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About 800 of them live here, more than anywhere else in Ghana. You go out behind an armed Ghana Wildlife ranger, twice a day, for a couple of hours. The early walk is the one that matters, before the heat clamps down. The ranger reads the wind and the mood of the bulls, and the group rounds a thicket to find an elephant stripping bark a few dozen metres off. On foot the small things take over: the width of a print in the dust, the tension in fresh spoor, the sound of a branch going before you see anything. There are lions and leopards here, but they are hardly ever seen, so what Mole gives is the walk itself, the herds of kob out on the grass and the shaggy defassa waterbuck near the water.\n\nThe rest of the day belongs to the escarpment. The motel and the lodge stand on the cliff edge above two waterholes. From the terrace you look down on elephants wading in to drink through the afternoon heat, hosing mud over their backs while warthogs and antelope wait their turn. As the heat goes, the savanna runs unbroken to the horizon in amber light and the birdcalls give way to the sounds of night. The village at the gate, Larabanga, keeps one of the oldest mosques in West Africa: whitewashed mud and timber, its walls bristling with wooden stakes, held locally to be from the fifteenth century. The park was set aside as a game reserve in 1958, and in 1961 the people living inside its boundaries were moved out. Nothing much separates the two sides now. Baboons lope across the motel grounds and warthogs kneel to graze the lawns. 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Walks leave twice a day, at 7:00 and mid-afternoon, run about two hours, and need no booking.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F319\u002Fe1.webp","Alex Levis \u002F Pexels",{"title":195,"description":196,"imageUrl":197,"attribution":198},"Watch elephants bathe below the escarpment","From the motel terrace on the cliff edge, look down onto the waterholes where elephants wade in to drink and cool off through the afternoon heat. In the dry months whole families gather below, hosing mud over their backs while warthogs and antelope wait their turn. As the day cools the savanna stretches unbroken to the horizon in amber light, and the birdcalls give way to the sounds of the coming night.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F319\u002Fe2.webp","ubeyonroad \u002F Pexels",{"title":200,"description":201,"imageUrl":202,"attribution":203},"Pick out the kob and waterbuck","Beyond the elephants, the grasslands hold a crowd of antelope — herds of kob, shaggy defassa waterbuck near the water, and the occasional roan or hartebeest. Learn to read the grass and you start noticing them everywhere, grazing in the low golden light.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F319\u002Fe3.webp","Crisbel Solano \u002F Pexels",{"title":205,"description":206,"imageUrl":207,"attribution":208},"Share the camp with baboons and warthogs","At Mole the wildlife does not stay in the bush. Troops of olive baboons lope across the motel grounds, warthogs kneel to graze the lawns, and now and then an elephant wanders through — so keep your door shut and your snacks well hidden.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F319\u002Fe5.webp","Rachel Zack \u002F Flickr (CC BY 2.0)",[210,215,220],{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":157},"culture","The ancient mosque at the gate","The village at the park entrance, Larabanga, guards one of West Africa's oldest mosques — a small mud-and-timber building in the Sudanese style, its walls bristling with wooden stakes.","Local tradition dates the Larabanga Mosque to the fifteenth century, raised where a trader is said to have dreamed he should stop. Whitewashed mud over a timber frame, with pyramidal towers and rows of protruding stakes that double as scaffolding for repairs, it is the classic Sahelian form. Its keepers still care for a centuries-old handwritten Quran kept inside.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":157},"history","The park was not always empty","In 1961, three years after Mole was set aside as a game reserve, the people living inside its boundaries were moved out beyond them.","The area was gazetted as a national park in 1971. Today Larabanga and other villages ring the park, while rangers walk anti-poaching patrols across nearly 4,600 square kilometres of savanna.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","Elephants at the swimming pool","When even the waterholes shrink, elephants walk up among the chalets and dip their trunks into the pool before staff can wave them off.","As the bush dries out the herds funnel toward the last water below the escarpment — the same pools the motel terrace overlooks. Between those pools and the chalets above them there is barely a fence, which is the whole character of the place.",[226,232,236,243],{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":228,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":231},"chapter_peak",[90,95,162,130],"Rivers shrink to the waterholes below the motel, and elephants, kob and buffalo crowd them to drink. Herds are easiest to track on foot at dawn, and from December the harmattan hazes the sky and cools the nights.",false,50,{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":235},[100],"March is the driest, hottest month. The waterholes shrink further and draw Mole's biggest, most reliable animal gatherings, but afternoons climb toward 40°C, so walk at dawn and be back at the pool before nine.",51,{"phenomenon":237,"peakMonths":238,"note":241,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":242},"chapter_quiet",[105,110,115,120,125,239,240],9,10,"From April the first storms break the heat and green the savanna, and birding peaks as migrants arrive from the Sahel. But elephants disperse far from the motel and sightings grow unpredictable. Nothing closes, though muddy tracks and tall undergrowth make the walks harder.",52,{"phenomenon":244,"peakMonths":245,"note":246,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":247},"baseline",[],"Mole's elephants and savanna wildlife are here year-round. 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