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The colour is in the water and not in the sky: a jar of it stays pink on your windowsill. The lake is many times saltier than the sea, and almost nothing can live in it. Salt-loving algae and archaea flood their cells with red and orange pigments, and those pigments are sunscreen — a shield against light that would otherwise finish them in brine this bright. The shade has a dial, and the dial is salt. Months of evaporation concentrate the brine and deepen the pink; a wet winter thins it back towards grey-blue.\n\nAlmost everyone meets it from a light aircraft. The planes run east from Esperance over the archipelago, and the hour you fly decides what you get: with the sun overhead the colour reads at its deepest and the seam against the navy ocean is sharpest. The island arrives in a single pass, low enough for you to pick out the salt crust at its edge. Behind it stands Flinders Peak, which Matthew Flinders climbed in 1802 to write down the coloured water below. He never had the view from overhead that now defines the place. There is one way to stand beside it. A licensed boat runs east from Esperance, tenders passengers onto Middle Island's beach and walks them up to the shore, and it sails only when the lake is worth the crossing. The same walk passes the ruins the island's early settlers left, and the camp of Black Jack Anderson, an American sealer turned pirate and the only one Australia is known to have had. Esperance has a second Pink Lake, on the mainland and far easier to reach. It stopped being pink in the mid-2000s, after a highway and a rail line cut the channels that had flushed salt through it. The water freshened, the microbes stopped making their pigment, and the town has been trying to take the name back ever since.","AU","Middle Island, Recherche Takımadaları",[90,95,100,105,110,115,120,125,162,163],9,10,"season|**Check what colour the lake is actually running before you go** — it is well short of the old electric pink, and recent passenger photos from the flight operators are the only honest guide.\naccess|**No road, no airstrip, no way to get yourself there** — Middle Island is reached only by scenic flight or cruise from Esperance, and the boat landings are paused while the lake is off-colour.\nview|**Skip the polarising filter behind the aircraft window** — polarised glass fights the perspex and can blotch the shot; ask for a seat on the lake side of the cabin instead.\nwildlife|**From June to October the same flight crosses whale water** — southern right and humpback whales move through the archipelago below, so scan the sea as well as the lake.",[166,167,168,169],"mM55lHx9duI","ILsUz_9L8mw","zHMyFY39kc0","p4PUM3sxfMw",{"gallery":171,"exps":186,"boxes":195,"seasons":211,"near":242,"peers":243},[172,174,177,180,182,184],{"url":152,"attribution":173},"Foto: Yodaobione \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":175,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Aussie Oc \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: PruneCron \u002F CC0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":183,"attribution":176},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fg3.webp",{"url":185,"attribution":173},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fg4.webp",[187,191],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":173},"Time the flight for midday, when the pink runs deepest","Light aircraft out of Esperance run east over the archipelago, and the hour you fly decides what you get. With the sun overhead the colour reads at its deepest and the seam against the navy ocean is sharpest. Middle Island then arrives in a single pass, low enough to pick out the salt crust at the lake's edge. Behind it stands Flinders Peak, the hill Matthew Flinders climbed in 1802 to log the coloured water below, though he never got the overhead view that now defines the place.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":176},"Cross to Middle Island and stand at the lake itself","A licensed boat runs east from Esperance, tenders passengers onto Middle Island's beach and walks them up to the lake — the only way to meet the colour at ground level rather than from the air. The same walk passes the ruins the island's early settlers left and the campsite of Black Jack Anderson. It sails only when the lake is worth the crossing, and it is on hold while the water runs brown.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F480\u002Fe4.webp",[196,201,206],{"boxType":197,"title":198,"body":199,"deepBody":200,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","The pigment is sunscreen","The microbes that colour the lake are not decorating it. The red and orange carotenoids they pump out are sunscreen, shielding them from fierce light in water too salty for almost anything else.","Dunaliella salina floods its cells with beta-carotene, the same orange pigment found in carrots, while salt-loving archaea make a red one called bacterioruberin. Both work as a shield against ultraviolet light. Carotenoids from algae and brine shrimp are also, through the food chain, what turn flamingos pink.",{"boxType":202,"title":203,"body":204,"deepBody":205,"sourceNote":157},"history","Australia's only pirate lived here","In the 1830s Middle Island was the base of John \"Black Jack\" Anderson, an American sealer turned pirate — the only pirate Australia is known to have had.","Anderson arrived from Kangaroo Island on the cutter Mountaineer in 1835 and chose Middle Island because it was one of the few in the archipelago with fresh water. His gang hunted seals and robbed ships running between the western and eastern colonies. He was murdered by his own men and is thought to lie buried somewhere on the island.",{"boxType":207,"title":208,"body":209,"deepBody":210,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The Pink Lake that is not pink","Esperance has a second, far more reachable \"Pink Lake\" on the mainland. It has not turned pink since the mid-2000s, and the town has been trying to take the name back.","Lake Spencer was officially renamed Pink Lake in 1966. A highway and a rail line then cut the channels that flushed salt through the system; salinity fell, the pigment-making microbes stopped colouring the water, and the pink went with it. Tourism Esperance has since lobbied to restore the original name, so that visitors stop arriving expecting Hillier's colour.",[212,217,221,226,231,237],{"phenomenon":213,"peakMonths":214,"note":215,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":90},"colorpeak",[90,95,100],"By late summer, months of evaporation concentrate the brine to its saltiest, and the pigment-making microbes turn the water its strongest bubblegum pink; a wet winter thins it back out.",false,{"phenomenon":218,"peakMonths":219,"note":220,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":95},"whales",[115,120,125,162,163],"Southern right and humpback whales migrate through the Recherche Archipelago below the Esperance flight path, so a winter scenic flight to the lake often doubles as whale spotting.",{"phenomenon":222,"peakMonths":223,"note":224,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":225},"chapter_peak",[90,95,100,105],"High summer into early autumn is the driest stretch: months of evaporation concentrate the brine to its saltiest. In a normal year the pink runs to its deepest and most electric - the best odds of the classic reveal from the air.",50,{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":228,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":230},"chapter_edge",[110,115,120,125,162,163],"Autumn and winter rains dilute the brine, so the pink softens and can fade toward grey-blue.",51,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":235,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":236},"chapter_quiet",[234,130],11,"The whales have gone and the winter rains have eased; evaporation is deepening the brine back toward its summer pink, though not yet at full strength. Nothing closes - the Esperance scenic flights run year-round.",52,{"phenomenon":238,"peakMonths":239,"note":240,"requiresDarkSky":216,"sortOrder":241},"baseline",[],"The salt pan and its white crust sit on an uninhabited island all year, reached only by flight or cruise from Esperance. 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