[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-52782bf2bdee":3,"categories-en":28,"detail-extra-883":165,"travel-countries-en":274},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":18,"elevationM":21,"bestMonths":22,"tips":26,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":27,"timezone":18,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},883,"52782bf2bdee","lope-national-park","Lopé National Park","A Gabonese park where ice-age grassland still breaks the rainforest apart, opening sightlines onto forest elephants and mandrill columns hundreds strong.",5,6,11.5833,-0.1833,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fcover.webp","Gabon","Ogooué-Ivindo Province",0,"nature",null,"Lopé keeps patches of ice-age grassland inside its rainforest, and those openings are the only reason you see anything here at all. The savanna breaks the forest apart along the Ogooué in central Gabon, relic grass from a drier Africa that should have been swallowed long ago: 1,450 millimetres of rain falls on it a year, enough to grow rainforest straight across. Fire is what saves it: the park now sets controlled burns, because one patch left alone turned into young woodland within fifteen years. What the grass buys is sightlines. Forest elephants normally keep to thick cover — smaller than savanna elephants, with straight tusks pointing downward — and almost nowhere else in their range can you watch them out on open ground. You take a place above the clearings towards dusk and wait for the treeline to open.\n\nThe mandrills are the other thing the openings give. A horde is made up of females and their young. The adult males, the ones with the red and blue faces, join only while the females are cycling, from about June to September — which is when troops of 600 and more spill across the grass near the research station. Researchers argue that is what drove the males' extreme colour: with no lasting bond between partners, the signal has to do all the work. Guides track radio-collared animals from the station, and when a horde finally crosses open savanna the forest seems to empty into the grass. Short walks and dugout trips along the slow Ogooué reach outcrops where iron points hammered spirals, circles, lizards and double-bladed throwing knives into the stone about 2,000 years ago. Nobody signed or dated them; archaeologists placed them by matching the designs to pottery nearby. The same trees here have been checked for ripe fruit since 1986. In the 1980s roughly one in ten carried any; today it is closer to one in fifty, and between 2008 and 2018 the body condition of Lopé's fruit-eating elephants fell by 11 per cent. The openings that let you watch them are also how anyone can see that they are getting thinner.","GA",200,[10,23,24,25],7,8,9,"permit|**Mandrill tracking is a permitted, guided half-day on foot** — trekkers set out from the SEGC research station and home in on radio-collared animals, so a sighting is likely but never promised.\nseason|**Dry-season skies here are grey, not blue** — June to September brings almost no rain but heavy low cloud and morning mist, so expect soft, flat light rather than hard equatorial sun.\nwildlife|**Carry binoculars** — elephants and buffalo appear at the forest edge across open grass, often far off, and the savanna gives you long, unhurried sightlines that rainforest never will.",[],[29,34,39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,134,138,142,146,150,155,160],{"id":30,"slug":31,"name":32,"color":33},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":35,"slug":36,"name":37,"color":38},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":130,"slug":131,"name":132,"color":133},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":9,"slug":135,"name":136,"color":137},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":10,"slug":139,"name":140,"color":141},"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":23,"slug":143,"name":144,"color":145},"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":24,"slug":147,"name":148,"color":149},"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":151,"slug":152,"name":153,"color":154},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":156,"slug":157,"name":158,"color":159},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":161,"slug":162,"name":163,"color":164},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":166,"exps":182,"boxes":198,"seasons":214,"near":249,"peers":273},[167,169,172,175,177,180],{"url":13,"attribution":168},"Photo: Ngangorica \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":170,"attribution":171},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fg0.webp","Photo: Forest Service Photography \u002F Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":173,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fg1.webp","Photo: Vincent.vaquin \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":176,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fg2.webp",{"url":178,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fg3.webp","Photo: David Stanley \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":181,"attribution":179},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fg4.webp",[183,187,191,195],{"title":184,"description":185,"imageUrl":186,"attribution":168},"Watch forest elephants graze the savanna","Forest elephants normally keep to thick cover. They are smaller than savanna elephants, with straight tusks pointing downward, and almost nowhere else in their range can you watch them out on open grass. Take a place above the clearings towards dusk and wait for the treeline to open.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":171},"Hike the grass ridges above the Ogooué","Trails climb out of the valley to open ridges where the mosaic reads at once: rainforest breaking into rolling savanna as far as the horizon. Start early and the Chaillu foothills to the south are still wrapped in cloud, which the equatorial sun burns off within the first hour.