[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-44eab4dd27f7":3,"categories-en":35,"detail-extra-840":169,"travel-countries-en":270},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":18,"elevationM":18,"bestMonths":21,"tips":30,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":31,"timezone":18,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},840,"44eab4dd27f7","quebrada-de-los-cuervos-uruguay","Quebrada de los Cuervos","A hundred-metre gorge sunk without warning into Uruguay's open grassland, its sheltered floor holding subtropical forest at its southern limit, vultures nesting on its cliffs.",6,5,-54.45694,-32.9275,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fcover.webp","Uruguay","Treinta y Tres Department",0,"nature",null,"At the Quebrada de los Cuervos the grassland stops without warning. The gorge starts at your feet and drops a hundred metres, in the Treinta y Tres department of eastern Uruguay, with a stream running as a dark ribbon between palm crowns at the bottom. The plains up here take hard winter frosts. Down in the gorge the wind never reaches and the sun only does for half the day, so the air stays damp and mild all year. What grows in it has no business being this far south: 87 kinds of tree and shrub, 22 ferns, and pindó palms rooted into bare rock.\n\nGoing down is three kilometres of rock and root with a few moves on your hands, and the surprise is that it gets warmer as you lose height. The palms that were crowns from the rim arrive at eye level and then overhead, and the sky narrows to a strip. It ends at the Yerbal Chico: clear water over stone, a small rocky beach. The climb back is the same hundred metres taken the hard way. The cuervos of the name are not crows but vultures, and nothing lifts until the rock has warmed. They sit on the ledges early and are up on the thermals from late morning, passing the rim at your eye level. The turkey vulture holds its wings in a shallow V and rocks side to side; the black vulture flies flatter and flaps in short bursts. Most of the protected area is the grassland above, much of it private land where families still graze cattle: the line was drawn around the ranches rather than through them. From mid-November the tall grass fills with capuchino seedeaters, small threatened finches that come south to breed and are gone again by March. The sierra is called the Yerbal, after the yerba mate growing wild in these gorges — in a country that drinks more mate a head than any other and grows almost none.","UY",[22,23,24,25,10,26,27,28,29],1,2,3,4,9,10,11,12,"access|**The park does not open every day and the gate shuts in the late afternoon** — the last 24 kilometres in from Route 8 are gravel, so check the day's hours first.\nsafety|**Wear closed shoes with real grip** — the descent is about three kilometres of rock and roots with a few hand-over-hand moves, and the stone stays slick long after rain.\ntiming|**You get warmer going down, not cooler** — the canyon floor is sheltered and humid, so carry less clothing than instinct suggests, and in summer descend early and sit out midday by the stream.\nview|**Do the rim path even if you skip the descent** — it is 500 metres of level ground, and the only place that shows you the whole gorge at once.",[32,33,34],"z8Iv-7IBOxg","7QKGCuMOnDs","dZGlxl4u2Hg",[36,41,46,51,56,61,66,71,76,81,86,91,96,101,106,111,116,121,125,129,133,137,141,145,150,155,159,164],{"id":37,"slug":38,"name":39,"color":40},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":42,"slug":43,"name":44,"color":45},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":47,"slug":48,"name":49,"color":50},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":52,"slug":53,"name":54,"color":55},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":57,"slug":58,"name":59,"color":60},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":62,"slug":63,"name":64,"color":65},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":67,"slug":68,"name":69,"color":70},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":72,"slug":73,"name":74,"color":75},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":77,"slug":78,"name":79,"color":80},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":82,"slug":83,"name":84,"color":85},24,"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":87,"slug":88,"name":89,"color":90},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":92,"slug":93,"name":94,"color":95},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":97,"slug":98,"name":99,"color":100},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":102,"slug":103,"name":104,"color":105},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":107,"slug":108,"name":109,"color":110},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":112,"slug":113,"name":114,"color":115},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":117,"slug":118,"name":119,"color":120},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":22,"slug":122,"name":123,"color":124},"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":23,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":24,"slug":130,"name":131,"color":132},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":25,"slug":134,"name":135,"color":136},"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":10,"slug":138,"name":139,"color":140},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":9,"slug":142,"name":143,"color":144},"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":146,"slug":147,"name":148,"color":149},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":151,"slug":152,"name":153,"color":154},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":29,"slug":156,"name":157,"color":158},"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":160,"slug":161,"name":162,"color":163},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":165,"slug":166,"name":167,"color":168},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":170,"exps":186,"boxes":199,"seasons":215,"near":245,"peers":269},[171,173,176,178,181,184],{"url":13,"attribution":172},"Foto: Karituscd \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":174,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Andrés Franchi Ugarte \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":177,"attribution":175},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Marcelo uy 1950 \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Marina Miranda \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":185,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fg4.webp",[187,191,195],{"title":188,"description":189,"imageUrl":190,"attribution":175},"Look for the capuchinos out on the sierra","The grassland above the gorge is most of what the protected area actually covers, and from mid-November it fills with capuchino seedeaters that have flown down from the north to breed. Two threatened species, the dark-throated and the chestnut, nest in the tall grass and are gone again by March. The range is listed as an Important Bird Area because of them.