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Each block carries a harder cap on top. The northerly wind drives sand that grinds hardest at ground level, so the base wears away faster than the crown, and what is left of the block looks like a giant mushroom. None of it is finished. Every formation is being whittled down and will come apart in the end, so the field standing tonight is a stage rather than a sculpture. On foot among them you can pick out the grooves the wind has cut. You can also see what the rock is made of: the chalk was built from the shells of microscopic sea creatures, and their fossils are still in it, with shells and sea-urchin remains lying underfoot. It formed on the bed of the Tethys Sea, which covered northern Egypt until about 66 million years ago.\n\nThe night is the reason people come out here. Camps are pitched among the formations, a hundred kilometres from any town or paved road. You settle by a chalk tower with a clear western horizon well before sunset, and the rock goes from glaring white to gold, then rose and violet. It keeps a faint glow long after the day visitors have driven off. Dinner is cooked over a fire and the temperature drops fast. Waking in the small hours, you find a sky so crowded with stars that the familiar ones are hard to pick out. A fennec fox, tiny and enormously eared, sometimes comes to the edge of the firelight. The wind does not stop while you sleep. 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Settle by a chalk tower with a clear western horizon well before sunset: the rock goes from glaring white to gold, then rose and violet, and keeps a faint glow after the day visitors have driven off. Dinner is cooked over a fire, the temperature drops fast, and you wake in the small hours to a sky so crowded with stars it is hard to pick out familiar ones.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F274\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":193,"description":194,"imageUrl":195,"attribution":196},"Walk among the mushroom rocks","Leave the vehicle and wander on foot through the field of chalk sculptures, some taller than a person and balanced on impossibly thin stems. Up close you can see the wind-cut grooves and the fossils in the rock, and the scale of the strangest shapes finally lands.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F274\u002Fe-4096.webp","Vyacheslav Argenberg \u002F CC BY 4.0 — Wikimedia Commons",[198,203],{"boxType":199,"title":200,"body":201,"deepBody":202,"sourceNote":157},"geology","Why the rocks look like mushrooms","The mushroom shapes are made by uneven wear: a harder cap of rock shields the soft chalk beneath, so the wind-blown sand eats away the base faster than the top.","Geologists call it differential erosion. The prevailing northerly wind carries sand that grinds hardest at ground level, undercutting each block, while a tougher layer on top resists and forms the cap. The balance is temporary — every formation is slowly being whittled away and will one day collapse, so the desert you see is a single frame in a very slow film.",{"boxType":204,"title":205,"body":206,"deepBody":207,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","A desert made on the seafloor","The white chalk is built from the shells of microscopic sea creatures, and their fossils are still in the rock — walk carefully and you can spot ancient shells and sea-urchin remains underfoot.","The chalk formed on the bed of the Tethys Sea, which covered northern Egypt until roughly 66 million years ago. As countless plankton with calcium shells died and settled, they built the soft white rock layer by layer. Fossil hunters in the wider Farafra and Bahariya region turn up ammonites, bivalves and even shark teeth — proof that this bone-dry sea of sand was once an ocean floor.",[209,214,220,225,231],{"phenomenon":210,"peakMonths":211,"note":212,"requiresDarkSky":213,"sortOrder":90},"milkyway",[100,105],"In the comfortable spring months the Milky Way's bright core rises before dawn over one of Egypt's darkest skies. It stands highest on the too-hot summer nights, and it is gone from the sky altogether in December and January.",true,{"phenomenon":215,"peakMonths":216,"note":217,"requiresDarkSky":218,"sortOrder":219},"chapter_peak",[90,95,162,163,130],"October to February is the most comfortable stretch: mild, clear days among the mushroom rocks, gold and rose sunsets, and some of the darkest, most star-filled skies in Egypt. December and January nights drop near freezing, so pack layers. 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