minaret over a maze of earthen houses and narrow lanes.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F315\u002Fe4.webp","mg shotz \u002F Pexels",{"title":204,"description":205,"imageUrl":206,"attribution":207},"Watch the Milky Way from the open desert","Bed down far from any village and let the sky fill: with zero light pollution the Milky Way arches overhead bright enough to cast a faint shadow, and shooting stars streak the dark.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F315\u002Fe5.webp","Furknsaglam \u002F Pexels",{"title":209,"description":210,"imageUrl":211,"attribution":212},"Find the Dabous giraffes carved in stone","Trek to a lone sandstone outcrop on the massif's edge to stand before two life-size giraffes carved into the rock thousands of years ago, back when this stretch of Sahara was green savanna grazed by real herds.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F315\u002Fe-4110.webp","Albert Backer \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons",[214,219,224],{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":156},"geology","Rings of a dead volcano","Some of the Aïr's near-perfect circular ridges are the roots of ancient volcanoes, laid bare after the cones above them wore away.","When a magma chamber empties, the ground above can sink and crack in a ring, and fresh magma rises to fill the gap; erosion later strips away everything softer, leaving a raised circle of hard rock. The Meugueur-Meugueur structure in the Aïr, about 60 kilometres across, ranks among the largest ring dikes on Earth.",{"boxType":220,"title":221,"body":222,"deepBody":223,"sourceNote":156},"history","Giraffes on green-Sahara stone","The Aïr's best-known carving shows two giraffes almost life-size, pecked and polished into sandstone by people who once watched real ones graze here.","The larger giraffe stands about 5.4 metres tall, linked by an engraved cord to a small human figure, and was cut six to eight thousand years ago, when a wetter Sahara held grass, lakes and grazing herds. It is one of more than eight hundred engravings — cattle, ostriches, lions, even rhinoceros — left on the rocks around it.",{"boxType":225,"title":226,"body":227,"deepBody":228,"sourceNote":156},"culture","The dance where men are judged","At the Cure Salée gathering, young Wodaabe men spend hours on makeup and costume, then line up to be judged the most beautiful — by the women.","In the Gerewol, men whiten their teeth and eyes, paint their faces deep ochre, and dance for hours in the heat, rolling their eyes and flashing smiles to show off health and charm. The young women walk the line and choose; a favoured man may be taken as a husband or a lover.",[230,235,241,246,251],{"phenomenon":231,"peakMonths":232,"note":233,"requiresDarkSky":234,"sortOrder":90},"milkyway",[163,130,90,95],"With no electric light for hundreds of kilometres, the Milky Way stands out to the naked eye over the granite spires, best in the cool dry season.",true,{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":237,"note":238,"requiresDarkSky":239,"sortOrder":240},"chapter_peak",[90,95,163,130],"The only comfortable window: days ease into the high-20s and low-30s°C while nights turn cold, near freezing on the 2,000-metre plateaux, and the light-free desert hands you a naked-eye Milky Way, though harmattan dust can veil the horizon.",false,50,{"phenomenon":242,"peakMonths":243,"note":244,"requiresDarkSky":239,"sortOrder":245},"chapter_quiet",[100,105,110,115,120,125],"The hot half. Heat peaks near 42°C in May and June, the fiercest and driest weeks of the year, when the desert rock pools called gueltas shrink to their lowest. The July and August rains ease the heat only slightly as humidity climbs, tracks wash out, and the dry riverbeds, the wadis, just begin to green.",51,{"phenomenon":247,"peakMonths":248,"note":249,"requiresDarkSky":239,"sortOrder":250},"chapter_edge",[161,162],"The massif's greenest, most alive weeks: filled gueltas and flowing wadis, and as the rains end the Cure Salée and Wodaabe Gerewol gather nomads at nearby In-Gall, usually late September, the rains setting the date. October clears the air and eases the heat.",52,{"phenomenon":252,"peakMonths":253,"note":254,"requiresDarkSky":239,"sortOrder":255},"baseline",[],"The granite spires, palm-fringed rock pools and ancient rock engravings are here year-round; the cool dry season is mildest, and visiting the region requires a military 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