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Phnom Kulen

Phnom Kulen

WaterfallsCambodiaSiem Reap,Cambodia

The Cambodian plateau Angkor was quarried from and the Khmer Empire declared on, its riverbed carved with lingas above a waterfall families swim in.

September·Peaking now

Aug–Oct

Monsoon fills the Kulen river and the lower fall roars into a brown, swollen pool, the falls at their most powerful. But the sacred riverbed lingas drown, and the one-way road and red-earth trails turn muddy and slick.



Year-round A working shrine, not a ruin: the reclining Buddha, the carved riverbed and Khmer pilgrims are here every day. The falls, the water's clarity, the heat and the trails all turn with the season.

Angkor is made out of Phnom Kulen. More than fifty quarries on the south-eastern foot of this sandstone plateau, fifty kilometres northeast of Siem Reap in Cambodia, cut the blocks for the temples. Satellite imagery has since picked out a canal running from the quarry belt toward the building sites, a far shorter route than the overland haul long assumed. The plateau's streams still feed Angkor's rivers and reservoirs. It is also where the empire was declared: Jayavarman II had himself consecrated universal monarch up here in 802. What brings Cambodians up the mountain now is the water. Where the Kulen river runs shallow across a broad sandstone shelf, the rock under your feet is carved with hundreds of lingas laid out in grids, and you wade in to see them properly. Pilgrims fill bottles below the carvings, because passing over that stone is what makes the water holy. They show best in the dry months, once the monsoon runoff has drained away. And the celebrated River of a Thousand Lingas that guidebooks promise is usually not this bed at all, but Kbal Spean across the massif. A little downstream the river drops fifteen to twenty metres into a broad pool — a brown roar in September and October, a modest curtain in the dry season. On any weekend it is full of Cambodian families, most of them swimming in their clothes. In the forest beyond the village a boulder was carved into an elephant twelve centuries ago, with lions and a bull around it. That ground was heavily mined and only the track has been cleared, so you go in with a guide. And a stair lined with vendors takes you up to a pagoda perched on one enormous block, whose crown was cut in the sixteenth century into an eight-metre reclining Buddha. It was laid on a mountain that had been Hindu holy ground for seven centuries by then. Inside it is close, dark and thick with incense, and the queue is almost entirely Cambodian: lotus flowers, folded banknotes, a monk's blessing with water.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The mountain road runs one way — uphill only until late morning, then downhill only after midday, so a late start costs you the whole plateau. Leave Siem Reap early.
  • The falls and the carvings peak in opposite seasons — the monsoon makes the waterfall roar but drowns the riverbed lingas, which show best under the low, clear water that follows the rains.
  • Stay on the cleared paths — this was the Khmer Rouge's last redoubt and mines still lie in the forest, so save outlying sites like Srah Damrei for a guided walk.
  • Cambodians come here to pray, not to sightsee — weekends and the April new year fill the summit with pilgrims and picnics, while a weekday leaves the pools far quieter.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Swim where Khmer families picnic under the falls

    Swim where Khmer families picnic under the falls

    The lower fall drops 15 to 20 metres into a broad pool, and on any weekend it is full of Cambodian families, most of them swimming in their clothes. From the rock above the second tier you can look straight down the drop into a hollow of jungle, with the pilgrim village's stalls crowded along the bank.

  2. 2

    Trace the lingas cut into the riverbed

    Trace the lingas cut into the riverbed

    Upstream of the falls the river runs shallow across a broad sandstone shelf, and the rock under the water is carved with hundreds of lingas laid out in grids. You wade in to see them properly. Pilgrims bottle the water below the carvings, because passing over the stone is what makes it holy.

  3. 3

    Climb to the boulder Buddha of Preah Ang Thom

    Climb to the boulder Buddha of Preah Ang Thom

    A stair lined with vendors climbs to a pagoda perched on one enormous sandstone block, whose crown was carved into an 8-metre reclining Buddha, the largest in Cambodia. Inside it is close, dark and thick with incense, and the queue is almost entirely Cambodian: lotus flowers, folded banknotes, a monk's blessing with water.

  4. 4

    Walk in to the stone elephant of Srah Damrei

    In the forest beyond Anlong Thom, a boulder was carved into an elephant, with lions and a bull left standing around it, some twelve centuries ago. The forest here was heavily mined and only the track has been cleared, so you come with a guide — which is also why you will likely have the sculptures to yourself.

Watch

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