[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-da03ab8548a0":3,"categories-en":38,"detail-extra-489":170,"travel-countries-en":272},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":18,"elevationM":16,"bestMonths":21,"tips":32,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":33,"timezone":18,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},489,"da03ab8548a0","cabo-polonio","Cabo Polonio","A Uruguayan cape of dunes with no road and no mains power, only a lighthouse, 130 residents and a seal colony roaring on rocks offshore.",3,5,-53.7892,-34.3975,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fcover.webp","Uruguay","Rocha",0,"nature",null,"The only building at Cabo Polonio wired to the mains is its lighthouse, working since 1881. The cape is a low granite point on the Atlantic coast of Uruguay, held to the land by sand, and no road reaches it. The way in is an open truck across seven kilometres of dune, scrub and shallow water. You stand in the bed and hang on as the chassis pitches, until the last ridge drops away and the lighthouse is there. The old way in is three hours on foot from Valizas, over open dunes. About 130 people live here all year in timber and stone shacks called ranchos, lit by solar panels, small turbines and candles, their water pulled by hand from wells in the sand. With no harbour, the fishermen run their boats straight up the beach and gut the catch there, and the kitchens cook whatever came in that morning; the families running them descend from the sealers.\n\nOffshore lie three low rocks that hold one of only two seal breeding colonies in the country. Two species share them, and they sort themselves out once you look: the fur seal small, dark and pointed in the face; the sea lion twice the size, its bulls with a heavy mane, holding harems through December and January. The rocks under the lighthouse put you as close as anyone gets from land. On a calm night the village hears them, a low unbroken roar under the surf. Inside the tower, 132 narrow steps put the two beaches and the islets below you. Once the last candles go out there is nothing left to compete with the sky: no street lamps, no glow on any horizon. From May to August the core of the Milky Way stands almost overhead at midnight, while the beam wheels silently above the sand. Southern right whales pass a few hundred metres out between July and October, the tall V-shaped blow giving them away first. The same rocks were a killing ground until 1991, when Uruguay finally banned commercial sealing, and the colony has been growing ever since.","UY",[22,23,9,24,10,25,26,27,28,29,30,31],1,2,4,6,7,8,9,10,11,12,"access|**Private cars stop at the terminal on Route 10** — from there it is an open 4x4 truck across seven kilometres of sand and scrub, or a three-hour walk in from Valizas.\nsafety|**Nothing here plugs in** — there is no grid, no cash machine and no street lighting, so arrive with cash, a charged power bank and a torch you can walk the dunes by.\nwildlife|**The seals are out on the islets, not on the beach** — the rocks below the lighthouse get you closest, and in December and January the colony is thick with newborn pups.\nsky|**Walk past the last rancho and give your eyes twenty minutes** — on a moonless night the only light left is the lighthouse, flashing once every twelve seconds.\ncrowds|**January turns a village of 130 into a town of thousands** — for empty dunes with the place still awake, come in the shoulder weeks of November or March.",[34,35,36,37],"P1Fo_icLRec","l2laevwl4Jk","YK5vd64CtIE","pD23fioJjrM",[39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,128,132,136,140,144,148,152,156,160,165],{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":22,"slug":125,"name":126,"color":127},"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":23,"slug":129,"name":130,"color":131},"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":9,"slug":133,"name":134,"color":135},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":24,"slug":137,"name":138,"color":139},"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":10,"slug":141,"name":142,"color":143},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":25,"slug":145,"name":146,"color":147},"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":26,"slug":149,"name":150,"color":151},"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":27,"slug":153,"name":154,"color":155},"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":31,"slug":157,"name":158,"color":159},"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":161,"slug":162,"name":163,"color":164},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":166,"slug":167,"name":168,"color":169},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":171,"exps":189,"boxes":210,"seasons":221,"near":259,"peers":271},[172,174,177,180,183,186],{"url":13,"attribution":173},"Foto: Paulo Kopzinski \u002F Unsplash",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Julio Clavijo Ferraro \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Paulina Arocena Viroga \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Marcelo Campi \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Tania Fernández Cenazzi \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":187,"attribution":188},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: Ezequiel Barreiro \u002F Unsplash",[190,194,198,202,206],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":185},"Cross the dunes to reach the cape","There is no road, so the trucks drive on sand. You stand in the open bed for seven kilometres of dune, scrub and shallow water, hanging on as the chassis pitches, until the last ridge drops away and the lighthouse arrives all at once. The old way in is on foot from Valizas, three hours over open dunes.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":179},"Watch the seal colony from the lighthouse rocks","The rocks under the lighthouse put you as close to the islets as anyone gets from land, and binoculars do the rest. Hundreds of animals haul out on Isla Rasa and its neighbours, the three low rocks Uruguayans call the Islas de Torres. The two species sort themselves out once you look: fur seals small, dark and pointed in the face, sea lion bulls twice the size with a heavy mane.