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The beach is Baía do Sancho, which you reach down a staircase and then an iron ladder pinned into a cleft in the cliff. At the bottom is a crescent of gold sand, with tropicbirds and boobies nesting in the rock overhead. The dolphins hunt all night in deep water offshore and come into Baía dos Golfinhos in the morning to rest, mate and keep their young from sharks. They do it on about ninety-five days out of a hundred, sometimes two thousand at a time. The bay is closed to swimmers, so you watch from the lookout above it before sunrise, the water below busy with fins.\n\nThe water is the other half of the island. Divers drop along volcanic walls into visibility past thirty metres, among reef sharks and rays, and the experienced go down to a warship on the seabed. At low tide the reef seals off the Atalaia rock pool, and you wade in with a few others among small rays and baby sharks in water like glass. A boat round the archipelago takes you past Morro do Pico, the volcanic spike that serves as the island's landmark, and the twin rocks of Dois Irmãos. From December to June green turtles haul out after dark to bury their eggs on the open-ocean sand at Praia do Leão. In the evening everyone gathers at the ruined Boldró fort, where the sun goes down beside Dois Irmãos; sometimes there is applause. None of this was preserved on purpose. Noronha was a prison from 1737 until 1942; convicts built its roads, forts and cisterns, and nobody else was allowed to build anything. 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Reef sharks, rays and shoals of fish patrol the volcanic walls, and experienced divers can drop to a sunken warship resting on the seabed. For a shallower look, wade into the Atalaia rock pool at low tide, sealed off by the reef, where reef fish, small rays and baby sharks shelter in water like glass. Entry there is limited and timed to the tide to protect the coral, so numbers stay small.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F229\u002Fe1.webp","Tadeu Pereira (Ted) \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":177},"Round the archipelago by boat","Follow the coastline past Morro do Pico and the twin Dois Irmãos rocks to coves that no road can reach. Spinner dolphins often ride the bow wave, and from the water the sheer volcanic cliffs rise straight out of the sea.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F229\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":201,"description":202,"imageUrl":203,"attribution":204},"Climb down to Baía do Sancho","Descend a staircase and ladder pinned to a cleft in the cliff to reach a crescent of golden sand and impossibly clear water. Tropicbirds and boobies nest in the rock walls overhead, wheeling out over the cove.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F229\u002Fe4-1hj0.webp","Marcelo Gonzalez \u002F Pexels",{"title":206,"description":207,"imageUrl":208,"attribution":209},"Catch the sunset from Forte do Boldró","Join the evening crowd at the ruined Boldró fort as the sun slides down beside the Dois Irmãos rocks and sets the cliffs glowing. Watching the day end here is the island's nightly ritual, sometimes met with applause.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F229\u002Fe5.webp","Tom Lima \u002F Pexels",{"title":211,"description":212,"imageUrl":213,"attribution":214},"Watch the dawn dolphins at Baía dos Golfinhos","Climb to the Mirante dos Golfinhos lookout before sunrise and look down as hundreds of spinner dolphins stream into the bay below, the water busy with fins and the odd leap. It is the surest dolphin sighting on the island.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F229\u002Fe-3994.webp","Adelano Lázaro \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons",[216,221,226],{"boxType":217,"title":218,"body":219,"deepBody":220,"sourceNote":157},"history","From prison to sanctuary","For most of its recorded history Noronha was a prison, not a refuge — Brazil held convicts and political prisoners here from 1737 until 1942.","The Portuguese first fortified the island against French and Dutch raiders in the 1730s, then turned it into a penal colony whose inmates built its roads, forts and cisterns. During the Second World War it briefly served as a United States naval base, and most islanders today descend from those prisoners, guards and troops.",{"boxType":222,"title":223,"body":224,"deepBody":225,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","Why the dolphins come at dawn","The spinner dolphins spend their nights hunting in deep water offshore, then slip into the calm bay each morning to rest, mate and shelter their young from sharks.","They turn up on roughly 95 out of every 100 days, in groups that have reached two thousand animals, making this one of the densest concentrations of the species on the planet. Their name comes from their habit of leaping and twisting several times in the air, a behaviour local researchers have tracked since the 1990s.",{"boxType":227,"title":228,"body":229,"deepBody":230,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The green turtles' nursery","From December to June, green turtles haul ashore after dark to bury their eggs, mostly on the wilder open-ocean sand of Praia do Leão.","Brazil's TAMAR project has guarded these nests since 1984, watching over one of the country's key green-turtle breeding grounds. Weeks after the eggs are laid the hatchlings dig out and race for the sea, while adults can be seen grazing by day in the sheltered inner-sea shallows.",[232,238,243,248],{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":236,"sortOrder":237},"chapter_edge",[90,130],"Warm water and spinner dolphins gathering in their dry-season numbers, but also the holiday high season and the island's busiest weeks. From mid-December the first North Atlantic swells roll into the Mar de Dentro, sending surf to Cacimba do Padre and stirring the sheltered beaches.",false,50,{"phenomenon":239,"peakMonths":240,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":236,"sortOrder":242},"chapter_quiet",[95,100,105,110,115,120],"The low, rainy season peaks in April, with the fewest visitors. North Atlantic swells fire surf at Cacimba do Padre and roughen the inner beaches into March; by April both coasts calm and green turtles nest on Leão, which closes at dusk. Nothing else shuts.",51,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":236,"sortOrder":247},"chapter_peak",[125,161,162,163],"The dry season at its best: barely any rain, glassy calm seas and visibility past 30 metres — clearest in September–October. Both coasts are diveable and spinner dolphins crowd Baía dos Golfinhos at dawn, all before the North Atlantic surf swell fills in.",52,{"phenomenon":249,"peakMonths":250,"note":251,"requiresDarkSky":236,"sortOrder":252},"baseline",[],"The volcanic islands, their clear reefs and the dawn spinner-dolphin gathering are here year-round; the drier months, August to January, bring the calmest, clearest 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