[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-bf38f26f34d2":3,"detail-extra-877":29,"categories-en":145,"travel-countries-en":276},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":21,"elevationM":22,"bestMonths":23,"tips":27,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":28,"timezone":18,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},877,"bf38f26f34d2","kulikalon-lakes","Kulikalon Lakes","A basin of glacial lakes at 2,800 metres in Tajikistan's Fann Mountains, under a five-thousand-metre granite wall, beside the last stands of high juniper.",2,6,68.16361111,39.25694444,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fcover.webp","Tajikistan","Fann Mountains",0,"nature",null,"The Kulikalon lakes lie in a basin at 2,800 metres in the Fann Mountains of Tajikistan, and granite goes straight up off the far shore. That wall is Mirali, 5,106 metres, with Maria beside it. Two glacier tongues built this basin: the moraines they left behind are the dams that hold the water, and what remains of the ice hangs in shaded niches on the wall above. Three or four hours of climbing from the alpine camp at Artuch, through juniper and old moraine, puts you on the lip of the basin with all of it open. Flat grassy patches beside the water give you the finest wild camping in the Fanns. In the evening the granite loses its colour long before the lake does, and the only sound left in the basin is the grazing herds.\n\nNobody has the place to themselves. Each summer the villages below drive goats, cattle and donkeys up to these pastures. Families camp along the far shore until the first snows push them down. Much of the milk becomes qurut: sour yoghurt, salted, rolled into hard white balls and dried in the sun, set out on cloth beside the tents through the middle of the day. Donkeys still carry the gear for trekking parties over the Alaudin pass, where the trail leaves for the next basin and lakes fed straight off the glaciers. A short spur climbs instead to Dushakha, two connected pools in a stonier, higher bowl that few walkers bother with. Almost none of the birds that matter here are waterbirds: Himalayan snowcock and Hume's lark work the scree, crimson-winged finch the boulder fields, and the white-winged grosbeak lives on juniper berries, which ties it to these woods. That juniper, the archa along the shore, is the scarcest thing in the basin. It grows so slowly that a trunk you could put your arms around may have been standing for centuries, and these are the largest stands left anywhere in the western Zeravshan, cut hard for firewood everywhere else.","TJ","Sughd Region",2800,[10,24,25,26],7,8,9,"access|**Everything starts at the Artuch alpine camp** at 2,200 metres, reached by shared taxi from Panjakent — the lakes lie six kilometres and 600 metres of climbing above it.\nmonths|**Aim for late July to early September**, when the passes are clear. Nights at 2,800 metres still drop close to freezing in high summer, so carry a proper sleeping bag.\nwater|**Kulikalon is shallow enough to swim in**, which is rare this high — the shallows warm through the afternoon, unlike the icy glacier-fed lakes over the Alaudin pass.\ncrowds|**The near shore fills with tents in August.** Walk twenty minutes round to the northern bays, where rock spurs cut the shoreline into private coves that most groups never reach.\nsafety|**Filter every drop you drink.** Hundreds of animals graze the shoreline pastures all summer, so lake and stream water needs treating even where it runs clear over stones.",[],{"gallery":30,"exps":43,"boxes":61,"seasons":77,"near":119,"peers":144},[31,33,35,37,39,41],{"url":13,"attribution":32},"Foto: Adam Harangozó \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":34,"attribution":32},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fg0.webp",{"url":36,"attribution":32},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":38,"attribution":32},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":40,"attribution":32},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":42,"attribution":32},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fg4.webp",[44,48,53,57],{"title":45,"description":46,"imageUrl":47,"attribution":32},"Carry on over the Alaudin pass","The trail does not end at Kulikalon. From the far shore it climbs to the Alaudin pass and drops into the next basin, where the lakes take their meltwater straight off the glaciers. Donkeys still carry the gear for trekking parties over the same crossing.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":49,"description":50,"imageUrl":51,"attribution":52},"Pitch a tent on the Kulikalon shore","Flat grassy patches beside the water make the finest wild camping in the Fanns, a few steps from the lake. In the evening the granite face of the Kulikalon Wall loses its colour long before the water does, and the only sound left in the basin is the grazing herds.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fe2.webp","Foto: Jaan Künnap \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":54,"description":55,"imageUrl":56,"attribution":32},"Detour to the twin Dushakha Lakes","A short side trail leads to Dushakha, two connected turquoise pools in a stonier, higher basin than the main lake, and few trekkers make the extra climb. A steep pull above them gains a ridge looking straight down on both, with ice still lodged in the shaded hollows of the wall opposite.