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Atacama Desert

Atacama Desert

DesertsChileAntofagasta,Chile

The driest desert outside the poles, in northern Chile, with skies so clear the great observatories sit here and the Milky Way casts a shadow.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Dec

Spring into early summer stays dry and clear. Days warm toward 25°C by December and nights are calm and full of stars, though the galactic core sinks low and is again visible only before dawn. In rare wet years the far-southern desert blooms from September to November.



Year-round The salt flats, moonscapes, high-plateau lagoons and El Tatio's geysers stand all year under some of Earth's darkest skies. The air is clearest in the dry cold of winter, and summer storms over the high plateau cloud the sky over.

The Atacama is the driest desert outside the poles, a strip of northern Chile where some weather stations have never recorded rain. Three things keep it that way: the Andes block wet air from the Amazon, the cold Humboldt Current chills the Pacific so little rises off it, and a fixed high-pressure zone caps the sky. Everything here follows from that. Most visits run from San Pedro de Atacama, an adobe village at 2,400 metres. West of it the Valle de la Luna is a badland of salt and clay the wind has cut into ridges, with no rain to soften them. If you are on a crest there in the evening, the ground goes orange, then purple, then black, and the cooling salt crust crackles as it contracts. From a balloon at dawn those walls are one buckled fold of salt, more than a hundred kilometres long. Before first light you drive up to El Tatio, a geyser field at 4,320 metres, where around eighty geysers push steam into the freezing air as the sun comes up and shrink as the ground warms. South-east of the village the desert turns to colour. At Piedras Rojas, rock stained crimson with iron runs to the edge of a turquoise salt lagoon, high enough that you feel the thin air as part of the visit. At Laguna Chaxa all three Andean flamingo species feed on the same salt crust, and the brine they filter is what turns their feathers pink. After dark the dryness pays out again. A guide's telescope finds Saturn's rings, and on a moonless night the Milky Way throws a faint shadow at your feet; the observatories on the hills are here for the same air. The soil is dead enough that NASA drills rovers two metres into it to rehearse the search for life on Mars. One thing does come in off the sea: a night fog called the camanchaca, and the cacti and lichens on the coastal hills drink it because nothing else arrives.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Pick a new-moon night for stargazing — with no moon to wash out the sky, the Milky Way's bright core stands out, riding highest on the cold, clear nights of southern winter.
  • Give yourself a day to acclimatize — El Tatio and the altiplano lagoons top 4,000 metres, so settle into San Pedro at 2,400 metres first and move slowly up high.
  • Bring sandals and a towel for the salt lagoons — you float effortlessly in water saltier than the sea, but the crust cuts bare feet and there is nowhere to rinse the brine off.
  • Come in the dry winter, roughly May to September, for the steadiest, clearest skies; after rare rains the desert can erupt into a wildflower bloom around September to November.

Things to do

  1. 1

    See Valle de la Luna shift from orange to purple

    See Valle de la Luna shift from orange to purple

    Hike a salt-and-clay ridge in the Valle de la Luna, west of San Pedro, as the low sun turns the wind-carved badlands from orange to deep purple and finally black. In the cooling evening the salt crust sometimes crackles faintly as it contracts.

  2. 2

    Catch the dawn at El Tatio geysers

    Catch the dawn at El Tatio geysers

    Set out in the dark to reach El Tatio at 4,320 metres (14,170 ft). As the first light hits, some 80 geysers billow columns of steam into the freezing air, then shrink as the ground warms. It is the largest geyser field in the southern hemisphere.

  3. 3

    See the crimson rocks of Piedras Rojas

    See the crimson rocks of Piedras Rojas

    Walk the short path between the water and the outcrops at Piedras Rojas, where rock stained crimson by iron oxide runs straight up to a turquoise salt lagoon. The site sits on the altiplano south-east of San Pedro at over 4,000 metres, high enough that the thin air and the cold are part of the visit.

  4. 4

    Tell the three flamingos apart at Laguna Chaxa

    Tell the three flamingos apart at Laguna Chaxa

    Laguna Chaxa, in the Soncor sector of the Los Flamencos reserve, is where all three Andean flamingo species feed on the same salt crust. Sort them by the legs: grey with pink joints is the Chilean, plain yellow is the Andean, brick red is James's, the smallest and palest of the three. All of them filter the brine for microscopic life, which is also what turns their feathers pink.

  5. 5

    Watch the Milky Way cast a shadow

    Watch the Milky Way cast a shadow

    Under some of the darkest skies on Earth, a guide swings a telescope onto Saturn's rings while the Milky Way arches overhead so brightly it throws a faint shadow at your feet. On a moonless night the galactic core glows over the desert like a second, softer dawn.

  6. 6

    Trace the Cordillera de la Sal from a balloon basket

    Trace the Cordillera de la Sal from a balloon basket

    From the air the ridges of Valle de la Luna stop being separate walls: they are one buckled salt fold running more than 100 kilometres. Balloons leave the salt flat twenty minutes out of San Pedro and stay up about an hour, Licancabur reddening on the eastern skyline.

Watch

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