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Nobody made it. The ground there turns too salty for trees, leaving a bare patch called a tanne, and the channels that drain the swamp happen to draw the outline. Nobody standing on it can see it, either. Down at sea level the mangrove is a flat grey-green tangle at the edge of the lagoon, and the shape does not register at all. It became famous by accident: Yann Arthus-Bertrand photographed it from a helicopter in 1990, the picture went on the cover of Earth from Above, and the book sold in the millions.\n\nThere are two ways to get the height. A marked trail climbs the ridge of Mont Katépahie behind the town, 7.7 kilometres there and back for 340 metres of ascent, with almost no shade on it, and the ridge turns fierce by midday. The heart does not arrive all at once. It assembles as you climb, and only from the picnic plateau at the top does the mangrove below sort itself into a clean figure against the pale water. The other way is the air. Small planes and ultralights go up from the local strip and bank low over the clearing, the one angle that gives you the outline as crisp as the photograph. From up there it is only part of what you see. The Gatope reef lies beside it, a blue hole sits in the shallows as a dark disc, and the whole lagoon is held in by a barrier reef that runs almost the entire way around the island. The shape itself is softening. A ring of tall red mangrove still traces the outline, but low grey scrub has spread across the middle, where the sea now reaches only on the highest tides. The heart you climb to is already greener and blurrier than the one on the cover.","NC","Voh, Grande Terre",[105,110,115,120,125,162,163,164],9,10,11,"timing|**Come on a clear, still morning** — haze and the afternoon trade winds flatten both the heart's outline and the lagoon colour, so the earlier and calmer the air, the sharper everything reads.\naccess|**The Katépahie trail is a real climb, not a stroll** — the ridge path has almost no shade and turns fierce by midday, so carry plenty of water and set off early.\nwater|**Save time for the lagoon itself** — the heart is quick to see, but the reef around Gatope rewards a half-day by boat or snorkel over the coral bommies and blue holes.\nsafety|**Stay on the marked paths** — the tanne and mangrove underfoot are fragile and the mud is deceptively soft; the heart is best seen, and best protected, from the ridge above.",[167,168,169,170],"ulr2G1ldQ4Q","A2X89em8Up8","iJhmFqWM-tQ","Ykjx-v8TaS4","Pacific\u002FNoumea",{"gallery":173,"exps":189,"boxes":200,"seasons":211,"near":237,"peers":249},[174,176,179,182,185,187],{"url":152,"attribution":175},"Samadi Alexandre \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fg0.webp","Gui0123 \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fg1.webp","Lauchantoiseau \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fg2.webp","Frenchytahiti \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":186,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":188,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fg4.webp",[190,195],{"title":191,"description":192,"imageUrl":193,"attribution":194},"Climb Mont Katépahie to the heart","The path up the ridge behind town is 7.7 kilometres there and back for 340 metres of climb, with almost no shade on it — go early, because the ridge turns fierce by midday. The heart is invisible from the ground and does not arrive all at once: it assembles as you climb, and only from the picnic plateau does the mangrove read as a clean figure against the lagoon. Expect a softer outline than the famous photograph — the ring of tall red mangrove still traces it, but low grey scrub has spread across what used to be a bare centre.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fe1.webp","ToucanWings \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":199},"See the whole heart from the air","Small planes and ultralights lift off from the local airstrip and bank low over the clearing — the one angle where the heart reads as crisply as it does in the famous photograph. From up there the green heart, the Gatope reef and the dark disc of a blue hole all fall into a single frame.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F150\u002Fe2.webp","Kévin Thenaisie \u002F Wikimedia Commons",[201,206],{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A heart that is quietly closing","Why does the famous heart look greener and blurrier than it did in the 1990 photograph? Its once-bare centre is slowly filling in.","A ring of tall red Rhizophora traces the outline, while low grey Avicennia has spread across the empty middle, where seawater reaches only at the highest tides. Decade by decade the shape has grown softer and greener than in Arthus-Bertrand's photograph — natural plant succession, not damage.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":157},"geology","The reef that circles an island","The pale water around Voh belongs to New Caledonia's lagoon, held in by a barrier reef that all but rings the whole island of Grande Terre.","Stretching some 1,500 kilometres, it is the second most extensive barrier-reef system on Earth after Australia's Great Barrier Reef, and encloses one of the world's largest lagoons. UNESCO inscribed it in 2008 for its exceptional coral diversity and the near-complete ring it draws around the island.",[212,218,223,228,232],{"phenomenon":213,"peakMonths":214,"note":215,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":217},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,130],"Voh's hot, humid wet season: rainfall and cyclone risk peak from December to March, and haze plus strong trade winds soften the heart's outline. The trail stays open, and morning flights run when weather allows but are often cancelled by cloud and wind.",false,50,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":220,"note":221,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":222},"chapter_edge",[105,110],"The rains fade and the air clears and cools: by May daytime highs ease to the mid-20s°C and mornings near 19°C, humidity drops and the lagoon colour sharpens. A quieter shoulder before the dry season proper, with kinder climbs and clear mornings returning.",51,{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":225,"note":226,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":227},"chapter_peak",[115,120,125,162,163],"The dry season is Voh at its sharpest: skies are clearest and trade winds calmest, especially in August and September, so the heart and turquoise lagoon read crisp from ridge or morning flight. Cool mornings near 17°C make the shadeless Katépahie climb comfortable.",52,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":231},[164],"Warmth and humidity build again before the wet season: November is still often clear and calm enough for good morning views, but afternoon haze and cloud return and the first storms are possible. A last easy-weather window before the rains.",53,{"phenomenon":233,"peakMonths":234,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":236},"baseline",[],"The heart shape in the mangrove is there year-round, best seen from the ridge or a light plane. The cooler, drier months make the climb easier.",99,[238],{"id":239,"publicId":240,"slug":241,"name":242,"shortDescription":243,"categoryId":135,"importance":105,"lng":244,"lat":245,"coverImageUrl":246,"country":153,"region":247,"ratingAvg":155,"ratingCount":155,"sensitivity":155,"distanceM":248,"kind":157,"cityGuideId":157},549,"b2fc905381af","ile-des-pins","Île des Pins (Isle of Pines)","A New Caledonian island where columnar pines found nowhere else line every shore, above shallows and a tidal pool the reef fills through one gap.",167.49,-22.62,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F549\u002Fcover.webp","Loyauté bölgesi, Yeni 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