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Mljet

Mljet

IslandsCroatiaDubrovnik-Neretva,Croatia

The greenest island in the Croatian Adriatic, wrapped around two saltwater lakes that breathe with the tide, with a twelfth-century monastery on an inner islet.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

The sweet spot: the sea still holds about 23°C in September and 20°C into October as the heat and crowds fade. The electric train stops around mid-September and services thin, but the park stays open and the warm swimming lingers into early autumn.


Year-round Mljet's two tidal saltwater lakes, its island monastery and its pine forest are here year-round. From June to September the sea is warm enough to swim off the rocks, and the water stays flat and still early in the day.

Mljet is the greenest island in the Croatian Adriatic, a long ridge of pine south of Dubrovnik, and its western third is a national park built around two lakes that are not fresh water at all. The Adriatic found a crack in the limestone, came in and never got back out. The Great Lake and the Small Lake still fill and empty with the tide through a narrow neck, where the current runs like a river and turns around every six hours. A flat path rings the Great Lake, shaded almost the whole way by Aleppo pines leaning out over the water. You walk or cycle it in a couple of hours, dropping onto the warm rock slabs to swim wherever the trees open. Kayaks go out onto the sheltered arms, where the colour shifts from deep blue to pale green over the bright limestone floor, and the crossing into the Small Lake goes easiest near slack water. A shuttle boat carries you over the Great Lake to the islet of St Mary. Benedictine monks from Puglia were given it in 1151, built their monastery over Roman ruins and held the island for more than six centuries. They were turned out under Napoleon in 1808. A café works out of the rooms they lived in, and the coffee is ordinary; what you are there for is a stone courtyard on an islet in the middle of a saltwater lake. On the wild south coast a sea cave has collapsed open at the waterline, and islanders hold it to be Calypso's, where the nymph kept Odysseus for seven years. You swim into it on a calm day, when the light comes in under the surface and the whole cavern goes electric blue. Not everything that arrived here was invited. In 1910 the Austro-Hungarian authorities let Indian mongooses loose to clear the island of its horned vipers, and within twenty years the snakes had all but gone. The mongooses moved on to the birds and lizards, and one still crosses the shore path ahead of you.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Arrive early or stay the night — the first shuttle boats and day-trippers reach the lakes mid-morning, so dawn on the shore path is when the water lies mirror-still and empty.
  • Swim the open bays, not the narrows — the channels between the lakes funnel a strong tidal current that runs fastest mid-tide and can be hard to swim against.
  • Aim for late spring or September — May and June bring warm water and resin-scented pines without the ferry crowds and hard heat of July and August.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Boat out to the monastery islet

    Boat out to the monastery islet

    A short shuttle ride carries you across the Great Lake to the islet of St Mary, where a twelfth-century Benedictine monastery stands among cypresses and olive trees. Walk the cloister, step into the Romanesque church, and look back at the stone walls doubled in the still water. Then take a table in the stone courtyard, where a café now occupies rooms Benedictine monks lived in for more than six centuries. The coffee is nothing special; you come for the place — a monastery courtyard on an islet in the middle of a saltwater lake.

  2. 2

    Kayak the saltwater lakes

    Kayak the saltwater lakes

    Push a kayak out onto Veliko Jezero and paddle the sheltered arms of the lake, where the water shifts from deep blue to pale green over the bright limestone floor. The two lakes are joined by a narrow channel where the tide runs hard and changes direction every six hours, so cross into Malo Jezero near slack water, when the current eases. Stay out as the sun drops: the forested ridges glow copper, the day boats leave, and the water falls completely still.

  3. 3

    Circle the Great Lake on foot or by bike

    Circle the Great Lake on foot or by bike

    A flat path rings Veliko Jezero, shaded almost the whole way by Aleppo pines that lean out over the water. Walk it in about two hours or rent a bike near the entrance, stopping to swim off the warm rocks wherever the trees open onto the shore.

  4. 4

    Swim into Odysseus's cave

    Swim into Odysseus's cave

    On the wild south coast, a collapsed sea cave opens at the waterline — the grotto where legend says Calypso held Odysseus. Reach it by boat or by a steep scramble down, then swim in on a calm day, when sunlight enters underwater and turns the whole cavern electric blue.

Watch

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