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Senja

Senja

IslandsNorwayTroms,Norway

A Norwegian Arctic island with two halves: sails and spires of ice-ground rock on the outer coast, rounded forest and farms behind them.

September·Peaking now

Sep–Oct

Darkness returns and the aurora is back over Okshornan; September brings autumn colour on the birch slopes and the ferry's last weeks — it stops in late September — while October nights turn long and the road empties.



Year-round Segla, Okshornan and the working fishing villages stand year-round; on Senja it is the light that has a season, not the rock.

Senja is Norway's second-largest island, up in Troms at 69 degrees north, and it has two sides. The outer coast is ice-ground rock rising sheer from the water in sails and spires; behind it the island goes round and soft, into forest and farms. The sail is Segla, and the photograph everyone has seen of it was not taken on it. The path out of Fjordgård climbs to a saddle and forks. One branch goes up Segla itself, an airy scramble along the top of the cliff. The other goes to Hesten, where the wall stands opposite you across the gap, with the fjords, the ridges and the open Atlantic below. From the shore of Mefjorden first, the mountain reads as its name says — a sail raised off the sea — so the scale arrives twice in one day. Tungeneset works the same way. A wooden walkway runs out over glacier-polished rock to the tip of the headland, and Okshornan's row of spikes rises out of the sea across from you. There is no route-finding involved, which counts after dark: from September to March the aurora works above those same peaks. The road from Botnhamn to Gryllefjord threads 102 kilometres of ledges, tunnels and hairpins, and every bend hands you another fjord. At Bergsbotn a platform puts you out in mid-air above the water. Husøy is a whole village pressed onto a rock in the middle of a fjord, tied to Senja by a causeway, with cod on the drying racks and boats sliding in and out late into the bright night. Inland, the pines of Ånderdalen are small, gnarled and very slow, and some of them are over six hundred years old. One thing here has no viewpoint. Some winters humpbacks and orcas follow the overwintering herring into these waters, and some winters they do not. The shoals keep changing where they spend the winter, and the whales go where the fish go. The operators say so plainly and run no whale trips; a whale here can only be a surprise.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • The last pull onto Segla's summit is an exposed scramble along the top of the cliff, serious in wind or on wet rock; the Hesten side is a walk, and it holds the better view anyway.
  • The Gryllefjord–Andenes ferry runs only in summer and cannot be booked — queue early. Outside the season you reach Senja over the bridge at Finnsnes, which is a long way round.
  • Give the aurora several nights, not one — Atlantic weather crosses the island in bands, and a sky that is shut at dusk often opens after midnight.
  • The car parks are the bottleneck, not the island — Fjordgård, Tungeneset and Ersfjord hold only a handful of cars and fill by mid-morning in July.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Climb the Hesten trail for the Segla view

    Climb the Hesten trail for the Segla view

    The path out of Fjordgård climbs to a saddle and forks: one branch to Hesten, where Segla's wall stands opposite you across the gap, and one to Segla's own airy summit. From up there the fjords, ridges and open Atlantic spread out below you. Look at the same mountain from the shore of Mefjorden first and it reads as what its name says — a sail hoisted straight out of the water — so the scale lands twice in one day.

  2. 2

    Meet the Devil's Teeth at Tungeneset

    Meet the Devil's Teeth at Tungeneset

    A wooden walkway runs out over glacier-polished rock to the tip of the headland, and Okshornan's row of spikes rises straight from the sea in front of you. There is no route-finding, which matters after dark: from September to March the aurora works above those same peaks, with open sea lying west.

  3. 3

    Watch the boats come in at Husøy

    Watch the boats come in at Husøy

    Husøy is a whole village pressed onto a rock in the middle of a fjord, tied to Senja by a causeway. Cod hangs on the drying racks, the fish plant runs on its own hours, and boats slide in and out of the little harbour late into the bright night.

  4. 4

    Drive the road from Botnhamn to Gryllefjord

    Drive the road from Botnhamn to Gryllefjord

    The 102-kilometre scenic route threads narrow ledges, tunnels and hairpins along the outer coast, and every bend hands you a new fjord. Stop at the Bergsbotn platform, where the deck ends in mid-air above the water, and at the beach at Ersfjord.

Watch

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