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Black River Gorges National Park

Black River Gorges National Park

ForestsMauritiusBlack River,Mauritius

The last of Mauritius's native forest, folded into ravines that held the world's rarest bird when four kestrels were left alive.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Oct

The park at its most itself: cool, dry plateau air, the clearest rim views at first light, and all sixty kilometres of trail firm underfoot. October is the driest month; from late September the echo parakeets grow loud as breeding takes over the canopy.



Year-round The gorges, native forest and nine endemic birds hold these slopes every month. What shifts with the season is the falls' flow, the guava, the parakeets' clamour and the rim views' clarity.

The entire Mauritius kestrel population was once four birds, hunting over these ravines in the island's southwest, and four cannot rebuild a species — so Carl Jones's team borrowed a trick from falconry. They lifted the first clutch from a wild nest and hatched it in incubators. Robbed of those eggs, the pair laid again and raised the replacement themselves — twice what a season should give. The hand-reared young went back into the gorges, and later pairs nested in boxes on the cliffs. The same arithmetic was run again for the pink pigeon. Nine endemic birds hold these slopes. On the upland trails they reach you as sound first: the deep call of a pigeon, or the harsh ripping screech of an echo parakeet, a parrot once down to fewer than twenty birds. Barely two per cent of the native forest of Mauritius is still standing, almost all of it here: low, wind-clipped, often inside cloud. From the Pétrin entrance a few minutes on foot put you at the first lookouts, where ravine after forested ravine folds toward the coast and the flat-topped basalt block of Le Morne closes the view. By early afternoon grey cloud shuts the drop off, so the rim is a dawn matter. Below the rim the trails take you down into humid forest, to a wall of stripped basalt with water coming over the lip — in winter a thread the wind pulls sideways, after summer rain a loud white curtain. A short steep path reaches 828 metres, a modest lump of rock from which you take in the whole island. And here the method runs out. Chinese guava grows into thickets so dense that no native seedling gets light beneath them. From April families drive up to Plaine Champagne and strip the fruit into buckets — the one weed anyone is encouraged to take. Inside the fenced plots the rangers pull it out by hand and the seedlings come back. Outside them the macaques, the pigs and the deer eat the same fruit and drop the seeds where no person ever walks.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Listen before you look — the echo parakeet gives itself away with a harsh, ripping screech, while the kestrel hunts low and fast along the canopy rather than circling high.
  • Guava pickers arrive with the fruit in April — Plaine Champagne fills with families and parked cars at weekends, so come on a weekday, and expect wasps around the ripest bushes.
  • Two entrances give two different days — Pétrin, up on the plateau, puts you at the viewpoints within minutes, while the Black River centre starts near sea level and climbs from the first step.
  • Bare basalt turns greasy when wet — the descents into the gorges are steep and tangled with roots, and the rock stays slick for a day or two after rain.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Catch the rim viewpoints at first light from Pétrin

    Catch the rim viewpoints at first light from Pétrin

    From the Pétrin entrance up on the plateau, a few minutes' walk puts you at the first lookouts, so start at dawn: by early afternoon grey cloud rolls in and closes the drop off completely. Stand at the rim while the air is still clear and the forested ravines run unbroken toward the coast. From the western lookouts the whole southwest coast lies below — the turquoise lagoon, the reef line drawn in white, and the flat-topped basalt block of Le Morne closing the view.

  2. 2

    Hike below the rim to a waterfall on bare basalt

    Hike below the rim to a waterfall on bare basalt

    Trails leave the plateau and drop into humid forest until the trees open on a wall of stripped basalt with water coming over the lip. In the dry winter months it falls as a fine thread that the wind pulls sideways; after summer rain the same cliff runs loud and white.

  3. 3

    Walk the last native forest left on Mauritius

    Walk the last native forest left on Mauritius

    The upland trails wind through low, wind-clipped trees that grow nowhere else on Earth — the fragment of Mauritian forest that escaped the axe. It is damp, quiet and often inside cloud, and the birds usually reach you as sound first: the screech of an echo parakeet, or the deep call of a pink pigeon.

  4. 4

    Climb Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire

    Climb Piton de la Petite Rivière Noire

    A short, steep path leaves the plateau and pushes up through scrub to the highest point in Mauritius at 828 metres. The summit is a modest lump of rock with an immodest view. The gorges lie on one side, the sugar plains and the reef on the other, and the whole island is small enough to take in at once.

  5. 5

    Fill a bucket with goyaves de Chine in April

    When the Chinese guava ripens the island comes to the park. Families park along Plaine Champagne, walk into the scrub with buckets and pails, and strip the red fruit straight into them. It is the one weed here you are encouraged to take away, and it tastes somewhere between a strawberry and a guava.

Watch

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