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It is a granite dome off the southern tip of Kyushu, in the path of the warm Kuroshio current, and it makes its own weather. Air loaded with moisture off that sea hits a wall of peaks nearly two kilometres high, and empties itself going up. The mountains take several metres of rain a year. On thin granite soil the cedars add wood at a crawl and pack their rings with resin, so the timber barely rots. A tree that would be old at five hundred years on the mainland is ordinary here. From the mountain road you can watch it happen: ridge behind ridge of green interior, cloud sliding down over the tops.\n\nThe walk to the greatest of those trees starts on a railway. The rails once carried its felled relatives down to the coast. The trail follows them, then turns off and takes you up a hard climb, eight to ten hours there and back. Halfway along is what is left of a cedar cut around 1586 for a temple Hideyoshi was raising in Kyoto. The stump is 13.8 metres around and hollow enough for you to walk into, with a spring welling through the floor and the opening overhead framing a heart of sky. Shiratani Unsuikyo is the ravine Miyazaki's team came to study: granite boulders furred over in moss, trunks leaning across the stream, at its most extreme if you arrive within an hour of rain. An old saying counted the island in three equal parts: twenty thousand people, twenty thousand monkeys, twenty thousand deer. The people are down to about twelve thousand. The macaques and the small Yaku deer, found nowhere else, still sit on the forest roads. On early-summer nights loggerheads haul up the dark sand at Inakahama, the biggest nesting beach in the North Pacific. And the long walk ends at a deck before a trunk 16.4 metres around, with a couple of thousand years behind it, on ground its relatives were carried off.","JP",1936,[90,95,100,105,110,115,120,125,162,163,164,130],9,10,11,"access|**Private cars are barred from the Arakawa forest road from March to November** — take the early shuttle from the Yakusugi Museum, buy the ticket a day ahead, and expect a mountain conservation fee.\ntiming|**Start the Jomon Sugi walk in the dark** — it runs about 22 kilometres round trip and takes eight to ten hours, and the last shuttle down will not wait for slow walkers.\nsafety|**Assume rain on any day of the year** and carry a real waterproof, because wet moss and cedar roots turn as slick as ice underfoot.\nwildlife|**Turtle nights at Inakahama run on strict rules** — join the local observation group rather than walking the beach alone, and leave the torch and the camera flash behind.\nwater|**The rock pools at Hirauchi Kaichu Onsen only surface around low tide** — check the tide table, bring your own towel, and know that the baths are open-air and clothing-free.",[167,168,169,170],"nKfCfJq_fPs","-qPcvFVB-yg","QngeS6u09hE","iVG7YN808p0",{"gallery":172,"exps":188,"boxes":209,"seasons":225,"near":262,"peers":263},[173,175,178,180,183,186],{"url":152,"attribution":174},"Foto: KimonBerlin \u002F CC BY-SA 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":176,"attribution":177},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fg0.webp","Foto: Grendelkhan \u002F CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":179,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fg1.webp",{"url":181,"attribution":182},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fg2.webp","Foto: Σ64 \u002F CC BY 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":184,"attribution":185},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fg3.webp","Foto: JoshBerglund19 \u002F CC BY 2.0 (Wikimedia Commons)",{"url":187,"attribution":174},"https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fg4.webp",[189,193,197,201,206],{"title":190,"description":191,"imageUrl":192,"attribution":185},"Walk the old logging railway to Jomon Sugi","The trail to the island's greatest cedar begins on the rails that once carried its cut ancestors down to the coast, then leaves them for a hard climb through the mountain forest. Eight to ten hours of walking end at a viewing deck, where a trunk 16.4 metres around stands in front of you with a couple of thousand years behind it.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fe1.webp",{"title":194,"description":195,"imageUrl":196,"attribution":174},"Find the moss ravine that became Princess Mononoke","Shiratani Unsuikyo is the valley Miyazaki's team came to study: granite boulders furred over with moss, stunted trunks leaning across the stream, mist filling the gaps between them. Come within an hour of rain, when the moss is soaked and the whole ravine glows a green that looks turned up too far.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fe2.webp",{"title":198,"description":199,"imageUrl":200,"attribution":177},"Watch the cloud pour over the interior ridges","From the mountain road the island's green interior opens up, ridge behind ridge, with cloud sliding down over the tops almost continuously. This is the rain being made in front of you, and it is the closest most visitors come to seeing the shape of the whole island.