The Fürstensteig is a shoulder-wide ledge blasted into a cliff face in the Rätikon Alps above Vaduz, in Liechtenstein, with a steel cable bolted alongside for a handhold and the Rhine Valley 1,600 metres below. It was cut in 1898 for the fiftieth anniversary of Prince Johann II's reign, which is where the name comes from. It was paid for in thirds: by the state, by the prince, and by Karl Schädler, who owned the hotel the path starts from and needed guests. Schädler had bought the alp at Gaflei in 1872 and turned it into Liechtenstein's first spa, enlarging it to a hundred beds just as the path was being built. The spa came down in 1961, and the car park in front of the clinic that replaced it is where you set off.
The first hour is kind. A path climbs through spruce and comes out onto grass where the whole flank of the Rätikon opens ahead of you, with the cut line of the trail visible across the slope long before you reach it. Then the ledge. In places it runs right at the lip, with nothing between your boot and the valley floor, and Vaduz, the Rhine and the vineyards lie flat below you like a map. On the inner side rock spires rise straight off the path, their ledges cushioned with alpine rose and dwarf pine holding on to whatever grit the wind has left. Beyond the Kuhgrat the traverse drops to the Three Sisters, where a summit cross marks the Great Sister at 2,053 metres and a scramble over loose rock earns the widest view of the day, out across two countries at once. The rock was climbed long before the path existed: the first recorded ascent came in June 1870, twenty-eight years before anyone cut a path toward it. The three peaks have their own story. Three young women went picking berries on Lady's Day while the church bells rang, and when a woman asked them for some they refused; she told them that hearts of stone should stand as stone forever.