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Great Ķemeri Bog

Great Ķemeri Bog

Wetlands & DeltasLatviaĶemeri National Park, Jūrmala,Latvia

Hundreds of black pools set in an 8,000-year-old Latvian moss bog, crossed on a boardwalk between pines a century old and no taller than you.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

The bog's finest hour: the vegetation burns amber and gold, and geese and cranes stream back south from late September into October.



Year-round The peat-brown pools, dwarf pines and boardwalk are here every day, free and open around the clock and never cleared of snow — but the pools freeze in winter and mosquitoes own the summer dawns.

The Great Ķemeri Bog is hundreds of black pools set in a plain of moss west of Riga, crossed on a boardwalk. A raised bog takes no water from the ground below it. The dome sits above the water table and lives on rainfall alone, and rain brings almost nothing with it, so everything here is on a starvation diet. The pines are the proof: a century old, and no higher than a metre or two. The planks carry you over ground that would swallow a boot to the knee — 1.4 kilometres on the short arc, 3.4 on the long one. Where a pool comes close to the boards the water is tea-brown with peat, and on a windless morning it holds the clouds almost exactly. Halfway round the long loop a wooden tower lifts you above the pines. From the top the bog is hundreds of black pools over flat moss, the boardwalk winding between them, and forest only as a distant rim. Wood sandpipers and golden plovers nest out on the open moss, and in Latvia these two breed on raised bogs and almost nowhere else. The plover's thin whistle carries a long way over flat ground. Beside the planks you find rosettes in the wet moss, a couple of centimetres across, red-haired and glistening. The round-leaved sundew cannot get nitrogen out of ground this starved, so it takes it from the flies that stick to those hairs. The heavy resinous smell along the boards is wild rosemary, and in a still, hot patch of it enough oil comes off the leaves to leave you light-headed. The bog did make somebody rich once. Its sulphur water turned Ķemeri into one of the fashionable spa towns of the Russian Empire, and the grandest hotel of them all, a hundred rooms nicknamed the White Ship, still stands at the edge of the moss. It has been empty since the 1990s, through three decades of failed sales.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come at first light and the bog is yours — the mist sits lowest in the first hour, and by mid-morning the narrow planks fill with walkers coming the other way.
  • The car park is paid and sits 800 metres short of the boardwalk — allow that walk each way, or ride the train to Ķemeri station and walk in from there.
  • The boards have no railing and turn greasy when wet or frosted — wear shoes that grip, and remember snow is never cleared here in winter.
  • Only the long 3.4 km loop reaches the tower — the short arc never gets there, and the flat panorama from the top is the one view the planks cannot give you.
  • Bring repellent from June to August — the standing water that makes the pools also breeds mosquitoes, and dawn and dusk, the best light, are their best hours too.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Step out onto 8,000 years of moss

    Step out onto 8,000 years of moss

    The planks carry you over ground that would swallow a boot to the knee: 1.4 kilometres on the short arc, 3.4 on the long one. Crouch where a pool comes closest to the boards and the water is tea-brown with peat, so still that on a windless morning it reflects the clouds almost exactly.

  2. 2

    Climb the tower and count the pools

    Climb the tower and count the pools

    Halfway around the long loop a wooden tower lifts you above the pines. From the top you see the whole bog at once: hundreds of black pools spread over the flat moss, the boardwalk winding between them, and forest only as a distant rim.

  3. 3

    Pick the waders out of the open moss

    Pick the waders out of the open moss

    Wood sandpipers and European golden plovers nest out on the open moss. In Latvia these two birds breed on raised bogs and almost nowhere else. Scan the flat ground beyond the planks early, and listen: the plover's thin whistle carries a long way over moss.

  4. 4

    Find the sundew that eats insects

    Find the sundew that eats insects

    Look down at the wet moss right beside the boards for a rosette the size of a coin, red-haired and glistening. The round-leaved sundew cannot get nitrogen from this starved ground, so it takes it from the flies that stick to those hairs.

Watch

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