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Chefchaouen

Chefchaouen

Historic TownsMoroccoTanger-Tetouan-Al Hoceima,Morocco

A Moroccan town whose medina is painted blue from doorstep to rooftop, no two walls the same shade, and closed to outsiders for 450 years.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

The autumn shoulder: the heat eases to mild highs around 25°C from September, the first rains revive the slopes and streams, and October's warmth gives way to a quieter, wetter November. It is the mellow twin of spring, the last easy stretch before winter.



Year-round The blue medina is repainted by hand and stands the same in every month; only the Rif slopes and rivers around it change.

Chefchaouen is a town in the Rif mountains of northern Morocco, its medina painted blue from doorstep to rooftop, no two walls quite the same shade. The lanes are barely two people wide, so the colour changes at every turn: cobalt under your feet, powder blue at shoulder height, indigo in the shadowed archways. It is not as old as it looks. Photographs from the 1930s show only scattered blue houses; the uniform indigo consolidated from the 1970s as travellers arrived. Nobody can prove who started it; the likeliest story goes back to the town's Sephardic Jewish community, for whom blue is sacred. It had been shut to outsiders for 450 years, founded in 1471 as a fortress against the Portuguese; the first Christians to walk in, in the 1920s, found people still speaking medieval Spanish. The medina is small enough that walking without a destination costs you nothing. At its upper edge the mountain water comes out of the rock at the Ras el-Maa spring and runs through open channels where laundry is still washed. A half-hour climb up the bare hill to the east reaches the Spanish Mosque, the town's favourite sunset spot and a building nobody would pray in. The Spanish put it up in the 1920s for a town they had just occupied, and residents, suspecting a lookout, stayed away. From its terrace the blue houses stack down the slope in one sheet, the two Rif peaks behind. Late in the day the walls stop being blue and go faintly violet while the white plaster edges pick up gold. The rooftop terraces above Uta el-Hammam square are where you sit with mint tea and watch it happen. An hour out of town the Akchour cascades run through a green limestone gorge, full in spring and a thread by late summer. The park those hills belong to, Talassemtane, exists for a tree: the Moroccan fir, which grows on almost no other mountain. The blue itself is renewed by hand, house by house, with lime and pigment, and at the door handles you can count the coats.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come out at first light — until the day-trip buses from Tangier and Fez arrive late morning the lanes belong to cats and bread deliveries, and the low sun keeps the blue soft rather than glaring.
  • Give the Akchour gorge a full day — the trailhead is a 30 km drive out, and after heavy winter rain the river crossings to the upper cascade can be impassable.
  • The medina is car-free and steeply cobbled — park outside Bab el-Ain and wear shoes with grip, because the polished stone lanes turn slick as soon as it rains.
  • Expect quiet offers of kif — the Rif's cannabis fields are close by, a polite refusal ends the conversation, and buying is still illegal in Morocco.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Lose the thread in the blue medina

    Lose the thread in the blue medina

    The lanes are barely two people wide and every turn changes the shade: cobalt underfoot, powder blue at shoulder height, indigo in the shadowed archways. Stop at the old wooden doors, studded with brass bosses and set into keyhole arches, and you can read the layers — lime, pigment, another coat over last year's, chipped back at the handle. The medina is small enough that walking without a destination costs you nothing.

  2. 2

    Climb to the Spanish Mosque for the whole town at once

    Climb to the Spanish Mosque for the whole town at once

    A half-hour walk up the bare hill east of the medina brings you to the roofless colonial mosque nobody ever used. From its terrace the blue houses stack down the slope in one unbroken sheet, with the two Rif peaks closing the frame behind them.

  3. 3

    Take a terrace at the hour the blue turns violet

    Take a terrace at the hour the blue turns violet

    Late light is when the walls stop being blue and go faintly violet, and the white plaster edges pick up gold. Order mint tea on a rooftop above Uta el-Hammam square and watch the colour drain out of the medina while the call to prayer crosses the valley.

  4. 4

    Watch the washing at the Ras el-Maa spring

    Watch the washing at the Ras el-Maa spring

    At the upper edge of the medina the mountain water comes out of the rock and runs through open stone channels. Women still bring laundry down to it, cats sleep on the warm steps above, and the sound of the water follows you back into the lanes.

  5. 5

    Hike the gorge to the Akchour cascades

    Hike the gorge to the Akchour cascades

    An hour out of town the Talassemtane hills open into a green limestone gorge with a river running through it. The path crosses the water on planks and boulders to a tall cascade and a cold pool; it runs hardest in spring, and by late summer it slows to a thread.

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