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Retezat National Park

Retezat National Park

PeaksRomaniaHunedoara,Romania

More than eighty glacial lakes in a single granite range, one hanging above the next, in mountains that carry a third of Romania's plant species.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

Snow-free at last: the mountain lakes lie ice-free and mirror-still, and every hut and lake-to-lake traverse is running. The dwarf mountain rhododendron of the high meadows is known here as smirdar. By September the crowds thin and the high walking turns crisp and stable.



Year-round Retezat's eighty glacial lakes and granite peaks — the 'land of blue eyes' — are here year-round; the summer meadows bloom once the snow clears, and October storms close the ridges.

Retezat is a granite range in the Southern Carpathians of Romania with more than eighty glacial lakes in it, one cirque hanging above the next. Romanians call it the land of blue eyes, and the lakes are the walk. From the Cârnic trailhead the path climbs through old beech and spruce, past meltwater gathering into cascades among the trees. The timber ends and you come out at Bucura in its open cirque at 2,040 metres, the largest glacial lake in the country. Tents go up along its shore, and the trails fan out from there to the next basins. By evening the granite peaks have laid themselves across the water. Peleaga, the high point at 2,509 metres, is a few hours above it over boulder fields. From the top the crests roll away in every direction and the scattered lakes come into view, cirque below cirque under your boots. Below the tree line the forest belt is the other half of the range, cooler and greener, and where you go on a day when cloud has swallowed the ridges. The meadows between the lakes hold more than a third of every plant species recorded in Romania, and through July and August they come up in gentians and dwarf rhododendron. Semi-wild horses are turned out on the high pastures for the summer and drift loose among the cirques, unbothered by you walking past between the tarns. The marmots whistling off the scree have a shorter history here than they look: seventeen were carried from the Alps and released in 1973, and their descendants now range over the whole park. The chamois on the ridges have held them since the Ice Age. The name means severed. Folklore blames two giant brothers who fell out over these mountains: the loser took a scythe to the peak and left its top flat, and his severed hand dropped into the range. Its fingers are the four small lakes still called Lia, Ana, Viorica and Florica. Its palm is Bucura, where the tents are.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Best from July to September — snow lingers at the higher lakes into late June, and the first autumn storms usually close the high traverses by early October.
  • Weather turns within the hour up here — carry a map, compass and layers, because cloud can swallow the ridges and the painted route-marks vanish in fog.
  • The Gemenele core reserve is off-limits — its strictly protected heart needs written permission from the Romanian Academy to enter, so plan your route to skirt it.
  • Camp only in marked areas and light fires only at Poiana Pelegii — store food well away from the tents, since this is bear and wolf country.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Hike to Lake Bucura

    Hike to Lake Bucura

    Follow the classic climb from Cârnic up to Bucura, the largest glacial lake in Romania, sitting in an open cirque at 2,040 metres. The shore is the natural base camp for the range, and by evening the granite peaks lay their reflection across the still water.

  2. 2

    Climb Peleaga, the highest peak

    Climb Peleaga, the highest peak

    Ascend Peleaga, at 2,509 metres the highest summit of the Retezat. From the top the granite crests roll away in every direction and the scattered blue lakes come into view all at once, cirque after cirque below your boots.

  3. 3

    Find a cascade in the forest belt

    Find a cascade in the forest belt

    Drop below the tree line into the forest belt, where meltwater streams gather into cascades among the old beech and spruce. It is a cooler, greener counterpoint to the bare granite above, and a good turnaround on a day when cloud has closed the high ridges.

  4. 4

    Watch the horses on the high pastures

    Watch the horses on the high pastures

    In summer, semi-wild horses are left to graze the open pastures around the massif, and you may meet them loose among the meadows and cirques. Give them room; they wander freely here, unbothered by the hikers passing between the lakes.

Watch

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