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fe4.webp",{"title":202,"description":203,"imageUrl":204,"attribution":205},"Wait on Inakahama for a loggerhead to come ashore","On early-summer nights the biggest loggerhead nesting beach in the North Pacific fills with turtles hauling up the dark sand to dig. Watching is done in small groups under red light, standing well back, listening to the sound of a half-metre of sand being thrown behind a heavy animal.","https:\u002F\u002Fimg.jouvida.com\u002Fdestinations\u002F517\u002Fe-4173.webp","Unknown \u002F CC BY-SA 3.0 — Wikimedia Commons",{"title":207,"description":208,"imageUrl":157,"attribution":157},"Step into the hollow of the Wilson Stump","A cedar felled more than four centuries ago left a stump big enough to walk into, with a spring running across its floor. Stand in the right corner, look up through the opening, and the sky comes through it in the shape of a heart.",[210,215,220],{"boxType":211,"title":212,"body":213,"deepBody":214,"sourceNote":157},"history","The stump you can stand inside","One cedar was cut around 1586 for a temple Toyotomi Hideyoshi was building in Kyoto. What is left of it is a stump 13.8 metres around with a hollow room inside.","The cavity runs to roughly 16.5 square metres, a spring wells up through its floor, and from the right spot the opening overhead frames a heart of sky. It carries the name of Ernest Henry Wilson, the British plant collector who reached it in 1914 and told the world what Yakushima held.",{"boxType":216,"title":217,"body":218,"deepBody":219,"sourceNote":157},"wildlife","Twenty thousand people, twenty thousand monkeys, twenty thousand deer","An old island saying counts Yakushima's residents in three equal parts. The people have since dwindled to roughly 12,000; the monkeys and deer have not.","Both animals are found nowhere else. The Yaku macaque and the Yaku sika deer are island subspecies, and the deer is the smallest sika in Japan — generations on a crowded island have bred them down in size. You will meet both on the forest roads, unbothered and unhurried.",{"boxType":221,"title":222,"body":223,"deepBody":224,"sourceNote":157},"did_you_know","The island makes its own rain","Yakushima sits in the path of the warm Kuroshio current, which loads the air with moisture — and then the island puts a two-kilometre wall in its way.","Air pushed off that warm sea has nowhere to go but up the mountain flanks, where it cools and empties itself. It is why the peaks are drenched far more heavily than the coast, why the moss never dries out, and why an island lying at the latitude of the subtropics still gets snow on its summits in January.",[226,231,235,240,245,249,253,257],{"phenomenon":227,"peakMonths":228,"note":229,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":90},"turtles",[110,115,120],"Loggerheads haul out at night on Nagata Inakahama, the largest nesting beach in the North Pacific; on a good night in late spring a dozen or more females dig above the tide line.",false,{"phenomenon":232,"peakMonths":233,"note":234,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":95},"snow",[90,95],"Snow settles on the granite summits while camellias flower at sea level a few hours below — the clearest proof of the island's stacked climate. Winter peak trails need real gear.",{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":237,"note":238,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":239},"chapter_peak",[90,95,130],"Snow covers the granite summits, 50 to 100 cm around Jomon Sugi by January and February, while camellias flower on the mild coast below and the sea holds near 20°C. This is the calmest, emptiest season, but the high trails now demand crampons and full winter kit.",50,{"phenomenon":241,"peakMonths":242,"note":243,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":244},"chapter_edge",[100,105],"From 1 March private cars are barred from the Arakawa forest road, so the dawn shuttle to the Jomon Sugi trail runs again. Trekking weather turns mild and the island turns green as it moves toward its wettest weeks.",51,{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":246,"note":247,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":248},[110,115,120],"Loggerheads haul out to nest at Nagata Inakahama, up to twenty a night, and the endemic Yakushima rhododendron flowers above 1,000 m in late May. But early June to mid-July is tsuyu, the rainy season and the year's wettest stretch.",52,{"phenomenon":241,"peakMonths":250,"note":251,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":252},[125,162],"Hatchlings scramble to the sea from late July and the water is warmest, near 28°C for snorkelling. But this is the typhoon window, when a single storm can ground ferries and flights for days, and the heat and humidity peak.",53,{"phenomenon":236,"peakMonths":254,"note":255,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":256},[163,164],"The second sweet spot: typhoons fade, the air turns mild and clear, and the rain-fed forest is at its greenest. These are the finest weeks for the Jomon Sugi and Miyanoura-dake hikes, before the shuttle-only access period ends on 30 November.",54,{"phenomenon":258,"peakMonths":259,"note":260,"requiresDarkSky":230,"sortOrder":261},"baseline",[],"The moss forest, the ancient cedars and the rain are here in every month; only the turtles and the summit snow keep a 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