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Nan Madol

Nan Madol

IslandsMicronesiaPohnpei,Micronesia

A stone city built on a Micronesian coral reef: a hundred artificial islets of basalt columns stacked crosswise like logs, with canals instead of streets.

September·Quiet month

Aug–Dec

Typhoon season is at its height, most storms falling August to November, and December stays wet; Pohnpei at 7°N lies in the storm belt, so systems can pass close. The site never closes — reach it between fronts and watch the forecast.



Year-round The basalt-column islets and canals of the Venice of the Pacific stand year-round. You reach them by small boat, or wade across at low tide. Rain is heavy in every month, easing only from January to March.

Nan Madol is a city of stone built on a coral reef off the island of Pohnpei, in the Federated States of Micronesia, and nobody carved any of it. The walls are basalt prisms, and Pohnpei's volcanic rock makes them that shape on its own: a thick lava flow contracts as it cools and cracks into regular five- and six-sided columns. The builders only had to prise the rods loose from flows on the far side of the island and stack them crosswise, like the logs of a cabin, with no mortar anywhere. Nearly a hundred artificial islets went up this way on the reef flat, coral rubble packed inside walls of black column, canals where streets would be. How they moved stones of many tonnes across the island without wheels or draft animals has never been explained. You reach the islets by small boat across a still green lagoon. The channels are narrow, and the black walls slide past on either side under the mangroves. When the tide falls the channels drain and you can wade between them instead, coral crunching underfoot and the walls closing in on you. After one of Pohnpei's near-daily showers the stone turns glossy and mist lifts off the water. Nandauwas is where the scale lands on you: the royal mortuary and grandest islet, ringed by stacked columns rising over seven metres, with a court inside where the Saudeleur kings were entombed. That dynasty ruled from here until its god-kings grew harsh enough to be brought down. A warrior named Isokelekel, said to be the son of a thunder god, came with a company of fighters and ended the line, and the islets emptied. Nobody has lived among these stones for four centuries, and the reef has been taking its capital back, mangrove roots prising the columns apart. Pohnpeian tradition does not find the engineering hard. Two sorcerer brothers sailed in from a land to the west looking for somewhere to worship, and they flew the columns into place through the air with a dragon's help.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Entry needs the traditional landowners' permission and a small fee, so come with a local guide — it smooths the way in and unlocks the story behind the stones.
  • Aim for low tide, when the channels drain enough to wade between the islets on foot; check the day's tide table first, as high water leaves only the boat.
  • The basalt is mossy and slick, so wear grippy water shoes; the mangroves breed mosquitoes, so cover up and bring repellent for the still, humid air.
  • Light is kindest early and late — soft morning or low afternoon sun brings out the black stone, while the midday glare is tiring in the tropical humidity.
  • Pohnpei is among the rainiest islands on Earth and wet year-round, so pack a waterproof layer and a dry bag or cover to protect your camera.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Move through the canals, by boat or on foot at low tide

    Move through the canals, by boat or on foot at low tide

    You reach the islets by small boat across the still green lagoon, gliding through narrow channels where black basalt walls slide past on either side in the shade of the mangroves. It is why the place is called the Venice of the Pacific. When the tide falls the channels drain and you can wade from one islet to the next instead, coral crunching underfoot and ancient walls closing in. After one of Pohnpei's near-daily showers the stone turns glossy and mist lifts off the water.

  2. 2

    Trace the log-stacked basalt walls

    Trace the log-stacked basalt walls

    Up close, the walls resolve into thousands of long basalt prisms laid crosswise like the logs of a cabin, one course over another with no mortar between them. Run your eye along a single column and the patience of building an entire city this way, block by many-tonne block, sinks in.

  3. 3

    Stand in the heart of Nandauwas

    Stand in the heart of Nandauwas

    Nandauwas, the royal mortuary and grandest islet, is ringed by walls of stacked columns rising over seven metres. Step into its central courtyard, where the Saudeleur kings once lay entombed, and the hush and the sheer mass of stone press the age of the place onto you.

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