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Bokor Mountain

Bokor Mountain

PeaksCambodiaKampot,Cambodia

A 1921 French hill station a thousand metres above Cambodia's coast, drowned in cloud for months and built at the cost of 900 workers' lives.

September·Peaking now

Jun–Oct

The southwest monsoon drowns the plateau, and rain-fed Popokvil thunders down both tiers — wettest and loudest through August and September.



Year-round The bullet-scarred church, the colonial ruins and the endemic pitcher plants are here all year; only the cloud, the waterfall and the clear Gulf view are seasonal.

Bokor was built in nine months, and it cost roughly nine hundred lives. In 1921 French overseers drove Cambodian and Vietnamese labourers up a jungle escarpment in Kampot province to cut a road and put a retreat from the lowland heat on the plateau above, a thousand metres up. Malaria, dysentery, exhaustion and rockfall did the killing. What they made is still up there and mostly empty — and for months not visible at all. Monsoon air off the Gulf is forced up the escarpment and condenses, so the ruins fade into moving cloud and harden back out of it while you watch, often within a minute. The dry northeast monsoon strips that cloud off, the one window when the cliff edge behind the old casino opens onto the Gulf and the silhouette of Phu Quoc. The building you walk into is the Catholic church, standing alone on open ground, render blackened, walls holed by gunfire, candles still on the altar. Those holes are not decay: someone cut one to shoot through. When Vietnamese forces invaded in 1979, Khmer Rouge fighters dug into the hill station and held it for months, using the church as a strongpoint, and they stayed on this mountain into the early 1990s. From there you pick your way across lichen-covered boulders to the old water tower on the skyline, far enough from the church to show how much the French built here. Wat Sampov Pram, the plateau's working temple, is packed with gilded Buddhas, painted disciples and naga serpents, candlelit in the damp while the fog presses at the doorway behind you. Late in the monsoon the Popokvil comes over the lip in a brown roaring sheet; in the dry months it is a bare rock staircase with a trickle down it. Out on the open heath the pitcher plant hangs its traps among the grass, vessels furred with silver hair that drown whatever falls in. A French collector picked the first ones here in January 1904; they sat in a Paris herbarium until 2009, when the species was finally described. It grows on this mountain and nowhere else.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Come at first light and accept the gamble — the plateau often clears soon after dawn and clouds back in by mid-morning, so the ruins are sharpest before about 10am.
  • The cliff edge behind the Palace is the whole point — on a clear dry-season day the jungle drops away to the Gulf and the Vietnamese island of Phu Quoc sits out on the horizon.
  • Look at the pitcher plants, but never pick one — uprooting Nepenthes bokorensis for photographs became common enough that Cambodia's environment ministry ran a public campaign to stop it.
  • Dress as if for another country — a thousand metres of altitude strips the coastal heat away, and riding up by scooter through drifting cloud turns cold and slippery fast.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Step inside the bullet-scarred church

    Step inside the bullet-scarred church

    The shell of the Catholic church stands alone on open ground, its render blackened, its walls holed by gunfire, its altar still carrying candles. From there you can pick your way across the plateau's lichen-covered boulders to the old water tower on the skyline. The scale of what the French built up here only lands on foot.

  2. 2

    Meet the crowded Buddhas of Wat Sampov Pram

    Meet the crowded Buddhas of Wat Sampov Pram

    The plateau's working temple is packed shoulder to shoulder with gilded Buddhas, painted disciples and green naga serpents, all of it lit by candles in the damp air. Monks and Khmer families come up here to make offerings while the fog presses against the doorway.

  3. 3

    Catch Popokvil in full flood

    Catch Popokvil in full flood

    Late in the monsoon the river comes over the lip in a brown, roaring sheet and drops through the jungle in two tiers, loud enough to hear before you see it. Come in the dry months and you get the honest version: a bare rock staircase with a trickle running down it.

  4. 4

    Hunt for the pitcher plants in the scrub

    Out on the open heath, Nepenthes bokorensis hangs its traps among the grass — hand-length vessels, furred with silvery hair, that drown the insects which fall in. The plant grows on this mountain and nowhere else in the world. Crouch, photograph, and leave it rooted.

Watch

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