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On the open steppe of Övörkhangai province in central Mongolia the grassland ends without warning at a gorge of black basalt, and when the river has water in it the Orkhon drops about twenty metres over that edge — the widest fall in the country. It only has water after the summer rains. The fall thunders through July and August, thins as the land dries, and in a lean year is down to a trickle by autumn. The rock it pours over came from lava that flooded this part of the valley some twenty thousand years ago, and the gorge is a fissure in that flow. The river seems to fall into a crack in the ground, with the steppe running on unbroken either side of it.\n\nLarch woods grow right up to the lip, threaded by short paths from one lookout to the next, which give you the fall head-on from the edge and then side-on from among the trees. They also give you the only shade for a long way. On the rocky high ground above the gorge stands an ovoo, a Mongolian sacred cairn of stones hung with blue silk scarves. The short climb to it gives you the best view there is: straight down the black gorge and out over the grassland the river crosses. This has been the seat of one steppe empire after another for two thousand years. The ruins of Karakorum, the Mongol capital, lie a few hours downstream, and nomads have grazed these pastures without a break the whole time. At the foot of the falls a scramble down the rocks reaches a pool that hits you as a shock of cold after the heat of the plain, and families camped on the rim swim in it. Then, for much of the winter, there is no waterfall at all: the river stops in mid-drop and the black gorge holds a wall of ice that does not move.","MN",2010,[115,120,125,162],9,"season|**Check that it is actually flowing before the long trip** — the falls need summer rain to run, and a lean year can leave the drop a mere trickle; ask your camp first.\naccess|**Come self-sufficient** — the falls sit on rough highland track with only nomad ger camps nearby, so carry what you need for the day.\nwater|**Reach the pool from downstream, and read the water** — the scramble to the base starts about 250 m below the falls; skip the swim when heavy rain makes the current fierce.\nsafety|**Nights turn cold even in July** — at this height on the steppe the temperature drops fast after dark, so pack windproof layers and sturdy shoes for the wet gorge.",[165,166,167,168],"MdFrfiaEsx0","xXoCBnB6WXc","bybFtRWVh3w","tx8fnYQ8Rls","Asia\u002FUlaanbaatar",{"gallery":171,"exps":184,"boxes":201,"seasons":212,"near":248,"peers":260},[172,174,176,178,180,182],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"serg_ulixes \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",{"url":175,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg0.webp",{"url":177,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":179,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":181,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":183,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fg4.webp",[185,189,193,197],{"title":186,"description":187,"imageUrl":188,"attribution":173},"Cool off in the pool","After the heat of the open steppe, the pool at the foot of the falls is a shock of cold. You swim in mountain-fed water in the shadow of the black basalt walls, the roar of the cascade filling the gorge.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":173},"Walk in the larch forest","Larch woods grow right up to the edge of the gorge, and short paths run through them from one lookout to the next along the rim. Walking between them gives you the falls from several angles — head-on from the lip, side-on from among the trees — and the shade is welcome, because there is none out on the open steppe. Come back as the sun drops and low light rakes the steppe, warming the black basalt to bronze while the grassland runs gold to the horizon.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":173},"Climb to the sacred ovoo","An ovoo is a Mongolian sacred cairn: a heap of stones hung with blue silk scarves and raised on high ground. The one here sits on the rocky summit above the falls, and the short climb to it leads to the best viewpoint around. From beside the cairn you look straight down the black gorge and out across the grassland the river crosses.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":173},"Explore the basalt fissure","The ground around the gorge is strewn with blocks of black basalt, left by the lava flows that buried this stretch of the valley roughly twenty thousand years ago. Walking out among them you can see the same rock stacked in sheets in the cliff walls, and how far the Orkhon has cut down through it since.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F411\u002Fe4.webp",[202,207],{"boxType":203,"title":204,"body":205,"deepBody":206,"sourceNote":157},"history","The valley of empires","The falls sit inside the Orkhon Valley Cultural Landscape, a UNESCO World Heritage site and, for more than two thousand years, the seat of one steppe empire after another.","Along this river the Turks left carved memorial stelae, the Uighurs built the city of Khar Balgas, and in the 13th century Chinggis Khaan's heirs raised Karakorum, capital of the Mongol Empire, a few hours downstream. Nomads have grazed these pastures without a break for millennia — the reason UNESCO listed the valley in 2004.",{"boxType":208,"title":209,"body":210,"deepBody":211,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A waterfall of ice","For much of the winter the falls freeze solid, and the black gorge fills with a still wall of ice.","Mongolian winters lock the river in ice for months, turning the cascade into hanging columns. Some years the site hosts a winter festival on the frozen Orkhon, with ice-climbing and old steppe games like knucklebone shooting and ice archery.",[213,218,225,229,234,239,243],{"phenomenon":214,"peakMonths":215,"note":216,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":90},"highwater",[120,125,162],"The falls run only once the summer rains fill the Orkhon — thundering through July and August, then thinning to a trickle by autumn, and freezing to ice in winter.",false,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":220,"note":223,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":224},"chapter_quiet",[90,95,100,221,222,130],10,11,"After the camps close in September the falls dwindle, and by midwinter they freeze into an ice wall on the black basalt. Cold sinks toward −20 °C and no camps run, so a cold-season visit is a private, self-sufficient trip over frozen track.",50,{"phenomenon":219,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":228},[105,110],"Thaw: the ice breaks up and the first ger camps reopen in May, but spring here is dry and the falls stay thin, with frosty dawns, the odd sleet shower, and a green steppe only just waking.",51,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":231,"note":232,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":233},"chapter_edge",[115],"Summer rains begin to build and the steppe turns green; the camps are open and the Orkhon is filling, so the falls run well, though short of the full July thunder still to come.",52,{"phenomenon":235,"peakMonths":236,"note":237,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_peak",[120,125],"The heavy summer rains fill the Orkhon and the falls hit their widest, thundering off the black basalt into the cold green pool. This is the warmest stretch, days near 24 °C, and every camp and track is open.",53,{"phenomenon":230,"peakMonths":240,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":242},[162],"The rains fade fast and the falls begin to thin, but they still run and the valley turns gold. The ger tent camps stay open to about the end of the month; then the cold shuts them and frost hardens the nights.",54,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":217,"sortOrder":247},"baseline",[],"Mongolia's widest waterfall drops from the steppe into a basalt gorge. 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