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Sir Bani Yas Island

Sir Bani Yas Island

IslandsUnited Arab EmiratesAl Dhafra,UAE

A Gulf island planted and closed to hunters in the 1970s, now grazed by one of the world's largest herds of Arabian oryx.

September·Quiet month

May–Sep

May to September is punishing — daytime near 40°C and humid, the sea warming into the mid-30s. Animals lie up in deep shade by mid-morning, so the plains look empty; drives run at dawn and dusk only. Nothing shuts: ferry, resorts and safaris keep running.



Year-round Oryx, giraffe, gazelle and Barbary sheep herds graze the plains every day of the year, and the ferry and safari drives run in every season; what changes is the heat and the coastal birds.

Sir Bani Yas is not a surviving wilderness. It is an island in the Gulf off Abu Dhabi, planted with millions of trees from 1971 and closed to hunters in 1977. Then it was stocked, on the decision of one ruler, with the species he thought worth saving. The island is not a sandbank either. It is the top of a salt dome — a deep layer of ancient salt, lighter than the rock above it, pushed slowly upward for millions of years and buckling the layers above. Where the dome breaks the surface the exposed gypsum dissolves away in the rain, leaving the rugged cap of insoluble rubble that makes the island's hills. You cross several landscapes in a few kilometres of driving — open gravel plains, belts of planted forest, then bare rocky hills. The animals sort into two kinds. Arabian oryx, sand gazelle and mountain gazelle belong on this coast; giraffes, ostriches and Barbary sheep never did, and the island does not pretend otherwise. In the heat of the day you find the oryx gathered under the acacia canopies, scimitar horns catching the light, white coats glaring against the gravel. On the sheltered side you slip by kayak through narrow channels cut into the mangroves, shallow and glassy early in the day, where greater flamingos and waders down the Eurasian flyway feed a few paddle-lengths from you through the winter. Inland, low excavated walls trace a church, cells, a kitchen and courtyard houses, and you can still read the plan of a daily routine in them. Monks of the Church of the East lived here for about 150 years after Islam reached the Gulf, then left without any sign of violence; it is the oldest Christian site known in the Emirates. Four oryx were put ashore here in 1978, two males and two females, at a point when the species had gone from the wild altogether. Their descendants supplied the animals released back into the mainland deserts, and in 2011 the oryx became the first species ever moved from Extinct in the Wild back to Vulnerable.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • You cannot simply drive here — the island is reached by ferry from Jebel Dhanna, and the wildlife drives are run by the island's resorts, so arrange the safari when you book the crossing.
  • Take the dawn or dusk drive, not the middle one — the herds feed in the cool hours and bed down in shade by mid-morning, which is when the plains look empty.
  • Bring binoculars and a zoom lens — much of the park keeps a respectful distance from the vehicles, and the animals worth the long look are usually the ones that will not come near.
  • Kayak the mangrove creeks at first light, before the sea breeze gets up and the water turns choppy; that is also when the flamingos and waders are feeding closest in.
  • Summer is punishing — from June the heat pushes animals into deep shade and thins out what you see, so the drives are far better value in the cool half of the year.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Find the oryx that were brought back from extinction

    Find the oryx that were brought back from extinction

    In the heat of the day the oryx gather under the acacia canopies, scimitar horns catching the light, white coats glaring against the gravel. These are the animals the island was built for, descendants of a founding herd of four. The same open vehicle turns up giraffes and ostriches browsing beside Arabian sand gazelles.

  2. 2

    Drive from the gravel plains up onto the salt dome

    Drive from the gravel plains up onto the salt dome

    A crossing of the island runs through several landscapes in a few miles — open plains, belts of planted forest, then bare rocky hills. Those hills are the reason the island exists: the rubble-capped crest of a salt dome that pushed its way up out of the seabed.

  3. 3

    Walk the floor of a 7th-century desert monastery

    Low excavated walls trace a church, cells, a kitchen and courtyard houses on open ground near the coast. Monks of the Church of the East lived here for about 150 years after Islam reached the Gulf, then left; the plan of their daily routine is still readable at your feet.

  4. 4

    Paddle the mangrove creeks among the flamingos

    Kayaks slip through narrow channels cut into the mangroves on the island's sheltered side, where the water is shallow and glassy in the early morning. Greater flamingos and wading birds feed in the shallows a few paddle-lengths away, unbothered by the boats.

Watch

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