[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"dest-44ac1da39fad":3,"categories-en":34,"detail-extra-420":171,"travel-countries-en":291},{"id":4,"publicId":5,"slug":6,"name":7,"shortDescription":8,"categoryId":9,"importance":10,"lng":11,"lat":12,"coverImageUrl":13,"country":14,"region":15,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":-1,"kind":17,"cityGuideId":18,"description":19,"countryCode":20,"adminArea":18,"elevationM":21,"bestMonths":22,"tips":28,"howToGetThere":18,"youtubeIds":29,"timezone":18,"cityGuideSlug":18,"cityGuidePublicId":18,"cityGuideName":18,"poiTheme":18,"poiNeighborhood":18},420,"44ac1da39fad","registan-samarkand","Registan","Three tile-sheathed Islamic colleges facing one another across a Samarkand square, raised two centuries apart, one carrying tigers across its portal against Islamic custom.",24,3,66.9758,39.6547,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fcover.webp","Uzbekistan","Samarkand",0,"monument",null,"The Registan is a square in the middle of Samarkand, in Uzbekistan, faced on three sides by madrasahs — Islamic colleges sheathed in tile — and above the portal of one of them two tigers are hunting. Islamic custom does not put living things on a house of prayer, and nobody is certain why the builder dared. The beasts are golden-maned, each with a sun rising off its back, and they gave the Sher-Dor its name. The oldest of the three colleges was founded by a man better remembered for astronomy than for ruling. Ulugh Beg, Timur's grandson, built an observatory in the city, catalogued more than a thousand stars with an accuracy nothing matched until the telescope, and lectured on mathematics inside these walls; he was killed on his own son's orders. The Sher-Dor went up two centuries later as the mirror of his college, and the Tilya-Kori closed the square between them.\n\nClose up the tilework stops being pattern and becomes labour. Every shape you are looking at in the turquoise, lapis and gold is a separate piece of cut, glazed ceramic, set by hand. Through each great portal you come into a quiet courtyard ringed by two tiers of arched cells where students lodged. Inside the Tilya-Kori the mosque is gold from floor to ceiling, and the ceiling is built from tier upon tier of small honeycomb niches, each stepping inward and upward, so the whole of it glows above you. For a small tip a guard will unlock a narrow, unlit spiral stair and let you climb a minaret over the three portals and the domes beyond. One of those minarets leaned for years until Soviet engineers pulled it upright in 1932 without taking the tower down. As the sun drops the three fronts go from honey to deep gold and the floodlights lift them out of the dark. Two readings of the tigers survive: the governor's own badge of power, or an echo of sun-worship older than Islam in Central Asia. Neither has ever been settled.","UZ",705,[10,23,24,25,26,27],4,5,9,10,11,"months|**Aim for spring (April–May) or autumn (September–October)** — the shadeless square swelters through high-summer heat that often tops 35°C, and turns bitterly cold in winter.\ncrowds|**Tour buses pile in mid-morning; the square empties around lunch and again after dark** — the illuminated facades late in the evening are often nearly yours alone.\nview|**All three madrasahs line up only from the entrance terrace** — stand on the raised steps at the square's south edge for the single view that holds the whole ensemble.",[30,31,32,33],"1cMynLzny8E","5O3dkU6oelQ","Zk2V1I8dXeY","9sQXHhmhSUQ",[35,40,45,50,55,60,65,70,75,80,84,89,94,99,104,109,114,119,124,129,133,137,141,146,151,156,161,166],{"id":36,"slug":37,"name":38,"color":39},15,"river","Rivers & Streams","#14B8A6",{"id":41,"slug":42,"name":43,"color":44},16,"coast","Coasts & Cliffs","#0891B2",{"id":46,"slug":47,"name":48,"color":49},17,"fjord","Fjords","#6366F1",{"id":51,"slug":52,"name":53,"color":54},18,"valley","Valleys","#22C55E",{"id":56,"slug":57,"name":58,"color":59},19,"volcano","Volcanoes & Craters","#EA580C",{"id":61,"slug":62,"name":63,"color":64},20,"wetland","Wetlands & Deltas","#0D9488",{"id":66,"slug":67,"name":68,"color":69},21,"savanna","Savannas & Plains","#EAB308",{"id":71,"slug":72,"name":73,"color":74},22,"rock-formation","Rock Formations","#9A3412",{"id":76,"slug":77,"name":78,"color":79},23,"plateau","Plateaus & Highlands","#84CC16",{"id":9,"slug":81,"name":82,"color":83},"ancient-site","Ancient Sites","#B45309",{"id":85,"slug":86,"name":87,"color":88},25,"sacred-site","Sacred Sites","#9333EA",{"id":90,"slug":91,"name":92,"color":93},26,"fortress","Fortresses","#78350F",{"id":95,"slug":96,"name":97,"color":98},27,"engineering","Engineering