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Phang Nga Bay

Phang Nga Bay

IslandsThailandPhang Nga,Thailand

Hundreds of limestone towers on a jade Thai sea, several hollow — canoed into at low tide through sea caves that open on lagoons inside rock.

September·Quiet month

Aug–Oct

The wettest stretch, September into October. Three places close from 1 August to 30 September to recover: Ko Lawa Yai, the bay's only swimming beach, together with Ko Boi Yai and Ao Khian. James Bond Island, the mangroves and the hongs stay open.



Year-round The karst towers, mangrove channels and tide-locked hongs stand year-round, the sea holds 27-30°C, and the plankton can spark on any moonless night; clarity, rain and closures move with the season.

Phang Nga Bay is a shallow jade-green sea between Phuket and the Thai mainland, hundreds of limestone towers rising sheer out of it, and the best of them are hollow. They are all that is left of one limestone platform, hollowed from inside by slightly acid rainwater working down the cracks. Where a cave roof later fell in, what stands is a basin walled all round with nothing over it but sky. A room like that is a hong, still tied to the sea by a tunnel at water level. A sea canoe gets you through at low tide, sometimes flat on your back to get under the roof, and comes up inside sheer walls, mangroves on the floor, birds overhead. A few hours later the mouth is under water and the room is shut. That is why your guide watches the tide, not the clock. The long-tails run out into the open bay, engine noise banging back off the cliffs. Ahead the mangrove channels open, where the fish, prawns and crabs that feed the bay are raised and otters swim between the islets. On the cliff at Khao Khian, ochre outlines of people, boats and elephants cross the rock, left three thousand years ago and more by people already living off these tides. Ko Panyi is a fishing village on posts over the water at the foot of a cliff, walkways of planking between houses, shops and a gold-domed mosque. With no ground to play on, its children built a football pitch on a raft of scrap timber in the 1980s; the team it produced won regional titles. Ko Ta Pu, the thin rock everyone photographs, has had no boat near it since 1998 because its base is undercut, so you look from the beach next door. Before dawn from the hilltop at Samet Nangshe the headlands come out of the mist one behind another, and from there you cannot tell which towers are hollow. Only the tide can tell you that, and only for a few hours at a time.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The hong lagoons open only around certain tides — check a tide table before booking a canoe trip, because the low cave mouths seal shut at high water and close the rooms off.
  • James Bond Island is busiest late morning, when the Phuket day-boats converge — go at first light, or start from the Phang Nga side to catch the bay at its quietest.
  • Samet Nangshe rewards both sunrise and sunset, but arrive before first light — the railing fills fast, and the layered headlands look sharpest while mist still hangs over the mangroves.
  • The bioluminescence shows only on a truly dark night — a bright moon washes out the plankton sparks, so time a 'Hong by Starlight' paddle to the moonless days of the month.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Canoe into a tide-locked hong

    Canoe into a tide-locked hong

    Paddle a low-slung sea canoe through a cave mouth and surface inside a cliff-ringed lagoon open only to the sky. A guide reads the tide, because the entrance seals shut at high water.

  2. 2

    Ride a long-tail into the bay

    Ride a long-tail into the bay

    Ride out into the bay in a painted long-tail boat, sitting up near the bow as the limestone towers close in around you and the mangrove channels open ahead. The engine clatters and echoes off the cliff walls, and the air stays thick with warm salt the whole way.

  3. 3

    Walk the stilt lanes of Ko Panyi

    Walk the stilt lanes of Ko Panyi

    Tie up at the fishing village built on posts over the water, where narrow plank lanes run between houses, shops and a gold-domed mosque, all of it pressed against the base of a sheer cliff. The village has a floating football pitch, built by local children in the 1980s on a raft of scrap timber because there was no ground to play on. The team it produced went on to win regional titles.

  4. 4

    See the whole bay from Samet Nangshe and from the air

    See the whole bay from Samet Nangshe and from the air

    Climb to the Samet Nangshe hilltop viewpoint before dawn and watch headland after headland lift out of the mist as the light comes up over the bay. From the air the scale finally reads: dozens of rainforest-topped towers scattered across tidal channels the colour of milky jade, far more of them than you pass on any boat trip.

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