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Geli Ali Beg Waterfall

Geli Ali Beg Waterfall

WaterfallsIraqErbil Governorate, Kurdistan Region,Iraq

A waterfall in a Zagros gorge in Iraqi Kurdistan, printed on the country's banknotes for decades, reached by a road cut through the canyon.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

The water is at its lowest and thinnest, but the heat eases to mild and the crowds fall away, leaving the rail and rocks calm. Boats wind down through October; the first rains by late November begin to swell the flow again.



Year-round The narrow limestone gorge, its layered cliffs and the cliff-cut Hamilton Road drive from Erbil are here every day of the year; the water's force, the boats and the crowds turn with the season.

Geli Ali Beg is a waterfall in a Zagros gorge in Iraqi Kurdistan, and most Iraqis have carried a picture of it in their pocket. It was on the five-dinar note through the 1970s and 1980s, and it is on the 5,000-dinar note in circulation today. Getting to it is half the drama. The highway through the Rawanduz canyon was blasted into the rock between 1928 and 1932 by a New Zealand engineer, Archibald Hamilton, who drove some 185 kilometres of road from Erbil to the Iranian border, and Kurds still call it the Hamilton Road. It clings to the canyon wall and swings out above a gorge hundreds of metres deep, so the country shows you its scale long before the waterfall does. At the falls the stream comes down a narrow chute, spreads across a limestone shelf and tips over a wide lip in a single white sheet. In spring the Zagros snowmelt runs the two stages together, and the whole staircase disappears under a brown flood. What happens at the bottom is a day out. The approach path you walk in on is lined with tea and kebab stalls under thatched shades, and on Fridays it fills with families out from Erbil and Soran, children tearing about with water guns while lunch is spread on the rocks by the river. A walkway with rustic timber railings runs along the foot of the cliff to a point level with the falling water, and that is how grandparents and toddlers get close enough to feel the spray. Nobody agrees how tall the drop is. Published figures run from about ten metres to a hundred, both repeated with confidence; reporting from the region puts it near twelve and still calls it the tallest in Iraq. The fame was never about the height. Down on the pool, boatmen haul battered inflatables along ropes strung across the water until you are sitting directly under the curtain. It lasts a few minutes, and there is no version of it in which you stay dry.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Decide which waterfall you want — the spring flood is loudest but buries the base in brown spray, while the green pool, with boats under the curtain, only appears once the flow drops.
  • Anything you carry onto a boat comes back wet — hand your phone and camera to someone on the walkway first, because the boatmen park you directly beneath the falling water.
  • Fridays and public holidays belong to Kurdish and Iraqi families, who fill the rocks and the walkway from mid-morning. Come on a weekday, or arrive early for space at the rail.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Follow the water down the stepped chute into the main drop

    Follow the water down the stepped chute into the main drop

    Above the plunge the stream comes down a narrow chute, spreads across a limestone shelf and then tips over the wide lip in one white sheet. In high water the two stages run together and the whole staircase disappears under the flood.

  2. 2

    Ride an inflatable to the foot of the curtain

    Ride an inflatable to the foot of the curtain

    Boatmen pull battered inflatables along ropes strung across the pool until you are sitting directly beneath the falling water; it lasts a few minutes, and there is no version of it where you stay dry. If you would rather not board a raft, a walkway with rustic timber railings runs along the foot of the cliff to a point level with the falling water. That is how grandparents and toddlers still get close enough to feel the spray.

  3. 3

    Eat kebab in the stall lane on a Friday

    Eat kebab in the stall lane on a Friday

    The approach path is lined with tea and kebab stalls under thatched shades, and on Fridays it fills with families out from Erbil and Soran. Children tear up and down with plastic water guns while lunch is spread out on the rocks by the river.

  4. 4

    Drive the Hamilton Road through the Rawanduz canyon

    Drive the Hamilton Road through the Rawanduz canyon

    The highway to the falls is a 1930s feat of blasting that clings to the canyon wall, swinging above a gorge hundreds of metres deep. Pull over at the lay-bys on the way in: the road delivers the drama long before the waterfall does.

Watch

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