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Wind funnelling up the valley lifts the falling water back against the rock, so for much of the year nothing reaches the pool below. A trail from the Vale do Capão climbs to the clifftop, where you lie flat at the lip with the whole drop under your chin. The short climb is Morro do Pai Inácio, a landmark mesa by the road: at sunset the flat tops run to the horizon and the bare rock goes gold. Most of the park is campo rupestre, rocky highland grassland where tough, fire-hardy plants grow. Among them are the sempre-vivas, everlasting flowers whose papery blooms hold their colour long after picking. So many were gathered that several are now protected.\n\nPoço Azul is the flooded cave you are allowed into, and you float on the surface over sunken trunks and boulders on the floor. From April to September a shaft of midday sun reaches the water and dissolved minerals scatter it into deep blue. Divers have lifted more than four thousand fossil bones out of this one pool, a complete giant ground sloth among them. In the Marimbus wetlands a guide poles a dugout through a maze of flooded channels and water plants, herons and caimans in the reeds, the distant mesas lying on the still water. None of it is seen in a day. The Vale do Pati takes two or three, walking between the table mountains, fording clear rivers, crossing the open rocky grassland of the gerais and sleeping in family farmhouses. The plateau is named for what people used to take out of it. They were hard black diamonds, sold as industrial drilling grit rather than jewellery, panned by hand from these streams until they gave out. 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The route fords clear rivers, passes hidden waterfalls and climbs to ridge-top viewpoints, crossing the gerais — rocky campo rupestre grassland dotted with fire-hardy shrubs and everlasting flowers. It is done entirely on foot with a guide.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F270\u002Fe1.webp","Luis Andrade \u002F Pexels",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":195},"Catch sunset from Morro do Pai Inácio","Take the short, steep climb up this landmark mesa for the classic view over the plateau. As the sun drops, the flat-topped mountains stretch to the horizon and the bare rock turns warm gold — the most photographed moment in the park.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F270\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":180},"Float in the blue water of Poço Azul","Poço Azul is the flooded cave you are allowed into, and you float on the surface looking straight down at sunken trunks and boulders on the floor. Divers have lifted more than four thousand fossil bones out of this pool, among them a complete skeleton of a giant ground sloth. Come near midday in the dry months.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F270\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":207,"attribution":180},"Canoe the Marimbus wetlands","Paddle a dugout canoe through the Marimbus, a maze of flooded channels and water plants often called the 'Bahian Pantanal.' Herons and caimans move among the reeds, and the still water mirrors the distant mesas as your guide poles you slowly through.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F270\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":209,"description":210,"imageUrl":157,"attribution":157},"Hike to Cachoeira da Fumaça","Climb the trail from Vale do Capão to the clifftop above Cachoeira da Fumaça, then lie flat at the lip and look straight down 340 metres. Wind funnelling up the valley lifts the falling water back against the rock, so for much of the year nothing at all reaches the pool below.",[212,217,222],{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":157},"history","The rush that named the plateau","The stones here were hard black diamonds, sold not as jewellery but as industrial drilling grit, and Lençóis boomed on the trade.","For decades garimpeiros panned the streams by hand across the plateau. When the diamonds ran out and mining was later banned inside the park, the same river crossings and mule trails became the routes trekkers follow today.",{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Water so clear it looks bottomless","Poço Encantado is a flooded cave 65 metres deep, yet its water is so clear that fallen tree trunks and boulders on the floor stay in plain sight.","Fed slowly by an underground aquifer, the pool barely moves, so almost nothing clouds it. On clear days between April and September a single shaft of sunlight reaches the surface, and dissolved minerals scatter it into deep blue. That is why swimming is banned here, though nearby Poço Azul lets you float in the same glow.",{"boxType":223,"title":224,"body":225,"deepBody":226,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","A garden of everlasting flowers","Most of the park is campo rupestre — rocky highland grassland where tough, fire-adapted plants grow, many of them found nowhere else on Earth.","These heights hold hundreds of endemic species, including the sempre-vivas, or 'everlasting flowers,' whose papery blooms keep their colour long after they are picked. So many were gathered for handicrafts that several are now protected inside the park.",[228,233,239,244,249,253],{"phenomenon":229,"peakMonths":230,"note":231,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":90},"lightbeam",[105,110,115,120,125,162],"From about April to September, on clear days, a shaft of midday sun slips into the flooded caves of Poço Azul and Poço Encantado and minerals throw it back electric blue.",false,{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":235,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,236,130],11,"Rainy season: the valleys turn green and Cachoeira da Fumaça and Cachoeirão thunder at full force. Cloud closes the cave-light window, and muddy trails and swollen rivers make the long treks harder.",50,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":241,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":232,"sortOrder":243},"chapter_edge",[105],"The turn: the rains ease, Cachoeira da Fumaça still runs full from the wet months, and the cave-light window opens again. 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