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The floor of every basin is travertine, pale lime dropped out of the spring water, and it throws sunlight straight back up at you. Shallow pools send back gold and amber, deeper ones scatter blue and green, and mineral films tint the edges. The same water reads a different colour in each basin it falls into. That lime builds the rims as well. The spring water arrives carrying dissolved limestone, loses its carbon dioxide to the air and leaves calcite along every lip, a few millimetres a year. Huanglong means yellow dragon, and in the legend one helped Yu the Great channel China's floods and then settled here, its scaled body becoming these terraces. A Ming-era Taoist temple still stands for it at the head of the valley.\n\nThe boardwalk switchbacks up through pine and larch, and every bend you turn opens onto a fresh run of colour. It is only a few kilometres, but the valley tops out near 3,600 metres and the thin air makes it far longer on your lungs than the distance suggests. A cable car up one side carries most people to the top to walk down instead. Coming back down is the quiet half, winding among pools half hidden in the forest where the only sound is water slipping from one rim into the next. Somewhere above, in old-growth forest nobody walks into, are giant pandas and golden snub-nosed monkeys. From late September to mid-October the larch and maple above the terraces turn gold and crimson, and a single cold snap can strip them within days. 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The air thins with every step above 3,000 metres, so the climb takes longer than the distance suggests. Coming back down, the boardwalk winds among pools half-hidden in the forest, where the only sound is water slipping from one rim into the next — the quietest part of the day.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F235\u002Fe1.webp","Colin W \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Overlook the Five-Colour Pond","From the platform above the valley's head, take in the hundreds of pools of the Five-Colour Pond at once, shifting from jade to amber and ice-blue beneath the snow-capped peaks.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F235\u002Fe2.webp","Jan Dvorak \u002F Pexels",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":198},"Time your visit for the autumn burn","Aim for the narrow window between late September and early November, and check recent photos before you commit — a single cold snap can strip the larch and maple within days. Walk the forested lower terraces then, when the gold and crimson slopes stand straight above the water.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F235\u002Fe3.webp",[204,209,214,219],{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":157},"legend","The dragon that helped tame the flood","In Chinese legend the valley is named for a yellow dragon that helped the flood-tamer Yu the Great channel the raging waters, then settled here — its long, scaled body becoming the terraced pools.","The story ties Huanglong to Yu the Great, the mythical hero who drained China's great floods; the yellow dragon that aided him is said to have turned to stone as the golden travertine ridge. A Ming-era Taoist temple at the valley's head still honours it, and a temple fair once drew pilgrims each summer.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Why every pool is a different colour","The colours are not dye but a trick of white stone, clear water and light: a bright travertine floor throws sunlight back up through pools of varying depth.","Calcite settling out of the spring water coats each basin in pale, reflective travertine. Shallow pools bounce back warm yellows and golds, while deeper ones scatter blues and greens; mineral films and hardy algae tint the edges. Change the depth, the light or the season and the same water reads a wholly different shade.",{"boxType":215,"title":216,"body":217,"deepBody":218,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","Pandas in the forest above","The forests wrapping the travertine are protected habitat for giant pandas and the rare Sichuan golden snub-nosed monkey, though both keep well away from the boardwalks.","Huanglong sits within a wider reserve that shelters giant pandas, golden snub-nosed monkeys and takin, along with an endemic slipper orchid found on these slopes. Visitors almost never see the large animals — the draw stays the pools — but the surrounding old-growth forest is why the whole valley is so strictly guarded.",{"boxType":210,"title":220,"body":221,"deepBody":222,"sourceNote":157},"The rim grows a few millimetres a year","These pools are still being built. Spring water arrives loaded with dissolved limestone, loses its carbon dioxide to the air, and drops calcite along the edges — measurements put the rate at up to a few millimetres a year.","That is why the dams are highest where the water runs fastest over a lip: turbulence drives the outgassing, and the rim builds where the film of water is thinnest. The whole 3.6-kilometre chain of terraces is carbonate over 95 percent pure, laid down since the last glaciers left the valley. Standing on it would break the rims — which is why the boardwalk never touches the ground.",[224,229,235,239,244,249],{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":90},"foliage",[162,163],"In autumn the larch and maple on the slopes above the golden travertine pools flare red and gold from late September through mid-October, meeting the cold turquoise water below before the leaves strip in the first snows.",false,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":233,"requiresDarkSky":228,"sortOrder":234},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,232,130],11,"Cold deepens from about 11°C by day in November to below −10°C in January: the waterfalls freeze, the terraces half-ice into a silent ice forest, and the cable car shuts for maintenance. 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