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Spirit Island (Maligne)

Spirit Island (Maligne)

LakesCanadaAlberta,Canada

Fifty metres of gravel and wind-bent spruce fourteen kilometres down a glacier-fed lake in the Canadian Rockies, reachable only by boat.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Oct

September thins the crowds and cools the valley, the lake still open and turquoise under first snow on the high peaks. Sailings wind down and the season ends about October 11, weather permitting — then the boathouse closes for winter.


Year-round The islet and its wind-bent spruce sit in glacier-fed Maligne Lake all year, but the water shows turquoise only while it is free of ice, and it freezes white by late November. The one boat service runs from late May to early October.

Spirit Island is fifty metres of gravel and wind-bent spruce, fourteen kilometres down Maligne Lake in the Canadian Rockies, and there is no way to it but water. The boat takes ninety minutes to get you there. It threads between sheer rock walls with the surface dead still, and the colour deepens from milky green toward the glaciers at the far end. The island shows itself only at the last bend. The boat ties up at a wooden deck on the shore opposite: the tuft of spruce, the flat water, the peaks behind it. You get fifteen or twenty minutes there, and nobody steps onto the islet at all. The Stoney Nakoda hold it sacred: a place of healing, and in their telling the meeting place of two lovers from rival tribes. That is part of why the looking is done from across the water. The first sailing of the day is the one with the mirror on it; the wind usually takes that away later. Mary Schäffer came in 1908, the first non-Indigenous traveller to reach the lake, following a map a Stoney Nakoda man, Samson Beaver, had drawn from memory. She called the valley the Hall of the Gods. At the north end a flat loop of 3.2 kilometres passes the log boathouse Curly Phillips built in 1928 and ends at a viewpoint where panels hold her photographs up against the same water. The lake's name is French for wicked, given to the river below it for a dangerous ford rather than to this water, which is famous for lying still. The other way down is your own boat: fourteen kilometres of open water with no trail and no way back except paddling. Three small campgrounds break the trip, and the one at Fisherman's Bay lies two kilometres short of the island: a night there puts you on the deck before any cruise boat has left the north end.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Book the cruise well ahead in summer — a single operator runs the boats and the short viewing slots sell out; the alternative is a hard four-hour paddle each way.
  • The lake stays frozen into June — cruises run only from about June to early October, so a visit too early in spring can mean no boat at all.
  • The turquoise deepens the farther south you sail — the reach around Spirit Island lies closest to the glaciers, so the water glows a richer blue-green there than at the north-end docks.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cruise the lake to the Spirit Island platform

    Cruise the lake to the Spirit Island platform

    The only way in is a boat that threads fourteen kilometres down the largest lake in the Rockies, gliding between sheer rock walls with the water lying dead still. The colour shifts from milky green to deep turquoise as you near the glaciers, and Spirit Island appears only at the final bend. The boat ties up at a wooden deck on the shore opposite, where the famous view lines up exactly — the tuft of spruce, the still water, the peaks stacked behind. You get fifteen or twenty minutes on that deck, so work the light fast; nobody sets foot on the islet itself. Take the first sailing of the morning; the mirror on the water rarely survives once the wind builds.

  2. 2

    Walk the Mary Schäffer Loop to the lake viewpoint

    Walk the Mary Schäffer Loop to the lake viewpoint

    A flat 3.2-kilometre loop leaves the north-end car park and passes Curly Phillips's log boathouse, built in 1928, on its way to a viewpoint over the lake. Panels at the viewpoint set Mary Schäffer's 1908 photographs against the water in front of you. It is the one long view of Maligne Lake here that does not need a boat, and it takes about an hour.

  3. 3

    Paddle the fourteen kilometres and camp on the lake

    The other way to Spirit Island is your own boat: fourteen kilometres of open water from the launch at the north end, with no trail and no way back except paddling. Three small backcountry campgrounds break the trip — Hidden Cove, Fisherman's Bay and Coronet Creek at the far end — and all of them need a permit booked months ahead. Camping two kilometres short at Fisherman's Bay puts you at the islet before any cruise boat reaches it.

Watch

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