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The ice comes from Sermeq Kujalleq, the fastest-moving glacier on Earth, and a large share of Greenland's icebergs begin at its face. None of it gets out quickly. A shallow ridge of rock and gravel lies across the mouth, and the glacier's front reaches so far below sea level that the ice it drops hangs hundreds of metres underwater. Anything that deep grounds on the ridge, so the biggest bergs sit for months, breaking one another apart until they are light enough to float over it. A boardwalk leaves the edge of town and carries you across tundra to the cliffs at Sermermiut, high over the jam. You do not sit there long without hearing it: a berg splits with a crack you hear before you see anything move, rolls over, and pushes a swell across the water.\n\nThe cliff itself was lived on for four thousand years. Sermermiut was one of Greenland's largest settlements, occupied almost continuously from about 2400 BCE until the last families moved into town in 1850. A boat gives the ice its real size. Out in Disko Bay the floes that looked like white teeth from the cliff stand over your deck, and the boats keep well off: a berg that has melted far enough will roll without warning. Kittiwakes work the blue walls where cold, food-rich water wells up at the fjord mouth, and humpbacks feed among the ice from April to the end of September. From 21 May to 24 July the sun never sets, circling low through the small hours and turning the whole field pink, gold and blue at what ought to be midnight. For about six weeks around midwinter it never clears the horizon, and the aurora is up over the bergs by afternoon. Nothing leaves this fjord until it has broken itself small enough. 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Take the bench and give it time: sooner or later a berg splits with a crack like a gunshot and rolls over, pushing a swell across the water. The ice is packed so tightly out there that something is always shifting. The ground you are sitting on was lived on for thousands of years.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F169\u002Fe1.webp","Mikhail Nilov \u002F Pexels",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":185},"Cruise among the icebergs","Take a boat out into Disko Bay to pass beneath bergs that dwarf the deck, threading the calm channels between giants that drifted here from the glacier's face. Kittiwakes and Arctic gulls wheel over the blue ice walls, dipping to feed where cold, food-rich water wells up at the fjord mouth.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F169\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Watch the ice under midnight sun and polar night","Between late May and late July the sun never sets here: it circles low through the small hours and turns the whole field of ice pink, gold and blue. The opposite extreme runs from 26 November to 13 January, when the sun does not clear the horizon at all. Step out in the afternoon then and the aurora may already be up over the bergs, no late vigil needed.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F169\u002Fe5.webp","Peter Platou \u002F Pexels",[202,207,212],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":157},"history","4,000 years at Sermermiut","The cliffs where the trail ends are not empty ground. Sermermiut was one of Greenland's largest and longest-lived settlements, inhabited almost continuously from around 2400 BCE until 1850.","Excavations here have turned up traces of three successive peoples — the Saqqaq, the Early Dorset and the Thule, ancestors of today's Greenlandic Inuit. The last families left in 1850 for the nearby colony of Jakobshavn, the town now called Ilulissat.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Why the giants run aground","Many of the largest icebergs do not leave the fjord quickly. A shallow ridge of rock and gravel lies across its mouth, and any berg whose underwater bulk is deeper than the ridge simply grounds on it.","The glacier's front reaches far below sea level, so the ice it calves can extend hundreds of metres underwater. Trapped behind the ridge, the biggest bergs can sit for months, jostling and slowly breaking apart until they are light enough to float over and drift on into Disko Bay.",{"boxType":213,"title":214,"body":215,"deepBody":216,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The berg that may have sunk the Titanic","The town has long called itself Greenland's iceberg capital, and by old local repute the berg that sank the Titanic in 1912 was born in this fjord — though it has never been proven.","Ice calved by Sermeq Kujalleq drifts out of Disko Bay and rides the West Greenland and Labrador currents thousands of kilometres south into the North Atlantic shipping lanes, where the Titanic went down. Which fjord that particular berg came from was never recorded, so the link stays a local tradition rather than a fact.",[218,223,227,231,237,242,246,251,255],{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":220,"note":221,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":90},"midnightsun",[110,115,120],"The sun stays above the horizon from about 21 May to 24 July, lighting the icebergs right through the night.",false,{"phenomenon":224,"peakMonths":225,"note":226,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":95},"whales",[100,105,110],"Bowhead whales spend the spring feeding on copepods deep in Disko Bay, then start north around 27 May; humpbacks arrive from April and feed among the bergs until the end of September.",{"phenomenon":228,"peakMonths":229,"note":230,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":100},"icebergs",[115,120,125,162],"Summer opens the fjord and the bay fills with drifting and grounded icebergs at their largest and most reachable.",{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":236},"chapter_quiet",[90,234,130],11,"Polar night runs from 30 November to 11 January. The aurora hangs over the fjord and a winter boat runs among the bergs, but whale and Eqi trips are over. The Icefjord Centre stays closed for most of this stretch and opens again on 13 January, the day the town greets the returning sun.",50,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":241},"chapter_edge",[95,100,105],"Sled-dog season: February to mid-April the teams run, the returning sun lights the bergs, and the aurora holds until March. Bowheads feed deep in the bay; the winter boat sails, but the summer fleet and the Eqi trips are still months off.",51,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":243,"note":244,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":245},[110],"The sun stops setting on 21 May and the boats return, but the ice can still block the run to Eqi, the bowheads head north around the 27th, and the Icefjord Centre only opens Wednesday to Sunday.",52,{"phenomenon":247,"peakMonths":248,"note":249,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":250},"chapter_peak",[115,120,125],"Everything runs. The sun circles all night until 24 July, humpbacks feed among the bergs, and every boat sails: icefjord cruises, midnight sailings, Eqi glacier trips. From 16 June the Icefjord Centre opens daily.",53,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":252,"note":253,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":254},[162,163],"September closes well: the last humpbacks, the last Eqi sailings, dwarf birch turning red. October takes the daylight away again and the aurora returns over the fjord. The icefjord boat keeps running, and the Centre cuts back to Wednesday–Sunday.",54,{"phenomenon":256,"peakMonths":257,"note":258,"requiresDarkSky":222,"sortOrder":259},"baseline",[],"Icebergs jam the fjord every day of the year: the moraine sill strands anything drawing over 200 metres, and winter freezes the jam in place. 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