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":199,"description":200,"imageUrl":201,"attribution":188},"Climb the 132 steps of the 1881 lighthouse","The stair inside the tower is narrow, steep and worth it. From the balcony 40 metres above the sea you finally read the shape of the place: a granite point, the seal islets, the two beaches on either flank, and the dune field running off to the horizon.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":176},"Wait for the ranchos to blow out their candles","Once the last candles go out there is nothing left to compete with the sky — no street lamps, no glow on any horizon. Walk onto the sand and the Southern Cross and the Magellanic Clouds come up as sharply as they would in a desert, while the beam wheels silently overhead.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":207,"description":208,"imageUrl":209,"attribution":182},"Eat the catch where the boats land on the sand","With no harbour, the fishermen simply haul their wooden boats up the beach and gut the catch there. The village kitchens cook whatever came in that morning — brótola, corvina, black mussels prised off the rocks — and the families serving it descend from the sealers who founded this place.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fe5.webp",[211,216],{"boxType":212,"title":213,"body":214,"deepBody":215,"sourceNote":18},"history","The captain who gave the cape its name","The cape is named for a shipwreck. In 1753 a Spanish ship grounded on these rocks under an Italian captain, Joseph Poloni — and all 316 people aboard survived.","Her full name — Nuestra Señora del Rosario, Señor San José y las Ánimas — was far too long for daily use, so people simply called her Poloni's ship. By 1760 ox-carts heading east were recording that they were going to Poloni's place. At least eighteen wrecks lie off this coast, the worst the Brazilian warship Solimões, which went down in 1892 with 123 men.",{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":18},"wildlife","Half of Uruguay's seals on three rocks","Two species share the islets: the small South American fur seal and the far bigger South American sea lion. Between them the rocks hold close to half of Uruguay's population of both.","Isla Rasa, Isla Encantada and El Islote make up one of only two breeding grounds in the country. Fur seals pup from late November and sea lions through December and January, when bulls hold harems of four to nine females. The same rocks were a killing ground until 1991, when Uruguay finally banned commercial sealing; the colony has been growing ever since.",[222,227,232,237,242,246,250,254],{"phenomenon":223,"peakMonths":224,"note":225,"requiresDarkSky":226,"sortOrder":22},"milkyway",[10,25,26,27],"No street lighting and no power grid anywhere on the cape, so the darkness is real: from May to August the Milky Way's core stands almost overhead around midnight, the highest it gets all year.",true,{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":23},"whales",[26,27,28,29],"Southern right whales move along the coast between July and October on their run between Península Valdés and southern Brazil, often only a few hundred metres out; the tall V-shaped blow usually gives them away first.",false,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":236},"chapter_peak",[22,23,31],"The warm, alive season: the sea climbs to 21-24C and peaks in late January, sea-lion pups crowd the islets, and every rancho and beach bar is open. January alone turns the village of 130 into a town of thousands.",50,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":241},"chapter_edge",[9,24],"Autumn shoulder: the sea holds its swimming warmth near 20C into April, the January crush is gone, and the dunes are calm and half-empty - the 4x4 trucks still grind in daily across the sand.",51,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":243,"note":244,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":245},[10,25],"Early winter: the water slides into the low teens, most visitors have gone, and over the unlit dunes the Milky Way's core climbs high near midnight - the darkest skies of the year, before the whales arrive.",52,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":247,"note":248,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":249},[26,27,28,29],"The wild season: southern right whales pass a few hundred metres off the lighthouse rocks from July to October, the dark-sky core overhead through August. It is cold and the cape all but shuts down, though a handful of places keep going and the ~130 residents remain.",53,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":251,"note":252,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":253},[30],"Spring shoulder season: the whales are tailing off, the sea is still cool at about 16°C, and the summer crowds have not arrived. The dunes are empty and the ranchos are reopening.",54,{"phenomenon":255,"peakMonths":256,"note":257,"requiresDarkSky":231,"sortOrder":258},"baseline",[],"The islet seal colony, the dunes and the 1881 lighthouse — the cape's one mains-wired building — stand every day; the warm swimmable sea, the pups, the whales and the summer crowds are all seasonal.",99,[260],{"id":261,"publicId":262,"slug":263,"name":264,"shortDescription":265,"categoryId":25,"importance":10,"lng":266,"lat":267,"coverImageUrl":268,"country":14,"region":269,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":270,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},840,"44eab4dd27f7","quebrada-de-los-cuervos-uruguay","Quebrada de los Cuervos","A hundred-metre gorge sunk without warning into Uruguay's open grassland, its sheltered floor holding subtropical forest at its southern limit, vultures nesting on its cliffs.",-54.45694,-32.9275,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fcover.webp","Treinta y Tres 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