Ventas Rumba is the widest waterfall in Europe and barely two metres high. It crosses the Venta at Kuldīga in western Latvia, 249 metres from bank to bank, and the spring melt widens it to nearly 270 metres. It is also eating itself from underneath. The hard upper layers of dolomite hold against the river while the softer stone below wears away faster, so the lip is left overhanging until a slab gives and drops and the fall backs a little further upstream. The near bank goes right up to the edge, so you can stand a single step from where the water tips over, level with it rather than above it, and the rush comes up through your feet. Mist lies on the Venta before the town is up, the sun comes along the river rather than across it, and ducks work the channels along the ledge. By late summer the river drops and the shelf surfaces, water sliding shin-deep over it. You can wade out and sit in the current, though the rock is furred with algae and the lip gives way without warning.
A step this low and this wide cannot be swum, so the fish take it in the air. From early April the vimba mass below the ledge and throw themselves at it, silver bodies out of the brown spring water, hanging a moment, dropping back. The run holds until about 10 May, and in autumn salmon and sea trout try the same wall. Nobody catches them now: fishing is closed through the spawning runs. Downstream a red brick bridge from 1874 still carries the road across, 164 metres and the longest brick road bridge in Europe in use. From the middle the falls line up end to end, with Kuldīga's old town on the far bank. On the morning of 23 June a crowd of locals strips off and runs across it while the town watches from the banks. Below the ledge the fish keep at it, hitting the rock and falling back, until you have stood there long enough to see one get over.