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Monte San Lorenzo

Monte San Lorenzo

PeaksArgentinaSanta Cruz,Argentina

Patagonia's second-highest summit and one of its least climbed, on the Argentine–Chilean border, guarded by weather so fierce fog can close the top within minutes.

September·Edge of season

Sep–Nov

Spring is the ski-mountaineering window: deep, stable snow and relatively light winds draw climbers onto the glaciers while the walking trails still lie buried. Days lengthen fast, and by November the trailhead ranch reopens for the season.


Year-round Patagonia's second-highest peak, its three glaciers and its valleys of lenga beech forest are here year-round; summer, November to March, is the season for walking those near-empty valleys below.

Monte San Lorenzo is the second-highest mountain in Patagonia, 3,706 metres on the border of Argentina and Chile, and one of the least climbed in the whole range. The weather is the reason. Fog can shut the summit within minutes of a clear sky, and wind and snow turn back most parties who try it. Fitz Roy, four hundred kilometres south, draws crowds to similar granite; this one is largely left alone. Three glaciers pour off it, two into Argentina and one into Chile, and each country has its own name for the mountain. Argentina calls it San Lorenzo, for the saint. Chile calls it Cochrane, after the British admiral who commanded the Chilean navy in the war of independence, a name the town and the lake at its foot carry too. Most people who come this far never intend to climb it. Trails take you through lenga and ñire beech forest and along cold glacial streams toward the foot of the mountain, and the loudest thing out there is the wind. You can walk for hours and cross nobody. Those woods hold the huemul, an endangered Andean deer down to about 1,500 animals in the wild and seen here more often than almost anywhere, with condors working the ridges above and guanacos out on the steppe. In late spring the valleys below the snowline green up and wildflowers open across the steppe, the gentlest stretch of the year between the retreating snow and the summer wind. The long approach ends at the De Agostini base camp under the hanging glaciers, where you wait out black, freezing hours before sunrise. Then the sun clears the steppe and strikes the high face first, so the peak is lit while the valleys around you are still in shadow. The camp is named for the man who reached the top first. Alberto María de Agostini was a Salesian priest who had spent decades mapping and photographing Patagonia, and it took him three summers to find a way up this mountain; he was sixty when he stood on it, in December 1943.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come between November and March, the Patagonian summer — the only stretch with workable weather, though wind and sudden storms never fully let go, so keep plans loose.
  • Stock up in Perito Moreno or Cochrane — the Chilean approach then runs through a family ranch that owns the base-camp valley, and its track is open only for the summer season.
  • Build in spare days and pack for four seasons — fog and gale can pin you down for a day here, so a rigid, fixed-date itinerary almost always breaks.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Walk the lenga valleys below the peak

    Walk the lenga valleys below the peak

    Follow the trails that thread the southern beech forest and glacial streams toward the mountain's base, where the loudest sound is the wind. This is Patagonia at its emptiest — you can walk for hours and cross no one. In late spring and early summer the valleys below the snowline green up and wildflowers open across the steppe, the gentlest season to be here between retreating snow and the summer wind.

  2. 2

    Attempt one of Patagonia's most feared summits

    Attempt one of Patagonia's most feared summits

    For experienced mountaineers, San Lorenzo is a serious, technical climb through crevassed glaciers and granite towers, defended by weather that turns many parties back. The standard line, the route De Agostini found after three summers of looking, starts from a camp north of the mountain and swings all the way round to climb the western slope.

  3. 3

    Hold the pre-dawn cold at the De Agostini base camp

    Hold the pre-dawn cold at the De Agostini base camp

    Hike the long approach to the De Agostini base camp below the hanging glaciers, then wait out the dark, freezing hours before sunrise. When the sun clears the steppe it strikes the high face first, lighting the peak while the valleys around you stay in shadow. The same reward comes when a Patagonian storm finally tears apart and low sun pours violet and gold across the wet granite and ice.

Watch

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