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Glencoe

Glencoe

PeaksUnited KingdomScotland,United Kingdom

A deep glacial pass through the Scottish Highlands, carved from the wreck of a 420-million-year-old supervolcano and remembered for a massacre under trust in 1692.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

Glencoe's finest hour: from late September the red-deer rut fills the glen with roaring stags, the midges fade after mid-September, and the low autumn light turns golden.



Year-round Glencoe's peaks and waterfalls are here year-round, and the light changes constantly. Wind, rain and sudden sun are part of what visitors come for. Spring floods the mountain hollows green, and autumn turns the bracken brown.

Glencoe is a deep pass through the western Highlands of Scotland, and the walls that press in on the road are the inside of a volcano. About 420 million years ago a supervolcano here drained its own magma chamber, and the whole cauldron of rock sank along a ring fracture, dropping its core below the reach of erosion. That collapse is the only reason any of it survives, and geologists mapping the glen coined the term cauldron subsidence for it. Ice-age glaciers then cut a trench through the wreck. The A82 threads the floor of it, black cliffs close on both sides, and every bend brings you another waterfall, a shaft of light, or the road ahead going into cloud. At the eastern mouth the sharp pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mòr stands over the small white Lagangarbh cottage, the picture everyone takes. Further in, the Three Sisters drop into the glen straight above you, three great buttresses off the ridge. Where the road runs along Loch Achtriochtan, a still morning gives you the tops on the water without a ripple, and in October the bronze bracken comes with them. The massacre is the other thing the glen is remembered for. In 1692 soldiers quartered with the MacDonalds as guests turned on their hosts, under orders to make an example of a clan late in swearing loyalty to the king. Three centuries on it still colours the place. For years the old Clachaig Inn kept a notice at the door reading No Hawkers or Campbells, and staff still field the odd real Campbell asking for a room. The brooding light has made the glen Hollywood's shorthand for wild Scotland; the road through the pass opens Skyfall, and Hagrid's hut was built here for Harry Potter. The best of it is off the road. You climb a steep, boulder-strewn gorge between the Three Sisters, and the ground suddenly levels into Coire Gabhail, the Hidden Valley. It is a wide, silent bowl ringed by peaks, and not a metre of it shows from the road below.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The Hidden Valley (Coire Gabhail) is the walk to make — a steep two-to-three-hour scramble that fords the River Coe and climbs through boulders, so wear proper boots.
  • Come early or late to beat the tour buses — the small Three Sisters and Hidden Valley pull-offs on the A82 fill fast by mid-morning in summer, leaving evenings and dawns far quieter.
  • Midges swarm on still, damp evenings from June to August, worst near the lochs and river at dusk; carry repellent or a head-net, or plan walks for breezier hours.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Drive through the glen on the A82

    Drive through the glen on the A82

    Thread the single road through the heart of the pass, where black cliffs press close on both sides and every bend reveals a new waterfall, a shaft of light, or the road ahead vanishing into cloud. Where the A82 runs along the shore of Loch Achtriochtan, pull over and wait for the wind to drop. On a still morning the loch holds a clean mirror of the surrounding tops, and by October the bronze bracken doubles in the water.

  2. 2

    Hike to the Hidden Valley

    Hike to the Hidden Valley

    Climb the steep, boulder-strewn gorge between the Three Sisters until the ground suddenly levels into Coire Gabhail — a wide, silent bowl invisible from the road below, ringed by peaks and cut off from the glen.

  3. 3

    Photograph the lone cottage below Buachaille Etive Mòr

    Photograph the lone cottage below Buachaille Etive Mòr

    Pull off the A82 near Altnafeadh at the eastern mouth of the glen and frame the white Lagangarbh cottage dwarfed beneath the sharp pyramid of Buachaille Etive Mòr — the glen's signature shot. Time it for dawn or the moment after a passing squall, when a shaft of light breaks over the moor and lifts the little cottage clear of the dark slope behind it.

  4. 4

    Stand beneath the Three Sisters

    Stand beneath the Three Sisters

    Pull off at the roadside viewpoint on the A82 and crane up at the three great buttresses that plunge straight into the glen from the high ridge above. Come at dawn or dusk to have the small pull-off to yourself — by mid-morning in summer the tour buses fill it fast.

Watch

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