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":58,"description":59,"imageUrl":60,"attribution":32},"Watch qurut drying at a summer camp","The families camped along the far shore milk their goats and cows here all summer. Much of that milk becomes qurut: sour yoghurt, salted, rolled into hard white balls and dried in the sun to keep for winter. The balls sit out on cloth beside the tents through the middle of the day.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fe4.webp",[62,67,72],{"boxType":63,"title":64,"body":65,"deepBody":66,"sourceNote":18},"geology","What the ice left behind","Two glacier tongues built this basin. Their end moraines are the dams that hold the lakes today, and the ice that pushed them there has shrunk to a few short glaciers.","The first tongue left the moraine impounding Kulikalon itself, along with the stub glaciers still hanging in the shaded niches of the Kulikalon Wall. The second flowed off the flanks of Mirali and dropped its end moraine above Bibijonat, the long lake lying in the forest below. Melt from what remains, plus snow off the wall, is what keeps the basin filled.",{"boxType":68,"title":69,"body":70,"deepBody":71,"sourceNote":18},"wildlife","Why the scree matters more than the water","Almost none of the birds that make Kulikalon matter are waterbirds. They live on the loose scree above the shore and in the juniper woods below it.","Himalayan snowcock and Hume's lark work the scree, crimson-winged finch the boulder fields, Himalayan vulture the thermals off the wall. The white-winged grosbeak lives on juniper berries, which ties it to these woods. The saker falcon hunts over all of it — a species falling fast because it is trapped for falconry.",{"boxType":73,"title":74,"body":75,"deepBody":76,"sourceNote":18},"did_you_know","The trees are older than they look","The gnarled archa along the shore is juniper, and it grows so slowly that a trunk you could put your arms around may have been standing for centuries.","The three junipers of the Zeravshan woods — Juniperus seravschanica, J. semiglobosa and J. turkestanica — commonly live 400 to 600 years, and ring counts have put individual trees well past a thousand. Locally all three go by one word, archa, and the differences show mainly in the cones.",[78,84,88,98,103,108,114],{"phenomenon":79,"peakMonths":80,"note":81,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":83},"transhumance",[10,24,25,26],"Families from the villages below Artuch drive goats, cattle and donkeys up to the 2,800 m basin for the summer, camping on the far shore of Kulikalon until the first snows push them down.",false,1,{"phenomenon":85,"peakMonths":86,"note":87,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":9},"snowmelt",[10,24],"Meltwater off the Chimtarga glacier and the snowfields of the Kulikalon Wall fills the basin, so lake levels run highest in early summer — while snow can still block the passes into June.",{"phenomenon":89,"peakMonths":90,"note":96,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":97},"chapter_closed",[83,9,91,92,93,94,95],3,4,5,11,12,"Snow and avalanche lock the basin and the six-kilometre climb from Artuch. The camp at 2,200 m reopens on 1 May, but the trail up stays snow-covered and unsafe until June — and the thaw date moves each year.",50,{"phenomenon":99,"peakMonths":100,"note":101,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":102},"chapter_edge",[10],"June opens the basin: snow retreats off the shore, the juniper and pastures green, and the first shepherds drive their herds up. Meltwater runs the lakes to their highest, so stream crossings are dangerous and the passes only clear late in the month.",51,{"phenomenon":104,"peakMonths":105,"note":106,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":107},"chapter_peak",[24,25,26],"The full season: passes clear, the loop over the Alaudin pass runs, and families' camps ring the far shore with goats, cattle and donkeys. Afternoons warm the shallows enough to swim — rare this high — though nights still drop toward freezing.",52,{"phenomenon":109,"peakMonths":110,"note":112,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":113},"chapter_quiet",[111],10,"With the Artuch camp shut on 1 October and the shepherds and their herds gone down the valley, the lakes and the wall are yours alone. But nights are hard-freezing, nothing is serviced, and the first snows can seal the basin any week.",53,{"phenomenon":115,"peakMonths":116,"note":117,"requiresDarkSky":82,"sortOrder":118},"baseline",[],"The lakes, the juniper woods and the Kulikalon Wall stand all year; snow shuts the basin from November to May.",99,[120,131],{"id":121,"publicId":122,"slug":123,"name":124,"shortDescription":125,"categoryId":9,"importance":91,"lng":126,"lat":127,"coverImageUrl":128,"country":14,"region":129,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":130,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},178,"71e972fb2b7f","iskanderkul","Lake Iskanderkul","A triangular turquoise lake at 2,195 metres in Tajikistan's Fann Mountains, dammed by a fallen mountainside and carrying the Persian form of Alexander's 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