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":183},"Climb down into the gorge's warm air","The path down loses the full hundred metres, and the palms that were crowns seen from above arrive at eye level, then overhead. By the bottom the forest has closed over and the sky is a strip between the walls. Allow more time for the climb back than for the way down — it is the same hundred metres of rock, taken the hard way.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":196,"description":197,"imageUrl":198,"attribution":180},"Watch the cuervos ride the thermals from the rim","Nothing rises until the rock has warmed, so the birds sit on the cliff ledges early and are in the air from late morning on. From the rim they pass below you and then at eye level. The two common species separate themselves in flight: the turkey vulture holds its wings in a shallow V and rocks from side to side, while the black vulture flies flatter and flaps in short bursts.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F840\u002Fe5.webp",[200,205,210],{"boxType":201,"title":202,"body":203,"deepBody":204,"sourceNote":18},"culture","The wild mate in the hills","Uruguay drinks more mate per person than any country on earth and grows almost none of it. Yet yerba mate grows wild in these gorges.","Ilex paraguariensis is a tree of the subtropical forest, and Uruguay sits at the southern edge of where it will grow at all. In the humid, frost-sheltered quebradas it survives on its own, and the stands were common enough to name the whole range: the Sierras del Yerbal, the yerba-mate hills.",{"boxType":206,"title":207,"body":208,"deepBody":209,"sourceNote":18},"geology","Two rocks, a billion years apart","The stone in this landscape is not one stone. The quartzite, gneiss and mica schist crystallised around 700 million years ago; the granites nearby are almost three times older.","The eastern half of the protected landscape is built of metamorphic rock formed in a cycle roughly 700 million years ago. The granites and migmatites to the west date from 1.8 to 2 billion years ago, among the oldest crust on the continent. The Yerbal Chico has simply been cutting downward through it.",{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":18},"history","A protected area with ranches inside it","Much of the 19,395 hectares is private land where families still graze cattle. The protected area was drawn around those working ranches, which carry on as before.","The core 365 hectares were donated in 1944 and run as a municipal park from 1986. In 2008 the quebrada became the first area entered into Uruguay's national system, under the category paisaje protegido — protected landscape — and the 2020 expansion pulled in the surrounding Sierras del Yerbal, grassland that is still worked. The label protects a lived-in landscape rather than fencing people out.",[216,221,226,231,236,240],{"phenomenon":217,"peakMonths":218,"note":219,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":22},"birds",[28,29,22,23],"Threatened capuchino seedeaters — Sporophila ruficollis and S. cinnamomea — fly south into the Sierras del Yerbal grassland around mid-November to breed, and are gone again by March. They are why the range is an Important Bird Area.",false,{"phenomenon":222,"peakMonths":223,"note":224,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":225},"chapter_peak",[22,23,28,29],"Threatened capuchino seedeaters breed on the sierra while the gorge is at full stretch — longest hours, both trails open. Summer heat can hit the high thirties, so descend early and let the cool Yerbal Chico and its rocky beach carry the midday.",50,{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":228,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":230},"chapter_edge",[24,25,10],"Autumn is the kindest descent — mild days, low sun, the last seedeaters slipping north by March. Semana de Turismo, Uruguay's Easter week, is the one time the campsite fills and the narrow trail queues; almost every other week is quiet.",51,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":235},"chapter_quiet",[9,146,151],"Winter frosts the open plains and pulls the gate in to 5pm, but the sheltered canyon floor stays milder and green, and the vultures still ride the cliffs. Nothing closes — the park keeps its Wednesday-to-Sunday week; only the migrant songbirds are gone.",52,{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":237,"note":238,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":239},[26,27],"Spring greens the grassland and the first migrant seedeaters return to the sierra; the air is mild, the descent comfortable, and the park keeps its usual Wednesday-to-Sunday week in the calm before summer's crowds.",53,{"phenomenon":241,"peakMonths":242,"note":243,"requiresDarkSky":220,"sortOrder":244},"baseline",[],"The gorge forest, the pindó palms and the vultures on the cliffs are here every month; only the grassland's migrant songbirds come and go.",99,[246,257],{"id":247,"publicId":248,"slug":249,"name":250,"shortDescription":251,"categoryId":24,"importance":10,"lng":252,"lat":253,"coverImageUrl":254,"country":14,"region":255,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":256,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},489,"da03ab8548a0","cabo-polonio","Cabo Polonio","A Uruguayan cape of dunes with no road and no mains power, only a lighthouse, 130 residents and a seal colony roaring on rocks offshore.",-53.7892,-34.3975,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F489\u002Fcover.webp","Rocha",174411.53483851,{"id":258,"publicId":259,"slug":260,"name":261,"shortDescription":262,"categoryId":62,"importance":24,"lng":263,"lat":264,"coverImageUrl":265,"country":266,"region":267,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":22,"distanceM":268,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},341,"6c676caf2cb7","lagoa-do-peixe","Lagoa do Peixe","A forty-kilometre lagoon on Brazil's southern coast never deeper than your shins, whose mudflats feed up to a fifth of the world's red knots mid-migration.",-50.959,-31.241,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F341\u002Fcover.webp","Brazil","Rio Grande do 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