Marvels","#475569",{"id":100,"slug":101,"name":102,"color":103},28,"monumental-art","Monumental Art","#C026D3",{"id":105,"slug":106,"name":107,"color":108},29,"village","Villages","#F97316",{"id":110,"slug":111,"name":112,"color":113},30,"historic-town","Historic Towns","#E11D48",{"id":115,"slug":116,"name":117,"color":118},31,"unique-settlement","Unique Settlements","#10B981",{"id":120,"slug":121,"name":122,"color":123},1,"waterfall","Waterfalls","#38BDF8",{"id":125,"slug":126,"name":127,"color":128},2,"lake","Lakes","#3B82F6",{"id":10,"slug":130,"name":131,"color":132},"beach","Beaches & Coves","#0EA5E9",{"id":23,"slug":134,"name":135,"color":136},"mountain","Peaks","#F59E0B",{"id":24,"slug":138,"name":139,"color":140},"forest","Forests","#059669",{"id":142,"slug":143,"name":144,"color":145},6,"canyon","Canyons","#EF4444",{"id":147,"slug":148,"name":149,"color":150},7,"cave","Caves","#8B5CF6",{"id":152,"slug":153,"name":154,"color":155},8,"geothermal","Geothermal & Travertines","#F472B6",{"id":157,"slug":158,"name":159,"color":160},12,"ice","Ice Worlds","#60A5FA",{"id":162,"slug":163,"name":164,"color":165},13,"island","Islands","#06B6D4",{"id":167,"slug":168,"name":169,"color":170},14,"desert","Deserts","#D97706",{"gallery":172,"exps":190,"boxes":216,"seasons":232,"near":266,"peers":290},[173,175,178,181,184,187],{"url":13,"attribution":174},"Foto: Benjamin Goetzinger \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Kraftabbas \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":179,"attribution":180},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fg1.webp","Foto: Bobyrr \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":182,"attribution":183},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Tchumbley \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":185,"attribution":186},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: Francisco Anzola \u002F CC BY 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":188,"attribution":189},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fg4.webp","Foto: Almutamid \u002F Public domain (Wikimedia Commons)",[191,196,201,206,211],{"title":192,"description":193,"imageUrl":194,"attribution":195},"Stand on the square as it lights up","As the sun drops, the three facades shift from honey to deep gold, and then the floodlights rise and the square becomes a lit stage. On warm-season evenings a music-and-projection show sweeps colour across the tilework for about an hour.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fe1.webp","Foto: Adam Harangozó \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":197,"description":198,"imageUrl":199,"attribution":200},"Find Sher-Dor's tigers, then read the tilework close up","Above the grand portal of the Sher-Dor Madrasah, look for the mosaic of golden-maned tigers bearing the sun on their backs — a vivid figure, rare in Islamic art, that gives the madrasah its name. Move in closer to the endless geometric and floral patterns in turquoise, lapis and gold majolica. Up close every shape turns out to be a separate piece of cut, glazed ceramic set by hand, the painstaking craft that made Timurid workshops famous across Asia.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fe2.webp","Foto: David Stanley \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":205},"Slip into the madrasahs' inner courtyards","Step through a great portal into the calm courtyard behind it, ringed by two tiers of arched cells where students once lodged. Many now hold craft and carpet stalls, and a few still show the old sleeping niches and study alcoves.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fe4.webp","Foto: Faqscl \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":207,"description":208,"imageUrl":209,"attribution":210},"Gaze up at the golden mosque's ceiling","Enter the mosque of Tilya-Kori, adorned from floor to ceiling in gold leaf, and lift your head. The ceiling is built from tier upon tier of small honeycomb niches, a form called muqarnas, each one stepping inward and upward. Covered in gold, they catch the low light and glow above you.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fe5.webp","Foto: LBM1948 \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"title":212,"description":213,"imageUrl":214,"attribution":215},"Climb a minaret above the three madrasahs","For a small tip a guard will unlock a narrow, unlit spiral stair inside one of the madrasahs and let you climb its minaret. At the top the whole square opens below — three portals in a row, the domes of Samarkand beyond, and mountains on a clear day.