[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-7db567b25c92":3,"categories-en":38,"detail-extra-186":172,"travel-countries-en":339},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":7,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":21,"elevationM":22,"bestMonths":23,"tips":31,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":32,"timezone":37,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},186,"7db567b25c92","mondulkiri","Mondulkiri","A cool plateau of grass hills and pine at 800 metres in Cambodia, where retired elephants roam forest holding almost every black-shanked douc left.",5,7,107.188,12.4528,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fcover.webp","Cambodia",0,1,"nature",null,"Mondulkiri is a plateau of grass hills, pine and red earth at 800 metres in eastern Cambodia, and it is the one corner of the country where you want a jacket at breakfast. December and January mornings can fall below twenty degrees. Height does it: the hills stay green long after the lowlands have dried out, and Merkus pine grows here in open groves and nowhere else in Cambodia. The plateau is Bunong country, and for the Bunong an elephant is not livestock but family: named, inherited down the generations, mourned when it dies. About seventy captive elephants are left in the whole country. The camps here take them out of work rather than into it. No rides, no tricks, no feeding: you walk behind an animal while it strips bark, throws dust over its back and dozes, with its Bunong mahout alongside. Roughly half still belong to the families, who are paid to let them retire into the forest; their mahouts come too.\n\nBou Sra falls in three steps, and the middle one shakes the air: a broad curtain that lands hard enough to throw spray back up the gorge and hold a rainbow in it. It is heaviest as the monsoon ends. Romanear, southeast of the town, is the opposite: a low, wide curtain over a ledge with pools shallow enough to sit in. From the ridge they call Samot Cheur, the forest sea, the canopy rolls to the horizon with no road, roof or field in it. Under that canopy is Keo Seima, which holds something like 25,000 black-shanked doucs, almost the whole species; the next largest group, in Vietnam, is about five hundred. The gibbons are the reason for the dark start. You leave the bamboo camp before dawn and wait in the trees until a pair begins a rising, whooping duet that carries a kilometre, and your Bunong guide walks you straight at it. The family overhead stopped minding people years ago. Nobody fed them and nobody tamed them; it took years of following one group from its first call to dusk, simply being there.","KH","Sen Monorom",800,[16,24,9,25,10,26,27,28,29,30],2,6,8,9,10,11,12,"wildlife|**The gibbons sing for roughly half an hour after first light** — that is why Jahoo sends you out in the dark. Once the song stops, finding them in the canopy gets far harder.\nmonths|**March and April are the hazy months** — farmers burn their fields across the region and a veil of smoke settles over the hills, flattening the long views from the ridges.\npermit|**The elephant valley and the gibbon camp both take only small numbers** and fill through the cool season, so places at either go early in the dry-season peak.\nsafety|**From June to October the tracks turn to mud, and the leeches come with them** — closed shoes and long socks are enough, but sandals are not.",[33,34,35,36],"B89UdDFFW7s","lTd7FzRuY0U","jnodajhoEN0","ZxT3FZ0KGVc","Asia\u002FPhnom_Penh",[39,44,49,54,59,64,69,74,79,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,128,132,137,142,146,150,154,158,162,167],{"id":40,"slug":41,"name":42,"color":43},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":45,"slug":46,"name":47,"color":48},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":50,"slug":51,"name":52,"color":53},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":55,"slug":56,"name":57,"color":58},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":60,"slug":61,"name":62,"color":63},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":65,"slug":66,"name":67,"color":68},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":70,"slug":71,"name":72,"color":73},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":75,"slug":76,"name":77,"color":78},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":80,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":16,"slug":125,"name":126,"color":127},"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":24,"slug":129,"name":130,"color":131},"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":133,"slug":134,"name":135,"color":136},3,"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":138,"slug":139,"name":140,"color":141},4,"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":9,"slug":143,"name":144,"color":145},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":25,"slug":147,"name":148,"color":149},"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":10,"slug":151,"name":152,"color":153},"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":26,"slug":155,"name":156,"color":157},"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":30,"slug":159,"name":160,"color":161},"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":163,"slug":164,"name":165,"color":166},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":168,"slug":169,"name":170,"color":171},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":173,"exps":191,"boxes":209,"seasons":225,"near":263,"peers":338},[174,176,179,182,185,188],{"url":13,"attribution":175},"Ieng Pisey \u002F Pexels",{"url":177,"attribution":178},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fg0.webp","Kiensvay \u002F Wikimedia Commons",{"url":180,"attribution":181},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fg1.webp","Sergey Polyakov \u002F Pexels",{"url":183,"attribution":184},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fg2.webp","Claire Mitsuki \u002F Pexels",{"url":186,"attribution":187},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fg3.webp","Federico Abis \u002F Pexels",{"url":189,"attribution":190},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fg4.webp","Axel Robert \u002F Unsplash",[192,197,202,206],{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Follow the elephants that no longer work","These animals were retired out of logging teams and tourist saddles, and the day is deliberately uneventful: you walk behind them through the forest while they strip bark, throw dust over their backs and doze. No rides, no tricks, no feeding. A Bunong mahout stays with each elephant, and your job is to keep back and watch.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fe1.webp","Morgann McKunes \u002F Pexels",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":201},"Stand under Bou Sra, then sit in Romanear","Bou Sra falls in three steps, and the middle one shakes the air — a broad curtain that lands hard enough to throw spray back up the gorge and hang a rainbow in it. Paths and platforms run down the side, so you meet it from the top, from the lip and from the pool at its foot. Romanear, 18 kilometres southeast of Sen Monorom, is the opposite: a low, wide curtain over a rock ledge with pools shallow enough to sit in.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fe2.webp","Thượng Hy \u002F Pexels",{"title":203,"description":204,"imageUrl":205,"attribution":190},"Look out over Samot Cheur, the sea of forest","Samot Cheur is Khmer for \"the forest sea,\" and from the ridge the name explains itself: canopy rolling to the horizon with no road, roof or field anywhere in it. It is the clearest measure of how much forest this province still has — and of how much there is left to lose.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F186\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":207,"description":208,"imageUrl":18,"attribution":18},"Track the Jahoo gibbons by their morning song","You leave the bamboo camp in the dark and wait in the trees. Somewhere above, a pair starts up: a rising, whooping duet that carries a kilometre through the canopy. Your Bunong guide walks you straight at the sound, until you are standing under a family of yellow-cheeked crested gibbons that stopped caring about people years ago.",[210,215,220],{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":18},"culture","The elephant in the family","For the Bunong an elephant is not livestock but a family member — named, inherited down the generations like an heirloom, and mourned when it dies.","Bunong households kept elephants for hauling and for ceremony, and the animal passed to the heirs. The Elephant Valley Project works with that system instead of against it. About half of its elephants are still privately owned by Bunong families or communities, who are paid to let them retire into the forest. Their mahouts are hired to come with them. Around 70 captive elephants are left in all of Cambodia.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":18},"wildlife","What \"habituated\" actually costs","The gibbons at Jahoo are the only habituated groups of their species anywhere. Getting there took years of walking after one family that wanted nothing to do with people.","Habituation is patience, not taming. A team follows a group from its first call at dawn until it beds down at dusk, day after day, year after year, until the gibbons stop treating a human on the forest floor as a threat. They are never fed and never handled — the whole method is simply being there. It is the difference between hearing a gibbon leave and standing under one.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":18},"did_you_know","Where Cambodians go to feel cold","Mondulkiri is the one corner of the country where you want a jacket at breakfast: on the plateau, December and January mornings can drop below 20°C.","Height does it. Sen Monorom sits near 800 metres, averages about 23.7°C over the year and takes close to 1,900 millimetres of rain. That is far wetter and cooler than the lowlands, which is why the hills stay green long after the rest of Cambodia has dried out. The same height suits Merkus pine, which stands in open groves across the grass and grows nowhere in lowland Cambodia.",[226,231,235,239,244,249,254,258],{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":228,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":16},"colorpeak",[27,28,29],"The grass hills and pine slopes hold their deepest green as the monsoon tails off, then fade to dry brown by March, when the plateau hardens and the burning starts.",false,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":24},"fogsea",[28,29,30],"On cool mornings after the rains, low cloud pools in the valleys under the plateau rim at Samot Cheur and burns off within an hour or two of sunrise.",{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":237,"note":238,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":133},"highwater",[26,27,28],"Bou Sra's three drops run at full force through the late monsoon; September alone brings over 300 mm of rain to the plateau and the highest water of the year.",{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":241,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":243},"chapter_peak",[16,24,29,30],"The cool dry season: plateau mornings fall toward 18–20°C, the