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Cal Madow

Cal Madow

PeaksSomaliaSanaag, Somaliland,Somalia

Somalia's last cloud forest, a limestone escarpment above the Gulf of Aden that drinks monsoon fog and grows two hundred plants found nowhere else.

September·Quiet month

Jul–Oct

The dry Xagaa months firm the tracks again from July under hot, hazy, windy skies. But the cloud-forest fog is gone and the plateau is at its plainest, until October's short Deyr rains soften the roads once more.



Year-round The juniper cloud forest, the cliff frankincense trees and the kilometre-deep escarpment view stand every day of the year; what changes is the monsoon fog, the mud on the tracks, and the resin harvest's cycle.

Cal Madow is the last cloud forest in Somalia, and it lives on water taken out of the sea. Limestone climbs from the Gulf of Aden shore to around 2,400 metres, and all winter the northeast monsoon pushes damp air onto that north-facing wall until it cools into cloud. Behind the old port of Maydh the wall collects some 700 millimetres a year. The plain underneath gets less than 200, and on the days without rain fog makes up the difference. That moisture keeps alive old-growth African juniper, slow and gnarled, along with boxwood and tree aloes. Something like a thousand plant species grow here, two hundred of them found nowhere else. One is an aloe that turned into a tree. Aloe eminens climbs to eighteen metres and raises red flowers clear above the forest. The road north from Erigavo drops into Daallo, where cloud moves through the branches and the ground under you is soft with needles. The light comes through grey rather than gold. A trail takes you down through the juniper to the Lamadaya falls, water coming off the escarpment face in one of the driest corners of the Horn. Herders bring their camels onto the plateau for the cooler grazing, along the tracks that run out to the frankincense slopes. Meeting a herd on a mountain road, high above the desert most people picture, rearranges the country for you. Down on the ledges the Boswellia trees root straight into bare limestone, and a harvester opens the bark with a blade called a mangaf. The cut beads white within minutes, and what he is taking is maydi, the grade Arabian buyers pay most for, and most of it is chewed rather than burned: sticky at first, then faintly of lemon on your tongue. Frankincense is not sap, though; it is scar tissue. The tree seals each injury with resin, the slit is reopened every few weeks through the season, and over-tapped trees set fewer viable seeds and die. That is why the harvesters here have started arguing about limits.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Arrange the escort before you leave Hargeisa — the travel permit comes from the tourism ministry, the armed SPU officer rides with you, and the mountain tracks need a 4x4 with a driver who knows them.
  • Take the escarpment view in the first hours after sunrise — as the day warms, cloud climbs the wall from the coast and can swallow a thousand-metre panorama within minutes.
  • The rains turn the tracks to mud — they fall in April–June and October–November, while the plateau roads are at their driest and firmest from December through February.
  • The Warsangli linnet lives in this juniper and nowhere else on Earth — birders also come for the Somali thrush and golden-winged grosbeak; a guide who knows the forest counts for more than binoculars.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Hike to Lamadaya waterfall

    Hike to Lamadaya waterfall

    A trail drops through juniper forest to where the Lamadaya falls plunge off the escarpment face — a rare sight of falling water in one of the driest corners of the Horn of Africa.

  2. 2

    Cross paths with the camel herds above Erigavo

    Cross paths with the camel herds above Erigavo

    Herders bring their camels up onto the plateau for the cooler highland grazing, moving them along the same tracks that lead out to the frankincense slopes. Meeting a herd on a mountain road, thousands of metres above the desert most people associate with camels, rearranges your picture of the country.

  3. 3

    Walk beneath ancient juniper and frankincense trees

    Walk beneath ancient juniper and frankincense trees

    Daallo forest is gnarled African juniper, boxwood and tree aloes with cloud drifting through the branches, and the tracks in are usually driven before they are walked. Off the track the ground is soft with needles and the light comes through grey rather than gold.

  4. 4

    Watch a frankincense harvester work the cliff trees

    In the tapping months a guide can walk you out to the trees with a harvester, up onto the ledges where the Boswellia root straight into bare limestone. He opens the bark with a blade called a mangaf, and the cut beads white within minutes. Ask for a piece of fresh maydi and chew it: sticky at first, then faintly of lemon.

Watch

Nearby

Laas Geel 292 km

Laas Geel

SomaliaSomaliland,Somalia
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