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Ubari Lakes

Ubari Lakes

DesertsLibyaFezzan,Libya

Some twenty palm-fringed brine pools in the troughs of a Libyan sand sea, salt enough to float you, filled by rain from a green Sahara.

September·Quiet month

Apr–Sep

The lakes, palms and brine shrimp are still here, but almost no one crosses: daytime heat climbs from the low 30s in April to a punishing 36–39°C by midsummer, and mosquito swarms reclaim the shores. Guided crossings effectively stop until the autumn cool.



Year-round Fossil springs feed the lakes year-round — the water, the palms and the brine shrimp are here every month.

The Ubari Lakes are about twenty pools of brine lying in the troughs of a sand sea, and the people who lived on their shores were called the worm eaters. The sand sea is the Idehan Ubari, in the Fezzan of southwestern Libya, and no road reaches it. Getting there is hours of dune driving, up soft slopes and down the far side, sand ridges in every direction. Then you come over one last wall and the oasis is below you: blue water and a thick belt of date palms. Evaporation has worked on these pools for a very long time, and they run about five times as salty as the sea. One animal puts up with that, a red brine shrimp the length of a grain of rice, and that is the crop the name refers to. The Dawada scooped them out of the shallows, dried them and pressed them into dark cakes to eat at home and trade to the caravans. In the 1980s the government moved the families into concrete housing away from the water. You can still see their mud walls, roofless among the palms on Gaberoun's western shore, with the visitors' camp along the same beach. Umm al-Maa, the Mother of Water, is the one to be at early. Before the wind gets up the surface goes completely still and holds the palms leaning over it upside down in near-black water. From the sand slope above the shore you can hear the reeds moving and nothing else. The lakes themselves are in trouble now. Irrigation pumps draw on the same water table, and the level drops year by year. Mandara, one of the three everyone used to come for, is a floor of wrinkled salt and dried mud, its palms dying back around a hollow with no water in it. The shrimp are built for exactly this. Their eggs lie in dry salt for years with everything inside them shut down, and hatch within hours of water returning — which on Mandara's bed means waiting for a water table that is still falling.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Rinse at the shore well before the salt dries on you — locals keep wells beside the lakes for exactly this, and a brine crust left to set itches for hours in the dry air.
  • The reflection only holds in the first hours after dawn — once the wind comes up the palms break apart on the surface and the water turns flat and dull for the rest of the day.
  • Climb the dune before you walk down to the water — from the crest the whole pool and its ring of palms fit into a single frame; from the shore you never see the shape.
  • Security in southern Libya changes month to month — confirm regional access with your operator close to departure, and expect checkpoints on the long drive down through Sabha.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Float in water you cannot sink in

    Float in water you cannot sink in

    Gaberoun's water is as warm as a bath and dense enough to sit in: wade out, lean back, and the lake holds you at chest height without a stroke. Keep your face well clear of it — one splash in the eyes ends the swim — and drift looking at the palm belt and the sand wall behind it.

  2. 2

    Cross the Idehan Ubari by 4x4

    Cross the Idehan Ubari by 4x4

    There is no road in: reaching the water means hours of dune driving with a licensed guide, engines revving up soft slopes and dropping down the far side, with nothing but sand ridges in every direction. Then you come over one last wall and the whole oasis lies below: a blue sheet of water and a thick belt of date palms. On the far shore stand the low huts of the camp, beside the mud walls the Dawada left behind. Sit up on the crest a while before you walk down; the emptiness behind you is what makes the water so hard to believe.

  3. 3

    Wait for the windless hour at Umm al-Maa

    Wait for the windless hour at Umm al-Maa

    Early in the morning, before the wind gets up, the Mother of Water goes completely still and doubles the palms leaning over it in near-black water. Sit on the sand slope above the shore and you can hear the reeds moving, and nothing else. From up there the lake reads as what it is — a narrow dark blade edged in palms, with sand running unbroken to the horizon on every side.

  4. 4

    Stand on Mandara's dry bed

    Mandara was one of the three lakes everyone came to see, and it is now a floor of wrinkled salt and dried mud, its palms dying back around a hollow with no water in it. Guides still drive out here, and standing on the crust shows plainly what the falling water table has done to these lakes.

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