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Transfăgărășan

Transfăgărășan

Engineering MarvelsRomaniaSibiu,Romania

Ninety kilometres of road blasted over Romania's highest mountains after the Prague Spring, sixty hairpins to 2,042 metres, built at the cost of forty lives.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

There are far fewer coaches than in August, but the road can shut again without warning with the first autumn storm.



Year-round The hairpin mountain road, Bâlea Lake and the glacier-carved bowl it sits in are here year-round, but the high pass over the ridge is only open from about July to October.

The Transfăgărășan is ninety kilometres of road blasted over the highest mountains in Romania, and it was ordered out of fear. After Soviet tanks went into Czechoslovakia in 1968, Ceaușescu wanted a way for his army to cross the Făgăraș if Moscow came for him next. Soldiers cut it between 1970 and 1974 with six thousand tonnes of dynamite, and about forty of them died doing it. What they left is a chain of sixty hairpin bends climbing to 2,042 metres. From the north the road leaves the forest for raw granite and verges where snow survives the summer, then stacks its switchbacks up a mountain wall, each bend turning you onto a new drop. Nobody drives it in top gear. At the summit it reaches Bâlea Lake, a glacial tarn in a bowl of rock, cold enough in August to shock your hand, with cloud spilling over the cirque walls. From a pullout near the top the road you have just driven is folded loop over loop down the mountainside. In the evening the low light slides along the coils and the whole descent goes amber before it fades to blue. Beyond the lake a tunnel runs through the ridge, and the southern arm drops through pine forest to Lake Vidraru, a reservoir behind a tall dam. On a crag above the water stand the ruins of Poenari, the stronghold Vlad the Impaler actually used, a thousand steps up the cliff. In October the beech forest on the lower slopes turns gold around you while the hairpins still run through it. The pass is barred by snow for most of the year. When it is, the top is reached by cable car, and on the frozen lake a hotel is cut out of the ice each winter, walls, beds and bar, and melts away in the spring. For a road built to move an army over these mountains, it spends more of the year shut than open.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Check the summit is actually open before you go — the top of the pass clears only after the snow melts, often not until July, and can shut again with the first autumn storms.
  • In winter the pass is shut, but the top still opens by cable car — the Bâlea Cascadă gondola climbs to the frozen lake and its ice hotel.
  • Stop for the roadside waterfalls — the Capra falls spill right beside the southern climb, and near the summit a short trail or the gondola drops you at the foot of the Bâlea cascade.
  • Brown bears work the roadside for handouts — feeding them is illegal and heavily fined, tourists leaning from car windows have been mauled, and a bear that learns to beg is usually shot.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Drive the sixty hairpin bends

    Drive the sixty hairpin bends

    Take the wheel for the road's headline act: an unbroken chain of tight switchbacks stacked up the mountain wall, each one opening onto a new drop and a new sweep of valley. Second gear, sweating palms, and a fresh view around every bend — this is the stretch that made the road's name.

  2. 2

    Stand at Bâlea Lake on the summit

    Stand at Bâlea Lake on the summit

    At the highest point the road reaches Bâlea Lake, a glacial tarn held in a bowl of rock at over two thousand metres. Walk its shore to the wooden chalet, feel how cold the water stays even in August, and watch cloud spill over the cirque walls above.

  3. 3

    See the road unwind from above

    See the road unwind from above

    From a pullout near the summit, look back down at the Transfăgărășan folding on itself in loop after loop, a pale ribbon stitched across the mountainside. Up here the forest is gone and the road runs through raw granite, drifting cloud and snow patches that survive the summer. Step out into the thin, cold air and the high Făgăraș ridges stand silent on every side. Stay into the evening and low light slides along the coils, setting the whole descent glowing amber before it fades from gold into blue shadow.

  4. 4

    Descend past Lake Vidraru

    Descend past Lake Vidraru

    Follow the quieter southern arm of the road as it drops from the tunnel through pine forest to Lake Vidraru, a long reservoir held back by a tall dam wall. The curves ease, the crowds thin, and the water shifts from steel grey to deep blue as the valley opens toward Wallachia.

Watch

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