The main trail in Wadi Mujib is a swim, and it runs upstream. The canyon opens onto the Dead Sea shore in Jordan, on lower ground than any other nature reserve occupies. The route in starts dry, on a walkway bolted to the cliff that carries you into the mouth of the gorge. After that the water takes over. Two kilometres of red sandstone slot, a life jacket, and a stream coming the wrong way at you the whole time. One minute you are wading ankle-deep, the next you are swimming a pool with no floor under it, and then you are hauling yourself up the next cascade on a fixed rope. The walls stand close together and the gorge lies in shadow for most of the day.
Midday is the exception, and it is worth pacing the climb for. For a while the sun stands high enough to drop into the slot, and the wet Nubian sandstone on both sides turns from shadow-grey to warm copper. The way up ends at a waterfall pouring down between the walls, with a pool at its foot to stand in and take the hammering. Then the river does the return: you let go and it carries you back down every pool you fought up, faster and with none of the work. This little stream was once one of the best-known borders in the ancient Near East, the Arnon of the Bible, the line where Moab ended, and it still separates two Jordanian governorates. Nubian ibex were shot out of the cliffs above it and bred back in the reserve, and a few hundred now live on those walls. In winter, when floods make the gorge too dangerous and the wet trails shut, a guided ridge walk goes up through them on dry ground. The day ends where it began, two minutes' walk from the life jackets: you spend hours swimming up fresh water, then step into the Dead Sea and it will not let you sink.