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Bozzhyra

Bozzhyra

DesertsKazakhstanMangystau,Kazakhstan

Two chalk towers 200 metres tall standing alone on a Kazakh valley floor that was once an ocean bed, with fossil shark teeth loose underfoot.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

Autumn is the second good window: days ease from about 25°C in September to the teens by late October, and September's mild dark nights still hold the Milky Way over the fangs. The low sun turns the chalk gold and pink at dawn and dusk.



Year-round The twin chalk fangs, the white castle-walls of the plateau rim and the shell- and shark-tooth-strewn valley floor stand every day of the year, with no gate, ranger or marked path in any season.

Bozzhyra is a valley in the Mangystau region of western Kazakhstan where two chalk towers about 200 metres tall stand alone on the floor, and they are not growing out of it. They are being left behind. The plateau above ends in a steep escarpment, and water and wind keep eating into it. Undercut slabs of chalk drop away, the rim steps backwards year by year, and anything that resists a little longer ends up stranded on the new plain as an island. The fangs are two such survivors, and one day they will go the same way. The Kazakh name ignores them completely. Zhyra is a gully cut by running water and boz is pale, ash-grey, so the name describes the hollow itself — what the erosion took away rather than what it left. The chalk is not ordinary stone either. These white walls are built almost entirely from the shells of microscopic sea creatures that rained down on a quiet seafloor, which is also why wind can carve them. There is no road out here, only hours of unmarked track over flat, colourless plateau, and the arrival does the work: the ground ahead of you simply stops and the towers appear all at once. There is not one viewpoint but three, spread far apart along the rim, each giving you a different angle. The head-on view is the furthest, another forty kilometres of track and then a kilometre's walk to the edge. First light is the hour to be up on the terrace. For a few minutes the towers go from grey to white to hard gold while the floor behind them stays in shadow, and the whole thing resets as the light drops down the walls. At night, with the nearest settlement seventy kilometres off, there is nothing to dim the sky over them. Then you walk down among the towers and look at what you are standing on. The rubble is full of shells, coral fragments and the teeth of sharks that swam here when all of this was open sea.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • April–May and September–October are the only comfortable windows — summer days reach +45°C with no shade anywhere on the plateau, and winter drops below −10°C with a wind that has nothing to break it.
  • Come in a high-clearance 4x4 with a driver who knows the tracks — the final stretch is unmarked dirt with no signposts, and there is no fuel, water or shop for the last 70 kilometres.
  • Keep well back from the rim — the edge is soft chalk that breaks away without warning, and the wind on the terrace is strong enough to shove you.
  • Camp on a new moon, and get to your spot before dark — there is no lighting for tens of kilometres and the tracks are easy to lose once the light goes.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Watch first light hit the fang teeth

    Watch first light hit the fang teeth

    Be on the upper terrace before the sun clears the plateau. For a few minutes the two towers go from grey to white to a hard gold, the valley floor behind them stays in shadow, and the whole scene resets every minute as the light drops down the walls.

  2. 2

    Find a shark tooth on the valley floor

    Find a shark tooth on the valley floor

    Walk down among the towers and look at what you are standing on. The rubble is full of shells, coral fragments and the teeth of sharks that swam here when this was open sea. Leave what you find — it is the only evidence the valley has left of the ocean that built it.

  3. 3

    Drive the trackless steppe to the three lookouts

    Drive the trackless steppe to the three lookouts

    There is no road to Bozzhyra, only hours of unmarked track over flat, colourless plateau in a 4x4, and the arrival is the reward: the ground ahead simply stops and the fangs appear all at once. It is not one viewpoint but three, spread far apart along the rim, each taking a different angle on the valley. The head-on view of the towers is the furthest — another 40 kilometres of track, then a walk of about a kilometre to the edge.

  4. 4

    Sleep where nothing is lit for 70 kilometres

    Sleep where nothing is lit for 70 kilometres

    Pitch a tent back from the rim and wait. With the nearest settlement 70 kilometres away there is nothing to dim the sky, and the Milky Way comes up over the pale towers. It is cold, silent and windier than you expect after dark.

Nearby

Yangykala Canyon 330 km

Yangykala Canyon

TurkmenistanBalkan Vilayeti, Hazar ardı çölü,Turkmenistan
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