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Acatenango

Acatenango

PeaksGuatemalaChimaltenango,Guatemala

A Guatemalan volcano climbed in order to watch a different one erupt: Fuego throws glowing rock every fifteen minutes from a saddle two kilometres away.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Oct

September and October are the wettest months, when cloud is most likely to swallow Fuego and the summit for days on end. The overnight hike still runs and guides operate year-round, but this is the poorest bet for seeing an eruption.


Year-round From Acatenango's camp, neighbouring Volcán de Fuego erupts every 15 to 20 minutes year-round, glowing orange after dark; the dry season, November to March, gives the clearest nights.

Acatenango is a 3,976-metre volcano in the Guatemalan highlands west of Antigua, and people climb it in order to watch a different one. Across a saddle barely two kilometres wide stands Volcán de Fuego, which throws glowing rock above its summit every fifteen or twenty minutes. They are the same mountain. The massif has three mouths and has been growing southward: Yepocapa, the northern cone, fell quiet about 20,000 years ago, Pico Mayor rose beside it afterwards, and Fuego is the youngest of the three. That is why a night up here is safe and a night on Fuego would not be. The ridge you sleep on stopped erupting in 1972, and the newest vent at the far end never has. The climb is a full day and steep from the start, out of the maize fields on the lower slopes and up through moss-hung pine and oak wrapped in cold mist, on soft dark volcanic ground. Then the trees thin and stop, and you step onto open volcanic sand above a floor of white cloud with the highland ranges standing out of it like islands. The camps sit on the exposed ridge near 3,600 metres, facing Fuego across the saddle, and the ridge takes the wind. After dark the eruptions turn orange. A boom rolls across the saddle seconds after the flash, and the lava traces bright lines down the cone before it cools. Nights up here drop to around freezing. Nobody comes without a guide and proper gear. Before dawn the climb goes on to Pico Mayor, slow going at this height even for fit walkers, and you arrive as the light comes up, Agua and the ranges beyond it stacked across the horizon in flat blue layers. Acatenango's name is Nahuatl for the place of the reed walls, a farmer's name beside a peak the Spanish simply called Fire. On 3 June 2018 Fuego sent its flows down the far side and buried two villages, more than 190 people among them. The cone lighting your tent is that cone.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Go with a licensed guide and rent proper cold-weather gear — the exposed ridge drops to around freezing at night, and unprepared hikers have died of exposure here.
  • Fuego only glows after dark — its lava is invisible in daylight, so the overnight camp, not a day hike, is what earns you the eruptions and the dawn summit.
  • The dry season, November to March, gives the clearest views — through the May–October rains, cloud can bury Fuego and the summit for days and the trail turns to slick mud.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Watch Fuego erupt after dark

    Watch Fuego erupt after dark

    From the ridgeline camp, Volcán de Fuego throws glowing rock into the night every fifteen minutes or so. You watch the lava trace bright lines down its cone while a low boom rolls across the saddle toward you.

  2. 2

    Reach Pico Mayor at first light

    Reach Pico Mayor at first light

    Leave camp in the dark for the final climb to Acatenango's higher summit, Pico Mayor, at 3,976 metres — slow going even for fit walkers at this altitude. You arrive as the light comes up and the cone of Agua and the ranges beyond it stack across the horizon in flat blue layers, rising out of the cloud like islands. Fuego is lit from the side and rumbling below you. It is the widest view of the whole climb.

  3. 3

    Rise above the sea of cloud

    Rise above the sea of cloud

    The lower trail winds up through moss-hung pine and oak, often wrapped in cold mist, on soft dark ground thick with volcanic soil. That is the green, sheltered half of the ascent. Then the trees thin and give out, and you step onto open volcanic sand above a floor of white cloud with the highland ranges floating on top of it. From there the ground is loose ash and the ridge is fully exposed to the wind.

Watch

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