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Osorno Volcano & Petrohué Falls

Osorno Volcano & Petrohué Falls

PeaksChileLos Lagos,Chile

A near-perfect snow cone standing 2,652 metres between two Chilean lakes, doubled in the water, with boardwalks over the chutes its own lava carved.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

Snow settles on the flanks and the Volcán Osorno centre opens its lifts for skiing. The cone is at its whitest. Bright days stay few, so come for the slopes rather than the reflection. The falls, the park and the daily Cruce Andino crossing all run right through.


Year-round The snow-capped cone, its two lakes and the basalt falls are here year-round. The southern summer, December to March, brings the settled, mirror-still days.

At the foot of Osorno, a volcano of near-perfect symmetry standing 2,652 metres between two lakes in southern Chile, the river is running through what the mountain threw down. An old lava flow off Osorno crossed the outflow of Lake Todos los Santos and hardened into black basalt. The Petrohué has been cutting into it ever since, so the river arrives at a maze of narrow chutes and drops through a dozen falls at once, glacial green over dark rock. Wooden walkways thread the forest and put you on overlooks above the water. The noise drowns out conversation and cold mist drifts over the rail onto you. From the shore at Ensenada, on the other lake, the cone stands directly across the water and doubles in it on a windless morning. Llanquihue is big enough that a breeze from any direction breaks the image, so the still hour after dawn is the reliable one. A covered chairlift climbs from the ski base over slopes of black scoria and old snow to a platform well below the ice cap. From up there you have the two lakes on either side of the cone, one green, one deep blue. Above it the mountain turns to bare glacier, and the crater is about six hours up on snow that steepens the whole way, roped and with a guide. Charles Darwin watched Osorno erupt at night from the Beagle in 1835, and when an earthquake levelled Concepción weeks later he read the two as one underground force. The volcano has been quiet since 1869. No road was ever cut along Todos los Santos, so the way east is still by water. A catamaran carries you the green length of it from Petrohué to Peulla, a settlement no road reaches, the shores on either side too steep to walk. Back at the falls the two banks are not even the same rock. The river cuts through Osorno's own lava on one side, and the steep bank opposite is the coarse, granite-like rock the volcano was built on.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come early for the cone — Osorno often wraps itself in cloud by midday, so the symmetrical snow peak shows clearest just after dawn on a settled, windless morning.
  • The falls change colour with the weather — the Petrohué runs its brightest glacial green on clear, low-water days and turns grey and silt-heavy after heavy mountain rain.
  • Pack rain gear whatever the forecast — this is Valdivian rainforest and heavy showers sweep in fast, even across the clearer summer months from December to March.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride the chairlift up Osorno's slopes

    Ride the chairlift up Osorno's slopes

    Board the covered chairlift above the ski base and rise over slopes of black scoria and old snow. It runs to a platform well below the ice cap, where the marked walking ends for anyone without rope and crampons. From up there the two lakes lie on either side of the cone, one green, one deep blue.

  2. 2

    Walk the boardwalks over the Petrohué chutes

    Walk the boardwalks over the Petrohué chutes

    Wooden walkways thread through the forest to a string of overlooks above the falls. The two banks are different rock: the river cuts through an old Osorno lava flow, while the steep left bank is granodiorite, the coarse granite-like rock the volcano was built on. The roar drowns out conversation and cold spray drifts over the rail.

  3. 3

    Climb the ice cap to Osorno's crater

    Above the ski slopes Osorno turns to bare glacier, and the summit is reached only with a guide, roped and in crampons. The climb takes around six hours up, on snow that steepens the whole way to the crater rim. From the top, Llanquihue and Todos los Santos lie on either side of the cone.

  4. 4

    Catch Osorno's cone doubled in the lake

    Catch Osorno's cone doubled in the lake

    From the shore at Ensenada the cone stands directly across the water and doubles in it on a windless morning. Llanquihue is big enough that a breeze from any direction breaks the image, so the still hour after dawn is the reliable one. Black volcanic sand runs along this stretch of shore, left by the flows that reached the lake.

  5. 5

    Cross Todos los Santos toward the Andes

    Cross Todos los Santos toward the Andes

    Board a catamaran at Petrohué and cross the green length of Todos los Santos to Peulla, the settlement at the far end that no road reaches. Osorno stands behind you most of the way and Tronador ahead, and the shore on either side is forest too steep to walk. This is the first leg of the old lake-and-road crossing to Bariloche in Argentina.

Watch

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