The Ngozumpa is the longest glacier in the Himalaya, and it made all six of the Gokyo lakes near 5,000 metres in Nepal's Khumbu, west of Everest. Its lower reaches are not white at all: rock and sand come out of the melting ice and settle over it, so the last stretch reads as a grey valley of boulders. Its meltwater fills the lakes. The colour is its doing too: the water carries rock flour, particles ground so fine that they hang in it and scatter the light back blue-green. For much of the way the shore path rides the rubble ridges on top of the glacier itself. You walk with green water on one side and a grey world of moving ice on the other. Gokyo village, a cluster of lodges at 4,790 metres, stands on the third lake, Dudh Pokhari, and the path runs north past Thonak Cho, the largest and deepest, out to the quiet fifth.
The hill above the village is what most people come for. You leave in the dark around four and climb the switchbacks of Gokyo Ri to 5,357 metres, where the air holds about half the oxygen of sea level. As the sun comes up, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Cho Oyu catch fire one after another along the same horizon — four of the six highest mountains on Earth in one view, with the lakes and the glacier under your feet. Getting here takes about a week, climbing through Namche Bazaar with rest days built in, on a trail shared low down with the Everest Base Camp route. This is Sherpa country. Yak trains come down the narrow path with bells clanking, carrying supplies to villages no road reaches, and you step to the uphill side to let them by, because a nudge from a loaded animal on the outer edge has real consequences. The water itself is not only scenery. Hindus hold Dudh Pokhari the holiest of the six, watched over by a serpent, and each August pilgrims climb to nearly 4,750 metres to bathe in it while Brahmin priests renew their sacred threads.