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Lake Atitlán

Lake Atitlán

LakesGuatemalaSololá,Guatemala

A Guatemalan lake 340 metres deep filling a collapsed supervolcano, three volcanic cones along its southern shore and Maya villages clinging to every other edge.

September·Quiet month

Sep–Oct

The wettest weeks — September brings the year's heaviest rain, some 25 rainy days, and cloud often hides the cones for days. Nothing shuts: the lanchas run shore to shore all year, but trails turn muddy and afternoons wash out.


Year-round The caldera lake and its three volcanoes are here year-round. Mornings lie mirror-still until the afternoon Xocomil wind picks up, and the dry months, November to April, are the clearest.

Lake Atitlán is a Guatemalan crater lake 340 metres deep with three volcanic cones along its southern shore, and there is no road around it because there is no flat ground to put one on. The walls of a collapsed supervolcano drop straight into the water, and the Maya villages hold the very edge. So the lake is the street. Small wooden boats called lanchas run shore to shore all day, from Panajachel across to San Marcos, San Juan, San Pedro and Santiago Atitlán, and you go when the boat fills. Every crossing puts the three cones at a different angle. Mornings are the good half of the day. The water lies mirror-still and Tz'utujil fishermen push out in slender wooden cayucos, standing up to cast by hand as the mist lifts off the surface. By early afternoon the wind they call Xocomil has raked the lake into whitecaps and the crossings turn wet enough to soak you. In San Juan La Laguna the weaving cooperatives take you from plant to cloth, dyeing home-grown cotton with indigo and cochineal before it goes onto the backstrap looms. Santiago Atitlán, the largest village, keeps Maximón, a folk saint who is a Maya deity, a Catholic figure and a colonial trickster all at once. His wooden effigy lives in a different household every year, wrapped in silk scarves with a lit cigarette between his lips, and people bring him cigars and liquor. The one walk everybody does starts in the dark. The ridge above the western shore is called Rostro Maya, the Indian Nose, for the reclining face its skyline traces. From the top you get the whole caldera, the lake below and all three cones taking the first light. One landing is missing from the run. Seventeen metres down, divers have mapped Samabaj — the plazas, altars and platforms of a Maya town that stood on an island here until the water rose and covered it whole.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • For a swim, head to Cerro Tzankujil at San Marcos — a small reserve where wooden platforms and a low cliff let you jump straight into water that stays deep and cool all year.
  • Panajachel and San Pedro are the busy hubs — for a quieter base, stay in San Marcos or San Juan and take the lanchas across for day trips to the livelier towns.
  • The lake turns rough after midday — the Xocomil wind comes up the crater most afternoons and the boat crossings get wet and hard; do the long hops in the morning.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Cross shore to shore by lancha

    Cross shore to shore by lancha

    Small wooden lanchas run shore to shore all day and are how everyone moves between the villages, from Panajachel across to San Marcos, San Juan, San Pedro and Santiago Atitlán. They leave when they fill rather than to a timetable, so agree the fare before you step in, since visitors are often quoted well above the local price. Cross in the morning if you can: the Xocomil wind gets up around midday and turns the ride choppy and wet. Every crossing puts the three volcanoes at a different angle.

  2. 2

    Wander the Tz'utujil weaving villages

    Wander the Tz'utujil weaving villages

    Behind the docks each Maya village keeps its own character — steep painted lanes, and workshops where Tz'utujil women dye home-grown cotton with indigo and cochineal, then weave it on backstrap looms. In San Juan La Laguna the cooperatives walk you through the whole process, from plant to finished cloth.

  3. 3

    Catch sunrise from the Indian Nose ridge

    Catch sunrise from the Indian Nose ridge

    Set out in the dark for the ridge the Maya call Rostro Maya, or Indian Nose, a skyline said to trace a reclining face. From the top you watch dawn spread across the whole caldera, the lake below and the three volcanoes catching the first light.

  4. 4

    Watch Tz'utujil fishermen in their cayucos

    Watch Tz'utujil fishermen in their cayucos

    At first light, Tz'utujil fishermen push out in slender wooden cayucos, standing to cast by hand as mist lifts off the surface — a daily rhythm little changed in generations. From the shore, or a passing lancha, you can watch them work the calm morning water.

Watch

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