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":174},"Trace 2,000-year-old rock engravings","Short walks and dugout trips along the wide, slow Ogooué reach the engraved outcrops, where the stone carries spirals, concentric circles, lizards and the double-bladed throwing knives their makers used. They were hammered out with iron points around 2,000 years ago, and no one has ever fully read them.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F883\u002Fe3.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":18,"attribution":18},"Track a mandrill horde across the grass","Guides work out from the research station on the trail of radio-collared animals. When a horde finally crosses open savanna the forest seems to empty into the grass: hundreds of monkeys at once, moving in a churn of shrieks and dust. Nothing else in the primate world travels in numbers like this.",[199,204,209],{"boxType":200,"title":201,"body":202,"deepBody":203,"sourceNote":18},"wildlife","The males are only visitors","A mandrill horde is made up of females and their young. The adult males, the ones with the red and blue faces, are not permanent members at all.","Three years of counts at Lopé found breeding males entering a horde only when the females began cycling, then leaving again once the cycles stopped. Researchers argue this is what drove the males' extreme colour: where no lasting bond exists between partners, the signal has to do all the work.",{"boxType":205,"title":206,"body":207,"deepBody":208,"sourceNote":18},"history","Dated by the pots next door","Among the spirals, the engravers carved the tools of their own age — hoes, axes and double-bladed throwing knives — hammering the rock with iron points.","Nobody signed or dated the carvings. Archaeologists matched their concentric-circle motifs to the designs on Okanda pottery, dated to roughly 2,300–1,700 years ago, and placed the engravers among the iron-working communities then moving south through Central Africa.",{"boxType":210,"title":211,"body":212,"deepBody":213,"sourceNote":18},"did_you_know","Fifty trees for one meal","The scale of the fruit shortage is easy to picture. In the 1980s roughly one tree in ten here carried ripe fruit; today it is closer to one in fifty.","The same trees have been checked since 1986. As the region warmed by close to a degree, fruit grew steadily scarcer, and between 2008 and 2018 the body condition of Lopé's fruit-eating forest elephants fell by 11 percent — hunger measured on the animals themselves.",[215,220,224,229,233,238,244],{"phenomenon":216,"peakMonths":217,"note":218,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":115},"migration",[10,23,24,25],"Adult males join the female hordes only while the females are cycling, from about June to September, and troops of 600 and more spill across the open savanna near the research station — thickest in July and August.",false,{"phenomenon":221,"peakMonths":222,"note":223,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":120},"fogsea",[10,23,24,25],"The dry season here is grey rather than blue: almost no rain falls, but low cloud settles on the Chaillu foothills and mist lies in the savanna grass until the sun burns it off mid-morning.",{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":226,"note":227,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":228},"chapter_quiet",[115,120],"A short dry lull breaks the rains — the sunniest, warmest weeks of the year — but the mandrills are scattered in the forest, where the females are birthing. Trails firm briefly; nothing closes and the train runs, yet the savanna spectacle is months off.",50,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":230,"note":231,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":232},[125,130,9],"The minor rains build through the warmest months and the savanna greens over; the mandrill hordes are still dispersed. Nothing closes — the Ogooué boat and the night train run — but come for green forest and quiet outcrops, not the grass-borne hordes.",51,{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":235,"note":236,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":237},"chapter_peak",[10,23,24,25],"The long dry season: trails firm up, the mandrill hordes — 600-plus animals — pour across the savanna near the research station, thickest in July and August, and elephants and buffalo work the open grass. Skies stay cool and grey, not blue.",52,{"phenomenon":225,"peakMonths":239,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":243},[240,241,151],10,11,"The major rains return in October, the heaviest of the year, and the mandrill hordes break up into the forest. Nothing shuts — the night train still runs and the engravings stay open — but the massed-primate spectacle is over until June.",53,{"phenomenon":245,"peakMonths":246,"note":247,"requiresDarkSky":219,"sortOrder":248},"baseline",[],"Forest elephants and buffalo step from the treeline onto open grass in the cool hours all year, a slow boat on the Ogooué opens sightlines the forest denies, and the 2,000-year-old rock engravings never close.",99,[250,261],{"id":251,"publicId":252,"slug":253,"name":254,"shortDescription":255,"categoryId":35,"importance":125,"lng":256,"lat":257,"coverImageUrl":258,"country":14,"region":259,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":260,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},732,"0661a238d2ed","loango-national-park","Loango National Park","A Gabonese coast where forest elephants, hippos and buffalo walk out of the rainforest onto empty Atlantic beaches, with gorillas, lagoons and calving humpbacks behind.",9.566667,-2.166667,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F732\u002Fcover.webp","Ogooué-Maritime Province",313794.61178222,{"id":262,"publicId":263,"slug":264,"name":265,"shortDescription":266,"categoryId":115,"importance":130,"lng":267,"lat":268,"coverImageUrl":269,"country":270,"region":271,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":272,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},727,"ed012369bc72","lobe-falls-kribi","Lobé Falls","A Cameroonian rainforest river that reaches the Atlantic as a waterfall, dropping 20 metres across a 100-metre front, sacred to the peoples who share it.",9.883,2.917,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F727\u002Fcover.webp","Cameroon","Kribi, South 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