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Phobjikha Valley

Phobjikha Valley

ValleysBhutanWangdue Phodrang,Bhutan
Fragile nature — stay on the trail, leave no trace.

A flat-bottomed glacial valley in Bhutan where most of the country's black-necked cranes winter, its power lines buried underground to keep them safe.

September·Quiet month

Jun–Sep

Summer monsoon rain, heaviest in July, keeps the marsh a wet green grazed by yaks, horses and cattle; cloud often hides the ridges and no cranes remain. Nothing shuts, though the drive over Lawa La runs wet and slow.



Year-round The glacial valley, its potato fields and farmhouses, and Gangtey Goenpa on its ridge are here year-round. The cranes, the frosts and the marsh's turn from green to gold change with the seasons.

Phobjikha is a flat-bottomed glacial valley in Bhutan where most of the country's black-necked cranes spend the winter, and the valley put its power lines underground so the birds would not fly into them. About 650 come in off the Tibetan Plateau at the end of October and leave in mid-February. From the viewing points along the wetland you watch them work the marsh, probing the wet ground with long bills for the rhizomes they live on, black necks bright against pale winter grass. The conservation centre above the marsh keeps telescopes trained on the roost, so you can get close to the birds without pushing them off it. Above it on its spur stands Gangtey Goenpa, founded in 1613 and the largest Nyingma monastery in the country. Out of the courtyard, inside the main hall, the walls close in on you with murals: Buddhas and protective deities in gold, red and deep blue on carved and painted timber. Almost none of that woodwork is original. Beetle larvae ate through the old timber, and between 2001 and 2008 conservators replaced most of it and raised more than a hundred new pillars, copying the detail as they went. The valley's walk drops from the monastery spur through pine forest, past a mani wall, and flattens out among farmhouses, wooden fences and grazing cattle on the floor. It runs a few kilometres, takes about two hours and is almost all downhill, with the gold roof behind you most of the way. Level marsh-edge tracks carry on between yaks, horses and herders' whistles, and ground this flat is a rare thing in a country of steep gorges. Once a year the courtyard fills for the crane festival, monks dancing masked cham while schoolchildren in white costumes bow and flap their way through the birds' arrival. In summer, with the cranes gone north, the floor is green pasture under dark pine slopes. Those herds are not competing with the birds either. Grazing keeps the dwarf bamboo resprouting across the marsh, and the bamboo is exactly what the cranes come down here to dig for.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Dawn and dusk are the two crane hours — the birds spread out to feed in the harvested fields by day and fly back to roost on the marsh at nightfall, calling as they come.
  • Stay on the marked paths and bring binoculars — the roost is off-limits and the birds flush easily, so the closest honest look comes through glass rather than by walking nearer.
  • The monastery spur is the valley's natural overlook — from up here the whole marsh, its winding stream and the scattered farmhouses lay themselves out below you in one frame.
  • The Black-Necked Crane Festival is a single day, 11 November — the valley's handful of lodges fill months ahead, so book early or come a week later for empty trails.
  • At 3,000 metres the nights bite even in the sunny crane season — farmhouse lodgings are heated by one wood stove in the main room, so bring proper layers rather than counting on the building.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Spot black-necked cranes digging the marsh

    Spot black-necked cranes digging the marsh

    From the viewing points along the wetland you watch the cranes work the bamboo, probing the wet ground for rhizomes with their long bills, black necks bright against the pale winter grass. The RSPN crane centre above the marsh keeps telescopes trained on the roost, so you can get close to the birds without pushing them off it.

  2. 2

    Explore Gangtey Monastery's painted interior

    Explore Gangtey Monastery's painted interior

    Step out of the courtyard into the main hall and the walls close in with murals — Buddhas and protective deities in gold, red and deep blue, carried on carved and painted timber. Founded in 1613, this is Bhutan's largest Nyingma monastery and still an active monastic seat, so you share the hall with monks at their chanting. The same courtyard fills once a year for the Black-Necked Crane Festival, when monks dance masked cham and schoolchildren in white crane costumes bow and flap through the birds' arrival.

  3. 3

    Walk the Gangtey Nature Trail down to the marsh

    Walk the Gangtey Nature Trail down to the marsh

    The valley's classic walk drops from the monastery spur through pine forest and past a mani wall, then flattens out among farmhouses, wooden fences and grazing cattle on the valley floor. It runs a few kilometres and takes about two hours, almost all of it gently downhill, with the gold roof behind you most of the way. Level marsh-edge tracks carry on from there between yaks, horses and herders' whistles; walking this flat is rare in a country of steep gorges. In summer, with the cranes gone north, the valley floor is simply green pasture under dark pine slopes.

Watch

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