air is clear before the burning starts and the hills are still green. Every camp runs and books out — reserve the elephant valley and Jahoo weeks ahead.",50,{"phenomenon":245,"peakMonths":246,"note":247,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":248},"chapter_quiet",[133,138],"March and April are hot and hazy — farmers burn the fields and smoke flattens the long ridge views, while Bou Sra shrinks to a trickle. Nothing shuts: the douc, gibbon and elephant camps run daily through the heat.",51,{"phenomenon":250,"peakMonths":251,"note":252,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":253},"chapter_edge",[9,25,10],"The rains return and the plateau greens up fast. The waterfalls swell month by month and the forest comes back to life, but the red tracks turn to mud and the leeches arrive, so wear closed shoes and long socks. Travellers are few and the green is deep.",52,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":255,"note":256,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":257},[26,27,28],"Peak monsoon: Bou Sra thunders down its three steps at its fullest, the pine-and-grass hills hit their deepest green, and by October fog seas pool under the plateau rim at dawn. Expect mud and leeches on every trail.",53,{"phenomenon":259,"peakMonths":260,"note":261,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":262},"baseline",[],"The doucs, gibbons and rescued elephants are in these forests every month of the year.",99,[264,275,287,298,308,318,328],{"id":265,"publicId":266,"slug":267,"name":268,"shortDescription":269,"categoryId":24,"importance":25,"lng":270,"lat":271,"coverImageUrl":272,"country":14,"region":273,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":274,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},196,"4313357bed0c","yeak-laom","Yeak Laom Lake","A Cambodian crater lake so round its shore looks drawn with a compass, 800 metres across, ringed by forest the Tampuan hold as spirits' home.",107.0167,13.75,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F196\u002Fcover.webp","Ratanakiri",144708.20829712,{"id":276,"publicId":277,"slug":278,"name":279,"shortDescription":280,"categoryId":163,"importance":133,"lng":281,"lat":282,"coverImageUrl":283,"country":284,"region":285,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":15,"distanceM":286,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},389,"22fba79b7dee","4000-islands","Si Phan Don","Where the Mekong swells fourteen kilometres wide in southern Laos and breaks into hundreds of islands, then tips over the highest-volume waterfall in Southeast Asia.",105.84,14.05,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F389\u002Fcover.webp","Laos","Champasak",229268.60235014,{"id":288,"publicId":289,"slug":290,"name":291,"shortDescription":292,"categoryId":85,"importance":25,"lng":293,"lat":294,"coverImageUrl":295,"country":14,"region":296,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":15,"distanceM":297,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},189,"5c6e62932312","beng-mealea","Beng Mealea","One of the largest temples the Khmer Empire built, in northern Cambodia, left exactly where it collapsed, with no founding inscription and no known builder.",104.2384,13.4764,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F189\u002Fcover.webp","Siem Reap",339469.72904996,{"id":299,"publicId":300,"slug":301,"name":302,"shortDescription":303,"categoryId":85,"importance":9,"lng":304,"lat":305,"coverImageUrl":306,"country":14,"region":302,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":15,"distanceM":307,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},187,"9ed92a903474","preah-vihear","Preah Vihear","A Cambodian Khmer temple laid out as a climb — 800 metres through five gateways to a sanctuary standing on the lip of a 525-metre cliff.",104.68028,14.39056,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F187\u002Fcover.webp",345988.8028323,{"id":309,"publicId":310,"slug":311,"name":312,"shortDescription":313,"categoryId":16,"importance":25,"lng":314,"lat":315,"coverImageUrl":316,"country":14,"region":296,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":15,"distanceM":317,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},184,"0d7f5e1bd85c","phnom-kulen","Phnom Kulen","The Cambodian plateau Angkor was quarried from and the Khmer Empire declared on, its riverbed carved with lingas above a waterfall families swim in.",104.1392,13.5786,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F184\u002Fcover.webp",353394.28422832,{"id":319,"publicId":320,"slug":321,"name":322,"shortDescription":323,"categoryId":24,"importance":138,"lng":324,"lat":325,"coverImageUrl":326,"country":14,"region":296,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":327,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},183,"3b4cd98fc68c","tonle-sap","Tonlé Sap","A Cambodian lake whose river runs backwards each monsoon, swelling from 2,500 to 13,000 square kilometres and turning stilt villages into towns reached by boat.",103.9736,13.209,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F183\u002Fcover.webp",358831.01417168,{"id":329,"publicId":330,"slug":331,"name":332,"shortDescription":333,"categoryId":85,"importance":24,"lng":334,"lat":335,"coverImageUrl":336,"country":14,"region":296,"ratingAvg":15,"ratingCount":15,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":337,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},181,"47775c5e1d55","angkor-wat","Angkor Wat","The largest religious monument ever built, in Cambodia: five lotus-bud towers inside a moat five kilometres round, doubled in its pond at 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