The Danakil Depression, in the Afar country of northeastern Ethiopia, is the place where the Earth is coming apart. Three tectonic plates are pulling away from one another here, thinning the crust until magma breaks through, and the floor has already sunk more than a hundred metres below sea level. It is also the hottest place on the planet by year-round average. Erta Ale is what the thinning crust produced: a low black shield rising off the desert, whose crater has held molten rock since at least 1906, longer than any other lava lake known. Groups save the last climb for late evening, once the desert has cooled, and go up the black slopes by headlamp. What looked like dull grey rubble in daylight starts to glow ahead of you as you get near the top. What is actually in the pit depends on the year. The lake drained in 2017, rose and fell again, and eruptions in late 2025 dropped it out of sight again. What still reaches you on the rim is the heat coming off the crust, the gas, and the red working through the cracks after dark.
You bed down on the rim itself with no shelter, and by dawn the pit has gone a dull cracked grey-silver, thin red lines still creeping between the cooled slabs. The same overland trip crosses to Dallol, where acidic springs crust the ground in sulphurous yellow, green and rust-orange. The brine there is near boiling and more acidic than battery acid. Researchers study it for what life on early Earth or on Mars would have had to survive. Beyond it the salt flats run white to the horizon. Afar miners still cut slabs out of those dried lake beds and lead them out by camel in long lines, working the cooler hours, in one of the last great caravan trades. The salt they are carrying is what an older sea left behind, and the geologists expect the Red Sea to come back in and flood the whole floor.