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Spitzkoppe

Spitzkoppe

DesertsNamibiaErongo,Namibia

A granite pyramid rising 670 metres alone out of Namibia's plains, camped beneath, glowing copper at either end of the day under Africa's darkest skies.

September·Peaking now

May–Sep

The dry winter is Spitzkoppe at its best: warm mild days near 25°C, nights dropping close to freezing, and the clearest, darkest skies, with the Milky Way's core arcing high over the granite arch. Everything is open.



Year-round The lone granite dome glows rose at dawn and copper at dusk year-round; on dark nights the Milky Way stands over its arch and scattered boulders.

Spitzkoppe is a bare granite pyramid that stands 670 metres out of flat plain in Namibia with nothing else near it. The rock is still coming off in curved slabs, layer after layer flaking away like the skins of an onion, which is what keeps the peaks around it rounded into domes instead of cutting them into crags. In one place a slab broke clean through a thin fin of rock and left a free-standing arch. At the foot of all this lies a boulder field of granite standing two and three storeys high, with sandy paths winding between the blocks and the thorn trees, and the scale of the place shifting every time you turn a corner. You can scramble the lower domes and the Pontok peaks beside them, hauling yourself up warm smooth rock to a lookout over plain that runs to the horizon. The main summit is a different proposition: nobody stood on it until 1946, and it still takes ropes. You sleep at the bottom. The community campsites are scattered, each one set into its own pocket of boulders with a fire ring and nothing else — no tap, no light. In the early morning and late afternoon dassies come out to bask on the ledges and klipspringers pick across the steeper faces, and at either end of the day the low sun turns the whole mass rose and then deep copper. After dark the arch is where photographers set up, waiting for the galaxy to stand inside the opening. All of this looked so much like the world before people that Stanley Kubrick's crew used photographs of it for the Dawn of Man sequence in 2001: A Space Odyssey. People were here, though. San hunter-gatherers painted antelope and hunters in red ochre on these shelters between two and four thousand years ago, the oldest human trace in the Erongo, and decades of scratching and touching have taken most of it. What survives you now reach only with a guide.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Bring a tripod and a headlamp for the rock arch — the Milky Way's bright core arcs over it from about April to September, and you must step well back to catch its full span.
  • A local guide is required for the rock paintings — Bushman's Paradise is closed to unaccompanied visitors, and a guide from the reception also keeps you from losing the faint tracks between the domes.
  • Carry all your own water — the campsites have none at the sites themselves, shade is scarce on open granite, and the rock radiates fierce heat well into the afternoon.
  • Aim for the cool dry season, May to September — days stay mild and the night sky is clearest, but pack a warm layer because desert temperatures can drop close to freezing after dark.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Hike and scramble the granite domes

    Hike and scramble the granite domes

    Set out on foot across the boulder fields at the base of the domes, following sandy paths between house-sized granite and thorn trees, the scale shifting with every turn. Most visitors scramble the lower domes and the neighbouring Pontok peaks, hauling up smooth rock to a lookout over the endless plain. The main summit is another matter: first reached only in 1946, it still demands ropes and skill.

  2. 2

    Camp among the granite boulders

    Camp among the granite boulders

    Pitch a tent at one of the dispersed community sites, each tucked into its own pocket of boulders with a fire ring and nothing else. There is no running water and no electric glare — just warm rock at dusk, deep silence, and a sky that ignites once the sun is gone.

  3. 3

    Find the San rock paintings

    Find the San rock paintings

    Walk with a local guide to the shelters where San hunter-gatherers painted the rock in red ochre. Much has faded or been scratched away over the centuries, so the guide picks out the surviving figures of antelope and human hunters that are easy to miss on your own.

  4. 4

    Watch dassies bask on the warm rock

    Watch dassies bask on the warm rock

    In the early morning and late afternoon, rock hyraxes — dassies — come out to sun themselves on the granite ledges, while klipspringers pick their way across the steeper faces. Bird life is surprisingly rich too, with lovebirds and hornbills among more than two hundred species recorded here.

  5. 5

    Frame the Milky Way through the rock arch

    After dark, walk out to Spitzkoppe's free-standing granite arch and set up beneath it. With no town lights for hundreds of kilometres, the Milky Way pours through the stone opening in a bright, dense band — the single image that draws photographers from around the world.

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