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Matterhorn

Matterhorn

PeaksSwitzerlandZermatt,Switzerland

A 4,478-metre rock pyramid over car-free Zermatt in Switzerland, where modern climbing was born, doubled in the Riffelsee on a still dawn.

September·Peaking now

Jul–Sep

The Hörnli Hut is open from late June to late September, and the ridge is climbed in those weeks. Zermatt's hiking lifts and trails all run, the meadows are in flower, and Riffelsee is clear enough to hold the Matterhorn's reflection.



Year-round The pyramid fills the end of Zermatt's main street every day of the year, above a village closed to combustion engines since 1966, and the Theodul glacier below it carries permanent snow and ice.

The Matterhorn is a 4,478-metre pyramid of rock standing on its own above the village of Zermatt, in Switzerland. Modern mountaineering was born on it and lost four men on the same afternoon. Edward Whymper's party reached the top from the Zermatt side on 14 July 1865. On the way down one of them slipped and pulled three others after him. The rope parted under the load, and four of the seven fell. That rope is in a case in the village museum, and a glance shows what went wrong: it is the oldest and thinnest of the ones they carried. Three days later Jean-Antoine Carrel reached the summit from the Italian side. He had been Whymper's climbing partner for years before they fell out, and had been racing him up the opposite ridge the whole time. The open cogwheel railway climbs out of Zermatt to Gornergrat at 3,089 metres, where the pyramid stands across the valley with the Gorner Glacier sweeping round below it like a frozen sea. On the way down the train stops at Rotenboden, and a short walk from the platform brings you to the small Riffelsee, which turns the whole mountain upside down on a windless morning. The other hour worth the alarm is dawn, when the first light lands on the summit alone and works down the pyramid from pink to red while the valley is still dark. Down in the village there is nothing to hear. Zermatt allows no petrol or diesel engines, so you arrive by train and the lanes carry electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages, the pyramid closing the end of the main street. The rock up at the top is not from this continent: the summit block is African gneiss, shoved over European rock when the two plates met. From the street outside the museum you can follow the Hörnli ridge with your eye all the way up, the line they climbed and the line they were on when the rope went.

Worth knowing

Good to know

  • Mornings are clearest — the peak often gathers a banner of cloud by midday and the first cog trains are quietest, so ride up early for the sharpest view and the softest light.
  • Pick your balcony — Gornergrat for the glacier-and-peaks panorama, Rotenboden for the Riffelsee reflection, and Sunnegga–Rothorn for the quietest, closest angle on the face.
  • July and August are the green window — high trails and lifts run reliably snow-free and the meadows below are in bloom; by autumn the first snow returns and the peak turns wintry again.

Things to do

  1. 1

    Ride the cog train to Gornergrat and the Riffelsee mirror

    Ride the cog train to Gornergrat and the Riffelsee mirror

    Ride the open-air cogwheel railway from Zermatt up to Gornergrat at 3,089 metres, where the Matterhorn stands across the valley with the Gorner Glacier sweeping around it like a frozen sea. Break the trip at Rotenboden on the way down: little Riffelsee lies a short walk from the platform, and on a windless morning it turns the whole pyramid upside down.

  2. 2

    Watch the alpenglow at dawn

    Watch the alpenglow at dawn

    Climb to a vantage point before the sun rises; catch those few minutes when the first light touches only the summit, painting the pyramid first pink then fiery red while the lower slopes still lie in darkness.

  3. 3

    Wander car-free Zermatt

    Wander car-free Zermatt

    Zermatt bans petrol and diesel vehicles, so the only traffic in its narrow lanes is electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages. Walk them slowly, past the old wooden houses and along the main street, which the Matterhorn closes off at its far end. Without engine fumes the air stays as clean as it is on the slopes above.

  4. 4

    Follow in Whymper's footsteps

    Follow in Whymper's footsteps

    At the town's Matterhorn Museum, see the rope that snapped during the first ascent in 1865, along with climbing gear of the era. Then step outside and look up at the sharp line of the Hörnli ridge: that is the route Whymper's party climbed, and the ridge they were descending when four of them fell.

Watch

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