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Abraham Lake

Abraham Lake

LakesCanadaAlberta,Canada

A Canadian reservoir whose winter ice traps rising methane in stacked white discs, kept clear as glass by valley gales that sweep the snow off.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Nov

Autumn empties out: the campgrounds close by early October, aspen turn gold along the shore, and the reservoir begins its slow winter drawdown. The lake is open, cooling water, past its turquoise and not yet frozen. Highway 11 stays ploughed and open.



Year-round The front range and Alberta's largest reservoir stand here every day, but the lake's face is never fixed: its level swings with winter drawdown and summer melt, its surface from turquoise to wind-polished black ice.

Abraham Lake is a reservoir in the front ranges of the Rockies in Alberta, and in winter it keeps its own gas where you can see it. The valley floor drowned in 1972, when the Bighorn dam closed off the North Saskatchewan, and the plants that went under are still rotting, sending methane up in steady threads. In winter the gas never reaches the air. The lake freezes from the top down, so each batch of bubbles is caught on its way up and set in place as the ice thickens. By January the ice holds them in tiers: a big disc near the surface, smaller ones fading into the dark below, each column one stream of methane frozen a layer at a time. Any other lake would be under snow. This valley is a wind tunnel, and days of gales scour the surface down to something like dark glass. From mid-January the ice is thick enough to walk on in cleats, and Preacher's Point freezes weeks before the rest of the lake. Where the sheet expands and buckles it throws up pressure ridges of broken slabs that curve for hundreds of metres. If you stand still out there you hear the ice working, deep cracks and booms travelling under your feet. The wind that keeps the surface clear will also knock you over, and drives the cold past minus twenty. The lake is named for Silas Abraham, a Stoney Nakoda hunter and guide who took some of the first Europeans through this valley. He died in 1964, eight years before the water covered the plains he had crossed. For most of the year there is no ice at all, just a long reservoir under the peaks, its shoreline bare where the water has been drawn down. It goes blue-green in July, when glacier melt loads it with rock flour. Every white disc is a pocket of methane, which traps roughly thirty times as much heat as carbon dioxide over a century. When the lake breaks up in spring, all of it goes straight into the air.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Ask a local outfitter about the ice before you step on it — conditions change from day to day, and the worst of it lies near steep banks, creek mouths and any snow-covered patch.
  • Snow is the enemy here, not cold — a fresh fall hides the bubbles until the wind scours the lake clean again, so the best days come after a windy cold snap.
  • Sunrise is late here in midwinter, so the best light is an easy hour to make; the valley wind also strengthens through the day, which means early is the calmer half of it.
  • Ice cleats are not optional — grip is the whole game on a surface this hard, and a windproof shell will do more for you out there than another warm layer.
  • Preacher's Point and Hoodoo Creek are the two roadside starts, both a short walk off Highway 11; the road is ploughed all winter, but fuel and food thin out west of Nordegg.

Things to do

  1. 1

    See the lake in its open-water months

    See the lake in its open-water months

    For most of the year there is no ice at all — just a long grey-blue reservoir under the front range, with the shoreline standing bare where the water has been drawn down. It is the quiet half of Abraham Lake, and almost nobody comes for it.

  2. 2

    Walk out over the bubble fields at Preacher's Point

    Walk out over the bubble fields at Preacher's Point

    Strap on cleats and step onto ice as smooth and hard as a windowpane, with the bubbles stretching out ahead of you. Preacher's Point freezes weeks before the rest of the lake and holds the densest concentrations, which is why most people start there. Lean over and the discs go down in tiers, a big one near the surface and smaller ones fading into the dark. Each column is a single stream of methane, caught one layer at a time as the ice thickened downward through the winter.

  3. 3

    Catch first light landing on the peaks

    Catch first light landing on the peaks

    Before the sun reaches the valley floor it hits the summits along the shore and sets them glowing copper, and the ice below picks the whole thing up. Get low and the mountain, its reflection and the bubbles line up in one frame.

  4. 4

    Follow the pressure ridges across the ice

    Follow the pressure ridges across the ice

    Where the sheet expands and buckles it throws up long ridges of broken slabs that curve for hundreds of metres across the lake. Stand still and you hear the ice work — deep cracks and booms travelling under your feet as it shifts.

Watch

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