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F420\u002Fe-4134.webp","upyernoz from Haverford, USA \u002F CC BY 2.0 — Wikimedia Commons",[217,222,227],{"boxType":218,"title":219,"body":220,"deepBody":221,"sourceNote":18},"history","The stargazing prince","The oldest of the three colleges was founded by a ruler better known for astronomy than kingship, who lectured on mathematics inside its walls.","Ulugh Beg, Timur's grandson, built a great observatory nearby and around 1437 catalogued more than a thousand stars with an accuracy unmatched until the telescope. His science outlived his short, unhappy reign — he was killed on his own son's orders in 1449.",{"boxType":223,"title":224,"body":225,"deepBody":226,"sourceNote":18},"culture","Tigers on a house of prayer","The Sher-Dor's sunlit tigers openly defy the Islamic rule against portraying living things — and no one is quite sure why the builder dared.","One reading sees the tiger-and-sun as the governor's own emblem of power, the beast swallowing his rivals as the sun blazes his glory. Another hears an echo of pre-Islamic Zoroastrian sun-worship, still alive in Central Asia long after the region turned to Islam.",{"boxType":228,"title":229,"body":230,"deepBody":231,"sourceNote":18},"did_you_know","The minaret that was set straight","One of the Registan's minarets leaned for years before Soviet-era engineers pulled it upright in 1932 — without taking the tower down.","After the Ulugh Beg's northeast minaret began to tilt, engineer Vladimir Shukhov built a cradle of jacks and a pivot at its base. The leaning shaft was slowly rotated back to vertical and fixed in place. The feat was repeated on other minarets in 1965.",[233,239,244,249,253,257,261],{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":235,"note":236,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":238},"chapter_quiet",[120,125,157],"Deep winter: freezing nights, occasional snow settling on the turquoise tiles, and the thinnest crowds of the year. All three madrasahs stay open and the facades are floodlit at dusk, though the evening light show pares back to special dates.",false,50,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":241,"note":242,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":243},"chapter_edge",[10],"March turns the corner: the square's wettest month, days climbing to around 15°C but nights still cold. Spring green returns to the courtyards, and Nowruz on the 21st fills the ensemble with crowds and colour.",51,{"phenomenon":245,"peakMonths":246,"note":247,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":248},"chapter_peak",[23,24],"Spring is the Registan at its best: highs climb from about 21°C in April to 27°C in May, the courtyards green up, and low morning and evening sun rakes across the tilework before the summer heat arrives.",52,{"phenomenon":234,"peakMonths":250,"note":251,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":252},[142,147,152],"High summer bakes the shadeless square — daily highs of 33–35°C that can top 40°C, and midday glare drains the tiles' colour. Nothing closes; the evening light show runs most nights, so come at first light or after dark.",53,{"phenomenon":245,"peakMonths":254,"note":255,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":256},[25,26],"Autumn is the second prime: the heat breaks from highs near 29°C in September to about 22°C in October, skies stay dry and clear, and the low raking light returns to the tilework morning and evening.",54,{"phenomenon":240,"peakMonths":258,"note":259,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":260},[27],"Late autumn winds down: days cool to highs around 14°C, nights slide toward freezing, and the tour buses thin out. Everything stays open and floodlit, but October's comfortable golden light is fading fast.",55,{"phenomenon":262,"peakMonths":263,"note":264,"requiresDarkSky":237,"sortOrder":265},"baseline",[],"The three tiled madrasahs of the Registan glow turquoise by day and honey-gold when floodlit at dusk year-round; spring and autumn spare the desert heat.",99,[267,279],{"id":268,"publicId":269,"slug":270,"name":271,"shortDescription":272,"categoryId":125,"importance":142,"lng":273,"lat":274,"coverImageUrl":275,"country":276,"region":277,"ratingAvg":16,"ratingCount":16,"sensitivity":16,"distanceM":278,"kind":18,"cityGuideId":18},877,"bf38f26f34d2","kulikalon-lakes","Kulikalon Lakes","A basin of glacial lakes at 2,800 metres in Tajikistan's Fann Mountains, under a five-thousand-metre granite wall, beside the last stands of high juniper.",68.16361111,39.25694444,"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F877\u002Fcover.webp","Tajikistan","Fann 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