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Isalo National Park

Isalo National Park

Rock FormationsMadagascarIhorombe,Madagascar

Ochre sandstone canyons in Madagascar's dry south that look like desert but hide shaded streams, palms and spring-fed pools, with Bara tombs in the cliffs.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

The hot, bone-dry end of the dry season: the savanna browns and days climb toward 30°C, but the spring-fed Piscine Naturelle runs clearest and the Fenêtre de l'Isalo blazes red at sunset. Everything stays open.


Year-round The eroded sandstone canyons, spring-fed pools and the Fenêtre arch are here year-round; the dry season, April to October, is the hiking window, and sunsets glow through the stone arch.

Isalo is a massif of ochre sandstone in the dry south of Madagascar, cut into canyons, spires and flat-topped domes, and from the road it looks like nothing but desert. The rock is why that is wrong. Isalo's sandstone is porous: it takes up the rare rains like a sponge and lets the water out again, slowly, as springs deep in the canyons. So your walk starts across open plateau of grass and bare rock with no shade at all. Then it drops through a gap in the wall into shade, water and trees. The canyon floor is damp, a stream runs under pandanus palms, and the temperature changes as you go down. Ring-tailed lemurs come to the water, and white Verreaux's sifakas leap from trunk to trunk overhead. Up on the plateau the trails run among wind-cut spires and flat-topped domes, walked early because the bare rock gives no shade. Thirteen of the plants up here grow on this massif and no other, among them the elephant's foot, which keeps its own water in a swollen trunk. The cliffs hold the dead as well. The Bara bury in two stages. A body is left in a low cave for some months, then the bones are carried up and sealed into niches high in the sandstone, the hardest to reach the most honourable. These are graves still in use, not ruins, so you look from the canyon floor, where the piled stones and zebu skulls on the ledges are clear enough. South of Ranohira a natural window in the rock, the Fenêtre de l'Isalo, takes the sun at the end of the day, and the massif holds its red for only a few minutes. The rock's own water is saved for the middle of the walk. The Piscine Naturelle is a clear pool ringed by palms at the foot of the walls, fed by a spring in the rock, cold enough to shock you after a morning on bare rock.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Every trek needs a licensed local guide by park rule — you cannot walk any circuit alone, and it is the guide who reads the Bara tomb sites on the cliffs for you.
  • Circuits run from about three hours to a four-day traverse — anything past a single day means sleeping inside the park at fixed camps such as Namaza, which holds thirty-odd tents.
  • Bring a swimsuit for the Piscine Naturelle — the pool is spring-fed and stays cold all year, and it runs clearest late in the dry season when nothing is washing into it.
  • Set out at first light and again near sunset — lemurs feed in the cool hours and the low sun warms the sandstone, while midday leaves you exposed on the shadeless plateau.
  • Carry more water than you think and cover up — long trails cross open rock with no shade at all, and the dry heat tires hikers far faster than they expect.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cool off in the Natural Pool

    Cool off in the Natural Pool

    Climb down into the canyon to the Piscine Naturelle, a clear pool ringed by palms at the foot of the sandstone walls. The water comes straight out of the rock and stays cold enough to shock after a hot walk across the open plateau. Most walkers save it for the middle of the day's trek rather than the start.

  2. 2

    Drop into a canyon for shade and lemurs

    Drop into a canyon for shade and lemurs

    Cross the open plateau of grass and bare rock, then drop through a gap in the wall into one of Isalo's canyons. The change is immediate: the floor is shaded and damp, and a stream runs beneath pandanus palms. Watch the trees along the water for ring-tailed lemurs and for Verreaux's sifakas, the white lemurs that leap from trunk to trunk overhead, most active in the cool hours at either end of the day.

  3. 3

    Trek among the wind-cut spires

    Trek among the wind-cut spires

    Follow the marked plateau trails out among the wind-cut sandstone spires and flat-topped domes that earn Isalo its 'Colorado' nickname. Walk this open, shadeless stretch in the cool early hours rather than at midday, when the bare rock leaves nowhere to escape the heat.

  4. 4

    Look up at the Bara tombs

    Look up at the Bara tombs

    The tombs sit in hollows and ledges high in the sandstone walls above the canyon floors, and the harder a niche is to reach, the greater the honour it carries. These are graves still in use, not ruins, so you look at them from the canyon floor and keep your distance. From down there the piled stones and the zebu skulls on the ledges are clear enough.

  5. 5

    Reach the Fenêtre de l'Isalo before dusk

    Walk out to the natural rock arch off the road south of Ranohira and get into place before the light goes, since the massif holds its red glow for only a few short minutes. Stand to the west so the sinking sun sits inside the window, then linger as the savanna cools and the stars come out over the plateau.

Watch

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